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SR services

9 review(s)
Offers services in YARM
Here at SR service's northeast Ltd we thrive on completing our customers projects to the highest standards ensuring custom...
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JS & SON

0 review(s)
Offers services in YARM
All About Me Precision. Punctuality. Commitment to excellence. I’m a leading Paving Contractor in the Teesside area. I p...
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LNB Services

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Offers services in YARM
Painting and decorating partnership, covering all aspects of decorating, interior and exterior work carried out..we also d...

Recent Landscaper Enquiries

28 Jan

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Gavin N

Start Date: Immediate

replacement heavy duty lap fence panel 6’x6’. damaged panel previously from ayton fencing are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many fence panels are you lo...

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25 Nov

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Jan T

Start Date: Immediate

1 metre fence on concrete driveway approximately 24 ft long. open to suggestions as to what type, ? are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many fence panels are...

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25 Sep

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: John R

Start Date: Immediate

looking to have 4 x panels of fencing supplied and installed to match current fence. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many fence panels are you looking for...

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05 Apr

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Stephen T

Start Date: Immediate

Composite fencing, 10-6ft panels, 12-5ft panels

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28 Feb

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Samantha G

Start Date: Immediate

Full fence removed and new fence put in place with back gate.

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01 Sep

Garden | Landscaping

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Patricia S

Start Date: Immediate

Removal of clumping bamboo hedge c

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09 Jul

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: ANTHONY S

Start Date: Immediate

need buy 6' posts timber, fill with concrete, the timber planks, 70' total, and 4' total distance and 4' posts timber with concrete. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: ...

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09 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: ANTHONY S

Start Date: Immediate

customer requested quotes for garden maintenance from a landscaper around yarm. they are considering a couple of projects at the moment.call anytime to arrange appointment to discuss. the information ...

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20 May

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Rabhat d

Start Date: Immediate

wooden fence, 1.8 m frames by 1.8 m high to cover approx 8m length to plug the gap at boundary of own and neighbour's garden are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace h...

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01 Feb

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Kay W

Start Date: Immediate

gravel beds raked and possibly topped up. existing plants transferred from pots into gravel beds and advice on new plants to add. some tidying of small none gravelled borders. are you the property ow...

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02 Dec

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: SIMON B

Start Date: Immediate

new 35m fence with concrete posts

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28 Sep

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Eric H

Start Date: Immediate

my vegetable garden, approx 25ft sq, needs weeds removing and digging over for winter, or rotavating..probably up to 1 days work. are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have...

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26 Jul

Garden | Landscaping

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Anita C

Start Date: Immediate

plant 10 shrubs in 12 in pot need hole twice as big. dispose of clay dug out are you the property owner: owner of the property garden type: front garden property type: other do you have a design: yes,...

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18 May

Garden | Landscaping

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Lindsey F

Start Date: Immediate

some top soil required for levelling and turf are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached garden type: back garden roughly the size of your garden: unsure do you hav...

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08 May

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Andrea M

Start Date: Immediate

2 to 3 fence posts re cementing in, panels look ok are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how many fence panels are you looking for: 1-2 panels what level of se...

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06 May

Fencing | Wooden

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Kay W

Start Date: Immediate

remove existing wooden gate . replace with a strong close board wooden gate app*** tall. will require posts hinges fastenings and bolt are you the property owner: owner of the property property type:...

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08 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Jackie M

Start Date: Immediate

2frontlawns and small back lawn cutting every 2 weeks and treating when required are you the property owner: owner garden type: back garden, front garden, side garden work required: other current sta...

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06 Mar

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Linda C

Start Date: Immediate

mower front and back lawn every fortnight tidy front border are you the property owner: owner property type: other do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden, front garden work requir...

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30 Sep

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Jonathan H

Start Date: Immediate

hi i have 2 grass fields i would like a quote on to be cut there approx 3 acres each field! are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: extra large garden garden type: bac...

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25 Mar

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Yarm - TS15

Enquiry from: Paul S

Start Date: Immediate

Small lawn to cut. Hedges to trim and general keep tidy

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How much do Landscaper services cost?

How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2025 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?

Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.

View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper advice

The average price
of a Landscaper in Yarm is:

£1,478

Landscaper job Landscaper cost in 2025
Wooden fencing in Yarm £1,125-£1,725
Landscaping in Yarm £2,250-£3,450
Garden maintenance and upkeep in Yarm £188-£288
Wooden decking in Yarm £1,125-£1,725
Artificial Grass in Yarm £3,000-£4,600
Garden shed in Yarm £450-£690
Garden lighting in Yarm £320-£480
Driveway repair in Yarm £1,520-£2,280
Lawn Care in Yarm £130-£200

Related Landscaper searches in Yarm

Landscaper FAQs

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
When is the best time to start a lawn renovation?

