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Verified ProOver 50 Reviews

JM Fencing and Landscaping

89 review(s)
Offers services in CRANBROOK
Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
Verified Pro
Towergate Builders & Developers has been a trusted name in the construction and development industry for over 30 years, de...
Verified ProOver 20 Reviews

Thomas Roof Restoration

25 review(s)
Offers services in CRANBROOK
Thomas Roof Restoration are proud to work on your property as if it were their own. Based in Canterbury, covering Kent, So...
Verified Pro

Stonehaven Landscapes

2 review(s)
Offers services in CRANBROOK
At stonehaven building and landscapes we take pride in every job we do. We strive to understand what you need and to achie...
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Controlled Airflow Services

0 review(s)
Offers services in CRANBROOK
We are a small, family run business with 10 years experience in the industry and specialise in all aspects of air conditio...

Recent Landscaper Enquiries

08 May

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Joyce S

Start Date: Immediate

removal of 2 box hedges and replaced with fencing. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how many fence panels are you looking for: 5+ panels what level of se...

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03 Apr

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Sue E

Start Date: Immediate

hello we're looking to have post and rail fencing around part of the natural pond in the garden, to match existing field fence. hoping you can help with this. thank you. are you the property owner: ow...

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26 Feb

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN18

Enquiry from: Sheryl G

Start Date: Immediate

Hi you done part of a fence and gate was wondering how much it would cost for you to complete the rest by road side. Thanks

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09 Feb

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Annie S

Start Date: Immediate

Looking to god proof the fencing you had done for this house. Would love to discuss what can be done as at the moment there near to no privacy at the back and certainly no good for our dog. Happy to m...

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03 Feb

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Andy a

Start Date: Immediate

post and rail fencing to replace existing.

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07 Jan

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Simon E

Start Date: Immediate

Quote per metre chestnut post and rail fencing

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30 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Kay P

Start Date: Immediate

clearance of neglected garden near cranbrook and trimming, tidying small tw garden.

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01 Jun

Garden | Decking

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Keith A

Start Date: Immediate

customer in the cranbrook area made an enquiry a couple of projects including wooden decking.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the p...

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01 Jun

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Keith A

Start Date: Immediate

about 50m of 2m ht boundary fencing, round posts with wicker panels inbetwen. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace how many fence panels are you looking for: 5+ pa...

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09 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Kieran F

Start Date: Immediate

someone to cut my lawn please - about 1 acre

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08 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Phil B

Start Date: Immediate

hello - we’re looking for some initial garden clearance and maintenance work with some landscaping to follow. would be interested to understand if you have availability and an idea of potential cost...

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19 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN18

Enquiry from: Anna E

Start Date: Immediate

grass cutting (ride on mower and strimmers) 3 man job for 1 acre - 1/2 acre lawn 1/2 acre strim. please call asap for a chat. looking to get work done in the next 7 days. are you the property owner...

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14 Mar

Fencing | Wooden

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Sandi B

Start Date: Immediate

Hi we need a quote for a garden fence, not the ready made panels but where you put up tge frame and add the individual slats. Also, what is your availability. Many thanks. Sandi

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08 Feb

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN18

Enquiry from: Fraser C

Start Date: Immediate

Hedge trimming Lawn cutting Drive/decking cleaning General garden maintenance Clearance

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05 Dec

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Mark O

Start Date: Immediate

approximately 60ft length of 10ft high hedge bordering garden and public footpath. needs to be reduced to approximately 8ft high and sides trimmed are you the property owner: owner property type: semi...

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08 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN18

Enquiry from: Linda C

Start Date: Immediate

Lawn Care Lead Lawn Care Lead Lawn Care Lead Lawn Care Lead Lawn Care Lead

part time gardening- keeping beds maintains trimming weeding and occasional mowing are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: large garden garden type: back garden, front...

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21 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Peter S

Start Date: Immediate

thinning and trimming box hedges are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: large garden garden type: back garden work required: hedges current state of garden: the garde...

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04 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: David S

Start Date: Immediate

remedial work on overgrown cemetery plot, followed by regular maintenance work. are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: other do you have a: small garden garden type: side garden...

