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How To Repair A Pothole In Gravel Driveways

When the integrity of your gravel driveway is impaired not only does it have a negative impact on the curb appeal of your property, but also makes your driveway a danger zone. If your driveway needs to be repaired, you’d simply have to grab the bull by the horn and get it done - the sooner, the better to avoid the problem getting worse and to have your beautiful gravel driveway back as soon as possible.

The major cause of potholes in driveways is usually water, when it gets trapped beneath the surface of the driveway. Therefore, you may also want to enhance the drainage in the area as part of your repair. The repair process is quite simple for confident do-it-yourselfers, but if otherwise, then calling in a reliable professional will save you some time and extra money that can result from possible errors. So how do you repair gravel driveway potholes?

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing all forms of debris from the pothole. To achieve this, you can rake, shovel or brush the loose stones, soil and other debris from the pothole.

✓ Fill the pot hole. Make use of a coarse gravel to fill up the pothole to a depth of about 3 inches beneath the driveway’s level. Upon the filling, simply tamp down the coarse gravel using a commercial tamper or any available homemade option. Once done, the final 3 inches to the surface of the gravel driveway should then be filled up with gravel which perfectly matches the colour and texture of the remaining driveway.

✓ Compact the patch. To achieve this in an easy and fast way, simply run your car’s wheel up and down over the repaired spot gently a couple of times. This will be enough to compact the patch and seal the pothole.

First and foremost, to save your time and money when it comes to lawn renovation, there’s a huge need to figure out why the lawn isn’t doing well in the first place. A lot of times, when changes are made to the basic lawn care practices, cultural practices or site conditions, any need for a renovation would be thrown out the window as the lawn would be given a new life with good health and vigour. However, if you feel renovation is the best option for your lawn, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the best time to start a lawn renovation to help put you on the right path. Let’s take a look!

There are two times during the year that are most suitable for lawn renovation. Firstly, the best time for renovation of a lawn is usually from mid-August to mid-September. Secondly, another great time to achieve this goal is normally during early spring as the lawn is starting to turn green and grow.

So, when do you consider lawn renovation?

• When the quality of the lawn is simply poor and unacceptable.
• During the introduction of lower maintenance turf varieties into an existing lawn.
• When 30% to 50% of the lawn is dead or is experiencing sparse growth which may be due to several factors like drought and heat, low soil fertility, insect damage, moderate soil compaction and more.
• When the lawn is soft and spongy will walking across. Plus, if it also responds terribly to the application of fertilizer and water.
• When grassy weeds or broad-leaved weeds covers about 30 to 40 percent of the lawn area with insufficient turf cover to fill in the bare areas once the weed removal is done.

1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
2. Build a timber frame to size.
3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.

• Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
• Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
• Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth

• Step treads (the actual step themselves)
• Step risers
• Coach screws
• Deck screws
• Saw
• Drill

1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

How To Draw A Garden Landscaping Plan

Are you thinking about constructing a new garden landscape? Do you have an existing one but forgot where you planted those tulip bulbs the previous autumn? Or perhaps you’re just trying to identify the exact spot where you cut back that clump of wilted foxglove, without mistakenly digging it up. For everything to be much easier when it comes to a garden landscape, it’s always a wise decision to draw a garden landscaping plan.

To get started, let’s take a look at the materials you’ll need to acquire. These includes a piece of white paper on which the existing elements on your garden will be plotted, a piece of tracing paper and tape to give options for planned additions, a pencil, an eraser as well as a measuring tape.

For more accuracy while drawing your plan, you’ll need to measure the garden’s distances, perimeter, the existing garden beds size as well as the trees’ and shrubs’ shape and size.

• Write down the measurements taken on the scrap paper.

• Assuming it’s a medium sized backyard garden that’s 18 feet wide, we allocated a scale of 3 feet to equal an inch.

• Using a piece of white paper (could be graph if you wish) and a pencil, carefully outline the perimeter of the space. Once done, you can then sketch in the existing plants as well as other special features on the space (features that are of a permanent nature like trees, fences and paths).

• Hold a piece of tracing paper and tape in on top. Then you can sketch out the plants you wish to add to fill in the spaces in the garden on the tracing paper.

How Much To Landscape A Garden?

Also known as a nation of gardeners, the UK is filled with individuals who take their outdoors seriously. As a result, it’s little surprise many people over here employ the services of expert landscape gardeners to help out with various tasks such as decking, building patios, ponds and reshaping their gardens to keep them in a top condition and make them a lot more useful. However, before you get started with your landscape gardening task, you’d like to figure out a estimate of the amount it’s going to cost. Let’s have a look!

Providing an accurate assessment of a generic landscape gardening project is almost impossible as gardens are all unique. A total refurbishment of a big garden will definitely run into thousands of pounds even before accounting for essential items like garden furnitures and planting. We’ll break them down to smaller elements of landscape gardening and give a rough estimate of the cost.

Firstly, a patio is an effective means of increasing your garden’s usability whose cost varies depending on the materials used. Generally, a patio will cost within the range of £70 to £90. This price may be higher in areas with greater demands like London.

A decking also serves the same purposes as a patio or paved area. However, it’s usually made of wood which delivers a much more natural feel perfect for the garden. The cost of decking varies largely depending on the wood incorporated. For instance, if you opt for a cheaper wood such as pine, the cost you can expect to pay would be within the range of 60 pounds to 80 pounds per square metre. However, for more quality and durable hardwood, you’ll have to pay about 200 pounds per square metre or more.

A patio is an outdoor space which can be used for a variety of stuffs which includes fun time with family and friends, reading time or just relaxing as the fresh breeze blows. With all these benefits and more, it’s becomes more obvious that there’s a need to keep your patio in a tip top condition at all times. If otherwise, you may not be able to enjoy your patio to your satisfaction and probably, for as long as you would want. You simply have to provide it with a regular maintenance which involves inspecting and identifying the damages that needs to be repaired before it gets out of hand. Fortunately, the minor repairs can be done by yourself if you’re confident enough. However, for bigger damages it’s advisable to call in a professional for help. In this article, we’ll take you through the patio reparation process.

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing the problem piece gently and carefully. If there’s a piece you think can still be useful, store it in the re-use pile or you can start a new one. Once you’re done removing the pieces, the next thing to do would be to start removing anything that’s unwanted from the damaged area like debris, unwanted soil etc, and start sand fitting with some fresh sand. This should be levelled out to ensure there’s no bumps.

✓ With the sand down, you can start by putting the pieces back in together. This should be done gently to avoid any further damage. Do this until your patio

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