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Verified ProOver 20 Reviews

Beech Contractors

37 review(s)
Offers services in WIGSTON
Beach contractors have paved and resurfaced everything from championship golf courses to domestic driveways as a team we p...
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M R Contractors

31 review(s)
Offers services in WIGSTON
M R Contractors has grown to become one of the most respected paving contractors in the area. Our attention to detail, unr...
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S & Q Driveways

27 review(s)
Offers services in WIGSTON
At S & Q driveways we can guarantee you'll be a happy custumer
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FWELECTRICS

35 review(s)
Offers services in WIGSTON
We are local electrical experts who offer an efficient and reliable service at competitive prices and specialise in the in...
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We are a company that cover all aspects of the construction industry. Here to provide all customers with the best possible...

Recent Landscaper Enquiries

14 Mar

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Kavita C

Start Date: Immediate

hello, we have a small-medium grassy area in our back garden, and smaller grassy areas at the front of our house. there are also some larger shrubs/hedges at the front. on a regular basis (march-sept)...

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31 Mar

Garden | Decking

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Ray D

Start Date: Immediate

repair decking structure and lsy new floor are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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28 Jul

Driveway Repair

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Mark G

Start Date: Immediate

Repair of top half of driveway because hippo lorry damaged it thanks I don’t want it patched I want the whole top of driveway done ok

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07 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Mandy F

Start Date: Immediate

grass mowing to back and front garden and some weeding. looking for someone regularly every 2 weeks are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached do you have a: med...

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24 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Ian R

Start Date: Immediate

Lawn Care Lead Lawn Care Lead Lawn Care Lead

i would like some ivy trimming are you the property owner: owner property type: terrace do you have a: small garden garden type: back garden work required: hedges current state of garden: i don’t k...

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20 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Rasaiya S

Start Date: Immediate

I would like the grass to be mowed in my garden

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02 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Kam M

Start Date: Immediate

i need my lawn to mowed regularly together with some weeding. are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden, front garden work re...

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02 Mar

Garden | Landscaping

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Brian T

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Pegola Decking

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25 Feb

Garden | Decking

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Brian T

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Pegola Decking

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21 Feb

Garden | Landscaping

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Brian T

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Pegola Decking

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21 Feb

Fencing | Wooden

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Brian T

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Pegola Decking

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21 Feb

Garden | Decking

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Brian T

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Pegola Decking

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31 Jan

Garden | Decking

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Vishal D

Start Date: Immediate

hi, we would like our garden landscaped. it’s currently empty as the home is a new build. are you the property owner: owner property type: detached garden type: back garden work required: planting,...

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07 Sep

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Aisha T

Start Date: Immediate

grass cutting for medium sized garden are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden work required: lawn/turfing curre...

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11 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Paul B

Start Date: Immediate

edges of grass cutting back front &back are you the property owner: owner property type: terrace do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden, front garden work required: path current st...

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02 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Shaquila P

Start Date: Immediate

lawn cut hedge need a good cutting weeding in the front yard are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garde...

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28 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Natalie A

Start Date: Immediate

currently have gravel on the road side but would like a hedge. i require someone to look at the area to see if the works can be carried out and a quote for the work to be completed. property type: com...

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10 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Ash K

Start Date: Immediate

lawn mowing, hedges trimmed & a tree cut back a bit. front garden bush trimmed & weeding the pathway are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: small garden garden ...

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01 Jun

Fencing | Wooden

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Sam H

Start Date: Immediate

we need turf laying, some raised flower beds put in, some plants put in, a new gate put on and a fence painted, along with sundry other jobs are you the property owner: owner property type: terrace do...

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08 May

Fencing | Wooden

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Rebecca H

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Patio area and artificial grass in rear garden and fencing to the front

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How much do Landscaper services cost?

How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2025 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?

Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.

View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper advice

The average price
of a Landscaper in Wigston is:

£1,506

Landscaper job Landscaper cost in 2025
Wooden fencing in Wigston £613-£2,863
Landscaping in Wigston £1,875-£9,225
Garden maintenance and upkeep in Wigston £188-£288
Wooden decking in Wigston £663-£1,863
Artificial Grass in Wigston £1,550-£3,050
Garden shed in Wigston £325-£795
Garden lighting in Wigston £320-£480
Driveway repair in Wigston £690-£1,460
Lawn Care in Wigston £130-£200

Related Landscaper searches in Wigston

Landscaper FAQs

how to repair a patio?