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12 Nov

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN18

Enquiry from: Maggie J

Start Date: Immediate

general maintenance, pruning, clearing, weeding, leaf clearing, some planting etc. no need for lawn mowing unless away as we do it on sit on mower. large garden. regular contract, large garden. are ...

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25 Sep

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Cranbrook - TN17

Enquiry from: Brian G

Start Date: Immediate

general gardening help & advice are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: large garden garden type: back garden work required: planting, hedges, pond/water features cur...

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How much do Landscaper services cost?

How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2024 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?

Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.

View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper advice

The average price
of a Landscaper in Cranbrook is:

£1,478

Landscaper job Landscaper cost in 2024
Wooden fencing in Cranbrook £1,125-£1,725
Landscaping in Cranbrook £2,250-£3,450
Garden maintenance and upkeep in Cranbrook £188-£288
Wooden decking in Cranbrook £1,125-£1,725
Artificial Grass in Cranbrook £3,000-£4,600
Garden shed in Cranbrook £450-£690
Garden lighting in Cranbrook £320-£480
Driveway repair in Cranbrook £1,520-£2,280
Lawn Care in Cranbrook £130-£200

Related Landscaper searches in Cranbrook

Landscaper FAQs

How much does fencing cost?

The most basic fencing starts at about £27 per panel. But if you want something that’s more decorative and better quality, expect to budget £30-£40 per panel.If you choose to get a professional to help you put up your fencing, they’ll probably be able to get your panels at a cheaper rate.

How to overseed a lawn?

Overseeding your lawn is an essential part of keeping your lawn looking its best. It’s also known as reseeding, and helps to repair damaged areas that might have been caused by a harsh summer or winter. It’s best to overseed your lawn during the spring or autumn, when the temperature is mild but there’s still a fair amount of rainy days to help the grass seed grow. To prepare your lawn for overseeding, you should do the following things around 1-2 weeks beforehand:

  • Weed the lawn by hand or using a weedkiller (make sure you leave enough time to do this according to the instructions)
  • Remove stones and large twigs
  • Scarify your lawn to remove moss and loosen soil
  • Fertilise the soil with a quick-release fertiliser

Once you’ve taken these steps, you’re ready to start overseeding your lawn.

  1. Mow your lawn to around 25mm in length.
  2. Water the soil so it’s moist but not too damp.
  3. Sprinkle your new grass seed evenly over the lawn, but apply more in patchy or thin areas. Generally gardeners say to use 35g per square metre, but up to 50g on thin areas.

When you’re finished, give your lawn a final water, and do this every day until the new grass is established – particularly if it’s not rained. Just make sure you don’t overwater it. It’s also a good idea not to walk on your lawn for around 2-3 weeks after you’ve overseeded it.

How can I tell if my lawn has diseases or pests?

With summer comes a lot of lawn challenges - from sod webworms, chinch bugs, nutsedge to drought stress, diseases and lots more. A lot of people find it hard to tell what’s happening to their lawn and probably assume it to be as a result of the summer stress and will definitely turn green again once the fall rolls in. This may be right in certain situations, but if you have fungi eating deep into your lawn, the green may not return. So, how exactly do you figure out if your lawn has diseases or pests? In this post, we’re going to provide you with a good insight into this to help you take the necessary treatment steps as soon as possible.

  • Fungal structures. Fungi structures are not usually the easiest to spot as they vary in shape, colour and appearance. Fortunately, most fungi that appears on lawns will possess some type of structure which can be spotted when moisture is present. Once the night time dew sets in, you’ll be able to identify these strange growths in your lawn.
  • Matted or Collapsed Areas. There is some sort of diseases that will make grass plant to wilt in little time. This, combined with fungi structures will make the grass look to have been matted in some areas.
  • Discoloured or oily areas. Some areas are likely to show symptoms more than the others. While the unaffected turf may remain in its normal state, areas that are nearby may vary in colour due to the damage to the leaf tissue.
  • Lesions or spots on leaves. Do you notice a certain damage pattern on the leaf blades of the grass plants? If yes, then your lawn is probably infected with a disease. Some of these spots may vary in size and colour.
Will my patio need a lot of maintenance?

