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Atomus Electrical

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Offers services in BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS
Qualified Electrician, Army veteran after 23 years service. Safety focused, will provide you with a service of the highest...
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Phase 3 Electrical

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Offers services in BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS
Phase 3 Electrical Installations Ltd is a family owned NICEIC Approved Contractor based in Thornton-Cleveleys, Lancashire....
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JPW property care

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Offers services in BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS
We are a Family run business . With over 35 years experience. Between us with our small team. we pride ourselves on our ho...
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M6 Flooring

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Offers services in BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS
M6 Flooring Ltd is a family business that fits and restores wooden flooring and vinyl flooring, we also fit wood and vinyl...
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Jd paving

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Offers services in BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS
My names John from JD PAVING we are a proud family run business and got over 50+ experience in the landscaping industry we...
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Banks Flooring Solutions

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Offers services in BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS
Here at Banks Flooring Solutions, we offer flooring products such as luxury vinyl tile, vinyl, cushion floor vinyl, carpet...

Recent Landscaper Enquiries

25 Sep

Fencing | Wooden

Broughton-in-Furness - LA20

Enquiry from: Catherine B

Start Date: Immediate

hi - i'd like a quote for 4x wooden fence tree guards for a field. quote 1 - 4x guards 1.8m high, 1.8 wide, 4 wooden rails, ideally round posts, barbed wire strand top & bottom quote 2 - 4x guards 1....

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20 Sep

Fencing | Wooden

Broughton-in-Furness - LA20

Enquiry from: Phil H

Start Date: Immediate

Can you cut some boards to size for us? We need some boards to go round the edge of the community tennis court in Broughton In furness. They need to be 8 inches high and I guess about 8 foot long. Tha...

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28 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Broughton-in-Furness - LA20

Enquiry from: Patricia M

Start Date: Immediate

Would like a gardener to maintain the garden boarders every two or three weeks please, (the rest of the garden is concrete)

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22 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Grange-over-Sands - LA11

Enquiry from: Alex T

Start Date: Immediate

Hi there! I need some help with cutting back a hedge at the bottom of our garden, do you have any availability soon to help out? Thanks! Alex

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02 Jun

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Askam-in-Furness - LA16

Enquiry from: Sam H

Start Date: Immediate

Pressure wash and tidy terrace yard area. Put together a vegatable trug. Fill trug with soil/fertiliser (around 50 litres).. Maybe plant some herbs in the trug depending on price of plants.

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30 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Grange-over-Sands - LA11

Enquiry from: Celia C

Start Date: Immediate

My dad needs some garden tidying prob every 2 weeks. Small garden with a portion of communal banking opposite. Wondering if you could assist?

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20 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Ulverston - LA12

Enquiry from: Sarah W

Start Date: Immediate

mowing and ground maintenance are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: extra large garden garden type: back garden, front garden, side garden work required: lawn/turfin...

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15 May

Garden | Sheds

Barrow-in-Furness - LA14

Enquiry from: Graham S

Start Date: Immediate

1 2 x lawns mowed every 2 weeks. 2. borders weeded and bushes pruned evey month. 3. big hedge at front to be cut once in summer. are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: semi d...

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12 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Dalton-in-Furness - LA15

Enquiry from: Abbie E

Start Date: Immediate

Lawn Care Lead Lawn Care Lead

General garden maintenance. Lawn mowing, hedge trimming, weeding

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10 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Grange-over-Sands - LA11

Enquiry from: Simon C

Start Date: Immediate

Lawn mowing, weeding, general upkeep.

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10 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Ulverston - LA12

Enquiry from: Margaret S

Start Date: Immediate

i need a gardener to keep my back garden tidy and deal with the weeds both back and front. are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: small garden garden type: back ...

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08 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Dalton-in-Furness - LA15

Enquiry from: Rachel K

Start Date: Immediate

Dear Colin, our garden is small although it has been over grown during the past couple of years and we’re finding it tricky to get it in a nice order. There is weeds and plants we don’t want and b...