A patio is an outdoor space which can be used for a variety of stuffs which includes fun time with family and friends, reading time or just relaxing as the fresh breeze blows. With all these benefits and more, it’s becomes more obvious that there’s a need to keep your patio in a tip top condition at all times. If otherwise, you may not be able to enjoy your patio to your satisfaction and probably, for as long as you would want. You simply have to provide it with a regular maintenance which involves inspecting and identifying the damages that needs to be repaired before it gets out of hand. Fortunately, the minor repairs can be done by yourself if you’re confident enough. However, for bigger damages it’s advisable to call in a professional for help. In this article, we’ll take you through the patio reparation process.

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing the problem piece gently and carefully. If there’s a piece you think can still be useful, store it in the re-use pile or you can start a new one. Once you’re done removing the pieces, the next thing to do would be to start removing anything that’s unwanted from the damaged area like debris, unwanted soil etc, and start sand fitting with some fresh sand. This should be levelled out to ensure there’s no bumps.

✓ With the sand down, you can start by putting the pieces back in together. This should be done gently to avoid any further damage. Do this until your patio

How can I tell if my lawn has diseases or pests?

With summer comes a lot of lawn challenges - from sod webworms, chinch bugs, nutsedge to drought stress, diseases and lots more. A lot of people find it hard to tell what’s happening to their lawn and probably assume it to be as a result of the summer stress and will definitely turn green again once the fall rolls in. This may be right in certain situations, but if you have fungi eating deep into your lawn, the green may not return. So, how exactly do you figure out if your lawn has diseases or pests? In this post, we’re going to provide you with a good insight into this to help you take the necessary treatment steps as soon as possible.

  • Fungal structures. Fungi structures are not usually the easiest to spot as they vary in shape, colour and appearance. Fortunately, most fungi that appears on lawns will possess some type of structure which can be spotted when moisture is present. Once the night time dew sets in, you’ll be able to identify these strange growths in your lawn.
  • Matted or Collapsed Areas. There is some sort of diseases that will make grass plant to wilt in little time. This, combined with fungi structures will make the grass look to have been matted in some areas.
  • Discoloured or oily areas. Some areas are likely to show symptoms more than the others. While the unaffected turf may remain in its normal state, areas that are nearby may vary in colour due to the damage to the leaf tissue.
  • Lesions or spots on leaves. Do you notice a certain damage pattern on the leaf blades of the grass plants? If yes, then your lawn is probably infected with a disease. Some of these spots may vary in size and colour.
How do I get rid of moss, mushrooms and weeds in my lawn?

Moss, mushrooms and weeds are all problems that many homeowners face on their lawns. Luckily, with a bit of maintenance, there are ways you can get rid of these unwanted organisms and prevent them from coming back. Getting rid of moss A simple way to remove moss from your lawn is by scarification. This basically means that you vigorously rake your lawn, but only do this in the autumn when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. However, you can also use specific weedkillers to control moss on your lawn, and most of these should be applied when the moss is actively growing. Apply in fine weather by hand or with a push-along spreader, making sure not to apply too much as you could kill off the grass too. Check the instructions, as some will require watering after 48 hours if it’s not rained. Then, get into a scarification routine to help prevent moss growth. Removing mushrooms from your lawn If you’ve got mushrooms in your lawn, it usually means that your lawn is damp and shaded, so it never dries out, and is organic waste-rich. There could be a drainage problem with your lawn that is encouraging mushroom growth, so it’s important to investigate why the mushrooms are growing to prevent them from returning once you’ve removed them. To get rid of mushrooms in your lawn, make sure you scarify your lawn and get rid of all the moss, thatch and dead grass that comes up. If you leave it, this is heaven for mushrooms to grow in. If your lawn is shaded, try to prune and thin surrounding trees to offer it more light. If you do all of these things, it will prevent mushrooms from growing in the future, and then it might be worth using a fungicide to get rid of the mushrooms that are there. But if you just do this step, it’s likely the mushrooms will just come back. How to get rid of weeds To get rid of weeds from your lawn, you can use selective weedkillers that will just kill the weeds and leave your grass alone. But if you’d rather not use weedkiller, you can get rid of weeds from your lawn manually. For large, deep-rooted weeds like dandelions or plantains, use a trowel to lever them out, ensuring that you get the whole plant including its roots. Then use compost to fill the hole it leaves behind, pushing it deeply into the hole. Sprinkle with fresh grass seed, cover with extra compost and water. Make sure you keep the area damp until the seed has germinated. To prevent moss, mushrooms or weeds from returning, the best things to do are:

