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It’s a good idea to talk to your neighbours before you start any work to avoid confusion along the way. But if the fence is definitely your responsibility and on your property, there’s no legal obligation to notify them. It’s also a myth that you need to erect a fence with the flush side without posts facing your neighbour’s property.

With summer comes a lot of lawn challenges - from sod webworms, chinch bugs, nutsedge to drought stress, diseases and lots more. A lot of people find it hard to tell what’s happening to their lawn and probably assume it to be as a result of the summer stress and will definitely turn green again once the fall rolls in. This may be right in certain situations, but if you have fungi eating deep into your lawn, the green may not return. So, how exactly do you figure out if your lawn has diseases or pests? In this post, we’re going to provide you with a good insight into this to help you take the necessary treatment steps as soon as possible.

• Fungal structures. Fungi structures are not usually the easiest to spot as they vary in shape, colour and appearance. Fortunately, most fungi that appears on lawns will possess some type of structure which can be spotted when moisture is present. Once the night time dew sets in, you’ll be able to identify these strange growths in your lawn.
• Matted or Collapsed Areas. There is some sort of diseases that will make grass plant to wilt in little time. This, combined with fungi structures will make the grass look to have been matted in some areas.
• Discoloured or oily areas. Some areas are likely to show symptoms more than the others. While the unaffected turf may remain in its normal state, areas that are nearby may vary in colour due to the damage to the leaf tissue.
• Lesions or spots on leaves. Do you notice a certain damage pattern on the leaf blades of the grass plants? If yes, then your lawn is probably infected with a disease. Some of these spots may vary in size and colour.

1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
2. Build a timber frame to size.
3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.

1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.

Garden slabs are a joy to behold but only when done the right way. Well, the installation of paving slabs shouldn’t be exceed digging a little here and there, buying a small amount of mortar and pressing down the garden slab, right? Absolutely not! But we must admit how great it would have been if only it were that easy in real life. Let’s be honest, in reality, laying garden slabs does not only require you to prepare your sub-base painstakingly and mix your mortar using the appropriate materials, but you’d also have to work with accurate and precise paver placements to guarantee the patio’s longevity. Consequently, this happens to be a stressful and quite tricky challenge. If you lack the required confidence to pull this off, we’d recommend you hire the services of a seasoned professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and extra cash that may result from possible costly errors. In this guide, you’d gain more insight into the garden slabs laying process.

To get started, you’ll need sharp sand, cement, shovel, wheelbarrow, pointing trowel, rubber mallet, spirit level, jointing compound, hard-bristled brush and tarpaulin.

1. Mix a layer of mortar for each paver.
2. Apply the mixed mortar onto the sub base by using the trowel.
3. Slot the first flag in place and ensure not to stain the paver’s surface with the mixed mortar.
4. Using a rubber mallet, carefully tap the paver to the mortar bed. Once done, ensure the surface is even with a spirit level.
5. Take a measurement of the gap between the pavers
6. Repeat the above steps until all pavers have been perfectly laid
7. Leave the pavers to dry for about 1 to 2 days. You can protect it using a tarpaulin if concerned about rain.
8. Use the jointing compound to fill up the paver gaps to bind together the pavers. Ensure to wipe off any excess compound using the hard-bristled brush.

If there’s a fence dividing yours and your neighbour’s properties that needs maintaining or replacing, you’ll want to know who owns it. Start by checking your deeds to see if there’s an existing boundary agreement. If there isn’t, have a chat with them to see if you can come to an arrangement yourselves.

There is a variety of methods available to ensure that your paving drains properly, for example draining into a lawn or soakaway. Correct drainage of paving is a requirement for planning permission. See our guide on planning permission for paving for more information.