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07 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Ulverston - LA12

Enquiry from: Denise W

Start Date: Immediate

i have a very overgrown garden full of weeds and rubble that needs digging up are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: semi detached garden type: back garden work required: other

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05 May

Fencing | Wooden

Coniston - LA21

Enquiry from: Amanda F

Start Date: Immediate

Hi. Do you decking if so could I have a sample piece I need to match some up. Thanks

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23 Apr

Garden | Landscaping

Ulverston - LA12

Enquiry from: Ross C

Start Date: Immediate

We are looking to have our back, bottom garden cleared, leveled & paved. Could you give us a Quote ? 31 Ulverston Rd., Swarthmoor

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21 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Millom - LA19

Enquiry from: Barry R

Start Date: Immediate

Front and side front garden hedge cut throughout summer. Same for 33 Summer Hill Thank you.

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17 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Ulverston - LA12

Enquiry from: Jennifer B

Start Date: Immediate

Rear lawn cutting (and tidying afterwards) Approx 12 ft x30ft every 2 weeks

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31 Mar

Fencing | Wooden

Millom - LA18

Enquiry from: Roy C

Start Date: Immediate

Hello I’m after some fence capping about 44 mm wide x about 15m

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29 Mar

Fencing | Wooden

Dalton-in-Furness - LA15

Enquiry from: Annabel M

Start Date: Immediate

Composite fencing and gate

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26 Mar

Garden | Landscaping

Grange-over-Sands - LA11

Enquiry from: Fiona Q

Start Date: Immediate

Landscaping, will include some small shrubs taking out also looking for patio clean

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How much do Landscaper services cost?

How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2024 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?

Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.

View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper advice

The average price
of a Landscaper in Broughton-in-furness is:

£1,478

Landscaper job Landscaper cost in 2024
Wooden fencing in Broughton-in-furness £1,125-£1,725
Landscaping in Broughton-in-furness £2,250-£3,450
Garden maintenance and upkeep in Broughton-in-furness £188-£288
Wooden decking in Broughton-in-furness £1,125-£1,725
Artificial Grass in Broughton-in-furness £3,000-£4,600
Garden shed in Broughton-in-furness £450-£690
Garden lighting in Broughton-in-furness £320-£480
Driveway repair in Broughton-in-furness £1,520-£2,280
Lawn Care in Broughton-in-furness £130-£200

Related Landscaper searches in Broughton-in-furness

Landscaper FAQs

Fence ownership: who owns that garden fence?

When it comes to fence ownership and responsibility, this is often a subject of dispute between neighbours and understandably so. Owning a fence comes with a number of responsibilities such as arranging and paying for the maintenance and more. Therefore, if you’re not yet sure who owns the garden fence, then you’d probably want to have that sorted to make sure your property stays protected at all times. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into some of the rules guiding fence ownership in order to help you make informed decisions. Let’s take a look!

 

There’s no rule of thumb on whether you own the fence on the right hand or the left hand side of your property. Therefore, if you’ve heard any “rules that states otherwise, you can fling that out the window because not everyone will own the left hand side to their fence. The first way to determine who owns the garden fence or which side of the fence you’re responsible for is simply by looking. Although this is not guaranteed or a definite way to determine ownership, it can go a long way to give you a good idea. As you would have expected, fences are most likely built on the land that belongs to the boundary’s owner with the further edge of the fence making the actual boundary. As a result, you can determine a fence ownership simply by identifying where the frames are.

Also, you can determine fence ownership using the title deeds for an official and accurate answer. A copy should be given alongside your paperwork which is received when purchasing your house.