Patios do not require lots of maintenance. They will only need occasional cleaning to make sure that the material keeps its original appearance. It's always best to clean your patio with a pressure washer and occasionally tap each slab or brick just to check the sand underneath hasn't washed away.

How do I aerate my lawn?

Aeration, like scarification, is another vital step to keeping your lawn looking healthy and vibrant. It involves making small holes in the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to get into the grass roots, helping them to grow deeply, and produce a much stronger lawn. It also helps to relieve compaction from the soil, which stops nutrients and air from circulating. But how do you aerate your lawn?

Before you start to aerate your lawn, it’s a good idea to scarify it first to get rid of any moss, dead grass and thatch. This involves vigorously raking your lawn to get all the organic matter up, then transferring it to your compost heap or disposing of it. Light scarification is best in the spring but you can heavily scarify it in the autumn.

If you’ve got a small lawn, you can use a hand-held hollow tine aerator or even a normal garden fork. Dig deep into your lawn’s surface with the fork, or push the aerator into the ground which will pull plugs, or cores, of soil out of the ground to create air holes. You can let the cores dry and then go over them with a lawn mower or rake to spread them evenly across your lawn. This will recycle all the nutrients in those parts of the soil and stimulate bacterial activity to break down unwanted thatch. Don’t leave them, because they will make your lawn look bumpy over time.

If you’ve got a larger lawn, you might find it easier to see if you can hire a petrol aerator. But there are also rolling aerators that have spikes on a cylinder and you just push along, or even aerator sandals that you can wear and just go to town on your grass!

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
how to repair asphalt driveway depressions?

When your driveway is suffering from depression, it becomes unsafe for driving (a danger zone) and ugly - no homeowner wants that! Unfortunately, most driveways won’t hold flat for long as they tend to develop cracks and potholes pretty quickly. Here, we are going to take you through how to fill asphalt driveways’ depression so as to ensure the sinkholes in your driveway poses no threat to you or your loved ones, while also beautifying your property. The approach to be used depends on the intensity of the depression. If its only a few cracks and holes, this can easily be repaired with some equipment. But if otherwise is the case, then calling a reliable professional will be your best bet. In this article, we’ll show you how to repair dips in your asphalt driveway relatively quickly.

✓ Pick a date with warm and sunny weather. This is because if you work in a cold weather, chances are the materials will freeze and hence, unusable. So find a day when the temperature will over 50 degrees Fahrenheit and below 80 degrees Celsius and when there would be no rain. We’ll advise a day between May to October.

✓ Prepare the area. Remove all loose stones, soil, dirt as well as vegetation from the holes. Once done, you can then proceed to washing the area with a pressure washer or sweep with a broom.

✓ Apply a thin mixture of asphalt to the area. Use a flat stirring stick to coat the low driveway area with a thin mixture of asphalt.

✓ Tamp the asphalt repair mix. Purchase the right kind of asphalt to repair the driveway. Fine aggregate asphalt mixture is more suited to filling small holes, whereas the coarse aggregate is more suited to filling larger holes. Apply layers ( about 2 inches each time) of the asphalt repair mix to the sunken area and use a shovel to give it a smooth finish. Once done, simply make the area smooth and protect it with a piece of plywood. Do not walk or drive on the area for a couple of days.

Landscaper help and advice

Energy-Saving Tips for Home Improvements: Your Ultimate Guide Published: 28/09/2023 Who doesn’t love to save money, especially when it comes to running a home? Every homeowner has been there: looking at the energy bill and ... Read this article
Is it Worth Installing Solar Panels in the UK? Published: 29/04/2023 Solar panels are devices that convert sunlight into electricity by the photovoltaic (PV) effect. In recent years, solar energy has become an increasingly popular source ... Read this article
Solar Panel Maintenance: Tips and Tricks Published: 18/04/2023 Solar panels are a great way to generate renewable energy and reduce your electricity bills. However, just like any other technology, they require regular maintenance ... Read this article

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