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Atomus Electrical

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Offers services in WINDERMERE
Qualified Electrician, Army veteran after 23 years service. Safety focused, will provide you with a service of the highest...
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Phase 3 Electrical

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Offers services in WINDERMERE
Phase 3 Electrical Installations Ltd is a family owned NICEIC Approved Contractor based in Thornton-Cleveleys, Lancashire....
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JPW property care

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Offers services in WINDERMERE
We are a Family run business . With over 35 years experience. Between us with our small team. we pride ourselves on our ho...
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M6 Flooring

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M6 Flooring Ltd is a family business that fits and restores wooden flooring and vinyl flooring, we also fit wood and vinyl...
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Jd paving

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My names John from JD PAVING we are a proud family run business and got over 50+ experience in the landscaping industry we...
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Banks Flooring Solutions

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Offers services in WINDERMERE
Here at Banks Flooring Solutions, we offer flooring products such as luxury vinyl tile, vinyl, cushion floor vinyl, carpet...

Recent Landscaper Enquiries

18 Jul

Fencing | Wooden

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Paul M

Start Date: Immediate

We need a fence panel in the same style as our existing ones.

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24 Jan

Fencing | Wooden

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Becky H

Start Date: Immediate

we have around 15 acres of land that have, up until now, been used as grazing for sheep. we would like to put our land to better use by creating a more diverse landscape to enhance the wildlife. there...

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08 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Ian T

Start Date: Immediate

hedge cutting and annuel trim are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: small garden garden type: back garden work required: hedges current state of garden: the garden ...

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11 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Robert G

Start Date: Immediate

Lawn Care Lead

pond was damaged in storm arwen. needs restoring under insurance are you the property owner: owner property type: terrace garden type: back garden work required: pond/water features current state o...

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10 Nov

Fencing | Wooden

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Derrick H

Start Date: Immediate

installation of double gates by building stanchions and timber gate and infill to left are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many fence panels are you looking f...

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20 Aug

Garden | Landscaping

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Anne S

Start Date: Immediate

Clearing perimeter of a paddock and part of separate garden. and planting hedgerow. Bring down 3 smaller trees. It will require a site visit.

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24 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Andrea B

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: detached work description: general maintenance/clearance. would prefer an hourly rate rather than quote for ...

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22 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Kate B

Start Date: Immediate

weekly maintenance..... grass cut/strim edges.. weed spraying. generally keeping tidy and presentable for visitors. and at relevant times of year... plenty extra .....beech hedge cutting/wisteria t...

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24 Mar

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Nicholas S

Start Date: Immediate

the garden is not level and needs raising and leveling off and turf but down garden type: back garden current state of garden: the garden is not yet cleared work required: lawn/turfing do you have a: ...

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25 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Joseph V

Start Date: Immediate

annual lawn mowing service quote are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: small garden garden type: back garden work required: lawn/turfing current state of garden: the...

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18 Mar

Fencing | Wooden

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Jana B

Start Date: Immediate

Whole fence panels plus concrete Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Terrace How many fence panels are you looking for: 5+ Panels What level of service do you require: ...

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24 Feb

Fencing | Wooden

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Lisa A

Start Date: Immediate

60ft of 6ft fence and 6ft gate, provided and fitted Are you the property owner: Tenant (with permission) Property Type: Semi detached How many fence panels are you looking for: 5+ Panels What level ...

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23 Feb

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Mrs H

Start Date: Immediate

We have just moved to this property and all our boundaries are hedges. The problem is that the hedges are all different species like beech, Cupressus and many native species. We need the hedges for pr...

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09 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Andrew B

Start Date: Immediate

Getting ride of weeds in front and back garden tidying a back garden to get it ready for tiling

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03 Oct

Fencing | Wooden

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: IAN R

Start Date: Immediate

Panel fencing 10 feet x 6 feet. Posts and fixing

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01 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: John D

Start Date: Immediate

Parking space at rear is overgrown and needs tidying up along with regular tidying up around the back of the house area

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16 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Winifred C

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Work description: Lawns, hedges, weeds, paths, steps - weeds to be removed and tidied Please c...

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29 Mar

Garden | Landscaping

Windermere - LA23

Enquiry from: Jacqueline L

Start Date: Immediate

**Purchase of domestic 8 x 10, approx greenhouse. Hopefully, poly carbonate** Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Roughly the size of your garden: Unsure G...

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How much do Landscaper services cost?

How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2024 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?

Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.