How much is artificial grass?
How much artificial grass costs depends on the quality of grass you choose, how big the area to be covered is, and whether you choose to have it installed or do it yourself. On average, you should expect to pay between £25 and £70 per m2 to have artificial grass installed by a professional. That means a 30m2 artificial lawn would cost between £750 and £2,100. So what will affect how much artificial grass costs? The quality of the artificial grass The quality of the artificial turf makes a big difference to the price. The lower end of the price range might not be quite right for a garden, since they often look extremely fake, and won’t last as long. Somewhere in the middle of the range should give you a good, long-lasting look without breaking the bank. Quality of the sub-base If you’re laying artificial grass on an existing lawn, this will need to be dug up to level out the area and add a weed-resistant membrane, creating what's called a sub-base. On average, the materials will cost £247 to make a sub-base. Whether you’ll need waste removal If you’re digging up the existing lawn or removing paving slabs to create a new sub-base, you might need a skip. A typical 4-yard skip will set you back around £220. Whether you’re doing DIY If you fancy having a go at laying your own artificial grass, you’ll of course save on labour costs. You’ll need to weigh up the benefits of DIY against the risks that the finish might not look as good or the grass might not last as long. But if you choose an average-quality artificial grass at £15 per m2, 30m2 of artificial grass will cost £450 not including the underlay as well as joining tape and adhesive.

How can I tell if my lawn has diseases or pests?

With summer comes a lot of lawn challenges - from sod webworms, chinch bugs, nutsedge to drought stress, diseases and lots more. A lot of people find it hard to tell what’s happening to their lawn and probably assume it to be as a result of the summer stress and will definitely turn green again once the fall rolls in. This may be right in certain situations, but if you have fungi eating deep into your lawn, the green may not return. So, how exactly do you figure out if your lawn has diseases or pests? In this post, we’re going to provide you with a good insight into this to help you take the necessary treatment steps as soon as possible.

  • Fungal structures. Fungi structures are not usually the easiest to spot as they vary in shape, colour and appearance. Fortunately, most fungi that appears on lawns will possess some type of structure which can be spotted when moisture is present. Once the night time dew sets in, you’ll be able to identify these strange growths in your lawn.
  • Matted or Collapsed Areas. There is some sort of diseases that will make grass plant to wilt in little time. This, combined with fungi structures will make the grass look to have been matted in some areas.
  • Discoloured or oily areas. Some areas are likely to show symptoms more than the others. While the unaffected turf may remain in its normal state, areas that are nearby may vary in colour due to the damage to the leaf tissue.
  • Lesions or spots on leaves. Do you notice a certain damage pattern on the leaf blades of the grass plants? If yes, then your lawn is probably infected with a disease. Some of these spots may vary in size and colour.
What is the cheapest fence to install?

The cheapest fence to install is, generally, a pressure-treated pine wooden fence at around £20 per linear foot. This includes the materials and labour costs. Wire fencing is technically cheaper at around £5 per foot, but it’s not a great material to use in homes as it looks unsightly and doesn’t provide any privacy.

How do I aerate my lawn?

Aeration, like scarification, is another vital step to keeping your lawn looking healthy and vibrant. It involves making small holes in the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to get into the grass roots, helping them to grow deeply, and produce a much stronger lawn. It also helps to relieve compaction from the soil, which stops nutrients and air from circulating. But how do you aerate your lawn?

Before you start to aerate your lawn, it’s a good idea to scarify it first to get rid of any moss, dead grass and thatch. This involves vigorously raking your lawn to get all the organic matter up, then transferring it to your compost heap or disposing of it. Light scarification is best in the spring but you can heavily scarify it in the autumn.

If you’ve got a small lawn, you can use a hand-held hollow tine aerator or even a normal garden fork. Dig deep into your lawn’s surface with the fork, or push the aerator into the ground which will pull plugs, or cores, of soil out of the ground to create air holes. You can let the cores dry and then go over them with a lawn mower or rake to spread them evenly across your lawn. This will recycle all the nutrients in those parts of the soil and stimulate bacterial activity to break down unwanted thatch. Don’t leave them, because they will make your lawn look bumpy over time.