First and foremost, to save your time and money when it comes to lawn renovation, there’s a huge need to figure out why the lawn isn’t doing well in the first place. A lot of times, when changes are made to the basic lawn care practices, cultural practices or site conditions, any need for a renovation would be thrown out the window as the lawn would be given a new life with good health and vigour. However, if you feel renovation is the best option for your lawn, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the best time to start a lawn renovation to help put you on the right path. Let’s take a look!

There are two times during the year that are most suitable for lawn renovation. Firstly, the best time for renovation of a lawn is usually from mid-August to mid-September. Secondly, another great time to achieve this goal is normally during early spring as the lawn is starting to turn green and grow.

So, when do you consider lawn renovation?

  • When the quality of the lawn is simply poor and unacceptable.
  • During the introduction of lower maintenance turf varieties into an existing lawn.
  • When 30% to 50% of the lawn is dead or is experiencing sparse growth which may be due to several factors like drought and heat, low soil fertility, insect damage, moderate soil compaction and more.
  • When the lawn is soft and spongy will walking across. Plus, if it also responds terribly to the application of fertilizer and water.
  • When grassy weeds or broad-leaved weeds covers about 30 to 40 percent of the lawn area with insufficient turf cover to fill in the bare areas once the weed removal is done.
How to lay artificial grass on concrete?

Laying artificial grass on concrete needs a slightly different approach to if you’re installing it over soil. The good news is that it’s much less labour intensive, as you don’t need to do any digging or levelling.

Ideally, your concrete base should be in good condition, and have an adequate fall on it to provide efficient drainage. If it doesn’t, you might have to do some repair work or drill some drainage holes first.

When you’re ready to start, begin by cleaning your concrete base. Use a jet wash or a hose and brush to dislodge and disperse any dirt or plant growth. Once it’s clean, leave it to dry completely.

Then, you need to fit an underlay - usually it’s made of foam. This will provide padding to make your artificial grass softer and more comfortable to walk on. It will also help to level out any slopes on uneven parts on the concrete. Make sure it’s a good-quality underlay that’s permeable – if it’s not, you could end up with damp artificial grass and nasty smells as it will hold moisture. Roll out the underlay and cut it to shape, taping any separate sections together.

Next, use an adhesive to secure the underlay to your concrete. Make sure you leave gaps in the adhesive to allow water to drain off easily. Leave the glue to dry, then you can start laying your grass.

Roll out your grass like you did with your underlay, cutting it to shape and joining any separate sections together with artificial grass tape. Then glue the grass to the underlay. Leave it dry, give the grass a brush, and it’ll be ready to use!

How much is artificial grass?
How much artificial grass costs depends on the quality of grass you choose, how big the area to be covered is, and whether you choose to have it installed or do it yourself. On average, you should expect to pay between £25 and £70 per m2 to have artificial grass installed by a professional. That means a 30m2 artificial lawn would cost between £750 and £2,100. So what will affect how much artificial grass costs? The quality of the artificial grass The quality of the artificial turf makes a big difference to the price. The lower end of the price range might not be quite right for a garden, since they often look extremely fake, and won’t last as long. Somewhere in the middle of the range should give you a good, long-lasting look without breaking the bank. Quality of the sub-base If you’re laying artificial grass on an existing lawn, this will need to be dug up to level out the area and add a weed-resistant membrane, creating what's called a sub-base. On average, the materials will cost £247 to make a sub-base. Whether you’ll need waste removal If you’re digging up the existing lawn or removing paving slabs to create a new sub-base, you might need a skip. A typical 4-yard skip will set you back around £220. Whether you’re doing DIY If you fancy having a go at laying your own artificial grass, you’ll of course save on labour costs. You’ll need to weigh up the benefits of DIY against the risks that the finish might not look as good or the grass might not last as long. But if you choose an average-quality artificial grass at £15 per m2, 30m2 of artificial grass will cost £450 not including the underlay as well as joining tape and adhesive.

How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
Do I need planning permission for fences?

Not if they are under 1 metre high if next to a road or 2 metres high elsewhere. It’s always recommended to check with your neighbours and the local authority if you are unsure. Other restrictions may apply, for example if a fence might impact driver visibility on nearby roads.

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