  • Scarify your lawn in the autumn, and lightly in the spring if necessary
  • Seed your lawn in the autumn if you need to
  • Try to keep trees trimmed and pruned as much as possible to reduce shade
  • Use a pre-emergent weedkiller in the spring to catch them before they grow and handpick any that come through
  • Mow your lawn regularly in the spring and summer, being careful not to remove more than a third of grass at a time, then before winter give it one last mow and a fertilisation treatment

how to build garden steps

Chances are at some point you’d probably given a though about how steps would fit in perfectly in your garden, except of course, your yard and garden is flat. Adding steps and gardens makes it a lot easier to get around your yard while also enhancing its curb appeal. In order to avoid the cost of hiring a professional to get the task done, you might be tempted to make it a DIY task. However, if you lack the required skill and confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you call in a professional so as to avoid costly errors. In this post, we’re going to take you through the garden steps building process. Let’s take a look!

  1. Measure the vertical height of the slope by marking it with two parallel lines. Once done, proceed by connecting a string line to the slope’s top and hold it in a horizontal way, take a measurement of the flight’s length and breadth. Divide the measurement by 200mm to get the number of steps that’ll be required. Then proceed to divide the number by the height to identify the depth of each step.
  2. Working downwards from the flight’s top, dig the step shapes and also dig a shallow trench and install a concrete foundation.
  3. Enable the foundation to harden by leaving it for about 48 hours, then install two courses of bricks on the concrete strip and use gravel to backfill.
  4. With the help of a trowel, apply mortar to the top of the brickwork. Place the first slab on the mortar bed and press down. Then, make use of a spirit level to make sure that the steps are level.
  5. On the back edge of the first tread, you should proceed to build the second rise, backfill and install the slab to form the second tread – just like the previous step. Repeat this process until you’ve gotten to the top of the flight.
How to build a fence?

The best way to build a fence depends on what style it is, as different types have different components. However, fencing made up of posts and panels is pretty common. To put this up, you’ll need to start by measuring out and digging holes for your fence posts. Then you’ll need to fit the panels between them and use concrete to secure the posts in the ground.

When is the best time to start a lawn renovation?

First and foremost, to save your time and money when it comes to lawn renovation, there’s a huge need to figure out why the lawn isn’t doing well in the first place. A lot of times, when changes are made to the basic lawn care practices, cultural practices or site conditions, any need for a renovation would be thrown out the window as the lawn would be given a new life with good health and vigour. However, if you feel renovation is the best option for your lawn, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the best time to start a lawn renovation to help put you on the right path. Let’s take a look!

There are two times during the year that are most suitable for lawn renovation. Firstly, the best time for renovation of a lawn is usually from mid-August to mid-September. Secondly, another great time to achieve this goal is normally during early spring as the lawn is starting to turn green and grow.

So, when do you consider lawn renovation?

  • When the quality of the lawn is simply poor and unacceptable.
  • During the introduction of lower maintenance turf varieties into an existing lawn.
  • When 30% to 50% of the lawn is dead or is experiencing sparse growth which may be due to several factors like drought and heat, low soil fertility, insect damage, moderate soil compaction and more.
  • When the lawn is soft and spongy will walking across. Plus, if it also responds terribly to the application of fertilizer and water.
  • When grassy weeds or broad-leaved weeds covers about 30 to 40 percent of the lawn area with insufficient turf cover to fill in the bare areas once the weed removal is done.
How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.

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