If you’ve got a larger lawn, you might find it easier to see if you can hire a petrol aerator. But there are also rolling aerators that have spikes on a cylinder and you just push along, or even aerator sandals that you can wear and just go to town on your grass!

how to build garden steps

Chances are at some point you’d probably given a though about how steps would fit in perfectly in your garden, except of course, your yard and garden is flat. Adding steps and gardens makes it a lot easier to get around your yard while also enhancing its curb appeal. In order to avoid the cost of hiring a professional to get the task done, you might be tempted to make it a DIY task. However, if you lack the required skill and confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you call in a professional so as to avoid costly errors. In this post, we’re going to take you through the garden steps building process. Let’s take a look!

  1. Measure the vertical height of the slope by marking it with two parallel lines. Once done, proceed by connecting a string line to the slope’s top and hold it in a horizontal way, take a measurement of the flight’s length and breadth. Divide the measurement by 200mm to get the number of steps that’ll be required. Then proceed to divide the number by the height to identify the depth of each step.
  2. Working downwards from the flight’s top, dig the step shapes and also dig a shallow trench and install a concrete foundation.
  3. Enable the foundation to harden by leaving it for about 48 hours, then install two courses of bricks on the concrete strip and use gravel to backfill.
  4. With the help of a trowel, apply mortar to the top of the brickwork. Place the first slab on the mortar bed and press down. Then, make use of a spirit level to make sure that the steps are level.
  5. On the back edge of the first tread, you should proceed to build the second rise, backfill and install the slab to form the second tread – just like the previous step. Repeat this process until you’ve gotten to the top of the flight.
How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to plant a garden?

Whether you’re starting a garden from scratch or adding plants to a garden that needs a big of work, the biggest step in planting a garden is preparation. We’ll give you a few tips on how to plant a garden whatever your garden’s size. Check your soil The most important thing to do before you start to plant a garden is check your soil type. Different plants suit different soils, so you should choose ones that will like the soil in your garden. If your soil is sticky and muddy, it’s referred to as clay soil, but if it runs through your fingers when you pick it up it’s known as sandy. Ideally, you want something between the two to help your plants’ roots spread easily. If you have heavy clay soil, you’ll need to add well-rotted manure or compost to improve the structure, but if it’s sandy you’ll need to add organic matter to improve its fertility. Make a plan Don’t just start planting wherever – make sure you’ve got a plan of where you want everything to go. Do a simple drawing or cut out photos from magazines or the internet. How to plant bare root plants and trees When you’re planning what to plant in your garden, make sure you choose the correct amount and size of trees you’re going to plant. In a small to medium garden you only want one or two trees, and you don’t want anything too large that might spread too far. When you’re ready to plant, make sure there’s enough room for the roots to spread. Look for the soil ‘tide mark’ near the base which will show the depth that it was planted before, and use that as your guide. Dig your hole to the correct depth and width and fork the sides so it’s easier for roots to get in. Add some well-rotted manure and place the plant in the hole so the roots are spread out and fill the hole with soil. Planting potted plants Dig a hole deep enough for your plant – put the pot in the hole to check whether you’re there yet. You want around 2cm around the outside and don’t make the hole any deeper than the pot. If your plant has a tight root ball from outgrowing its pot, gently tease out the roots – it won’t harm the plant. How to plant plug plants in your garden Plug plants are usually mail-order plants that you get in spring and are a great way to start planting a garden. You must handle them carefully and water them before planting. Fill a small pot with compost and make a well in the centre, then drop the plug in. Gently pat the soil around it. You might need to pot them again to the next size up later on, and harden them off outside before planting them in the ground after there’s no risk of frost. With these few tips you can easily get started with planting your garden. But if you need some help and advice, get in touch with local gardeners who will be happy to give you a quote.

Landscaper help and advice

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