View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper advice

The average price
of a Landscaper in Windermere is:

£1,478

Landscaper job Landscaper cost in 2024
Wooden fencing in Windermere £1,125-£1,725
Landscaping in Windermere £2,250-£3,450
Garden maintenance and upkeep in Windermere £188-£288
Wooden decking in Windermere £1,125-£1,725
Artificial Grass in Windermere £3,000-£4,600
Garden shed in Windermere £450-£690
Garden lighting in Windermere £320-£480
Driveway repair in Windermere £1,520-£2,280
Lawn Care in Windermere £130-£200

Related Landscaper searches in Windermere

Landscaper FAQs

How can I tell if my lawn has diseases or pests?

With summer comes a lot of lawn challenges - from sod webworms, chinch bugs, nutsedge to drought stress, diseases and lots more. A lot of people find it hard to tell what’s happening to their lawn and probably assume it to be as a result of the summer stress and will definitely turn green again once the fall rolls in. This may be right in certain situations, but if you have fungi eating deep into your lawn, the green may not return. So, how exactly do you figure out if your lawn has diseases or pests? In this post, we’re going to provide you with a good insight into this to help you take the necessary treatment steps as soon as possible.

  • Fungal structures. Fungi structures are not usually the easiest to spot as they vary in shape, colour and appearance. Fortunately, most fungi that appears on lawns will possess some type of structure which can be spotted when moisture is present. Once the night time dew sets in, you’ll be able to identify these strange growths in your lawn.
  • Matted or Collapsed Areas. There is some sort of diseases that will make grass plant to wilt in little time. This, combined with fungi structures will make the grass look to have been matted in some areas.
  • Discoloured or oily areas. Some areas are likely to show symptoms more than the others. While the unaffected turf may remain in its normal state, areas that are nearby may vary in colour due to the damage to the leaf tissue.
  • Lesions or spots on leaves. Do you notice a certain damage pattern on the leaf blades of the grass plants? If yes, then your lawn is probably infected with a disease. Some of these spots may vary in size and colour.
Can I insulate my shed?

Yes, it is possible to insulate a shed. You might want to do this if you’re planning on working in it during the winter. A professional will be able to help you find an insulated shed or advise you on how to insulate a shed that you already have. Always seek professional advise first before attempting to do this yourself!

How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to build a shed base on uneven ground?
Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out.
  1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
  2. Build a timber frame to size.
  3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
  4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
  5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
  6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.
If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
Where should I put my garden shed?

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
How do I aerate my lawn?

Aeration, like scarification, is another vital step to keeping your lawn looking healthy and vibrant. It involves making small holes in the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to get into the grass roots, helping them to grow deeply, and produce a much stronger lawn. It also helps to relieve compaction from the soil, which stops nutrients and air from circulating. But how do you aerate your lawn?

Before you start to aerate your lawn, it’s a good idea to scarify it first to get rid of any moss, dead grass and thatch. This involves vigorously raking your lawn to get all the organic matter up, then transferring it to your compost heap or disposing of it. Light scarification is best in the spring but you can heavily scarify it in the autumn.

If you’ve got a small lawn, you can use a hand-held hollow tine aerator or even a normal garden fork. Dig deep into your lawn’s surface with the fork, or push the aerator into the ground which will pull plugs, or cores, of soil out of the ground to create air holes. You can let the cores dry and then go over them with a lawn mower or rake to spread them evenly across your lawn. This will recycle all the nutrients in those parts of the soil and stimulate bacterial activity to break down unwanted thatch. Don’t leave them, because they will make your lawn look bumpy over time.

If you’ve got a larger lawn, you might find it easier to see if you can hire a petrol aerator. But there are also rolling aerators that have spikes on a cylinder and you just push along, or even aerator sandals that you can wear and just go to town on your grass!

Landscaper help and advice

Repairing a hole in ceiling with plasterboard and insulation in Tadley RG26 Published: 20/11/2024 Need a ceiling repair in Tadley RG26? Learn how to patch a square hole, replace insulation, and restore a perfect finish. Read this article
Moss removal from roof and gutter repair in Bath BA2 Published: 20/11/2024 Discover effective moss removal and gutter repair solutions for a semi-detached home in Bath, including cleaning concrete tile roofs. Read this article
Full garage roof replacement in Leeds LS17 with budget-friendly materials Published: 20/11/2024 Looking to replace a garage roof in Leeds LS17? Learn about affordable materials and expert advice for older properties. Read this article

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