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Verified Pro

All type cleaning

4 review(s)
Offers services in ST ASAPH
My name is Tommy I have been in the trade for 40 years. We specialise in Block drives, gravel drives, tarmac drives, Patios.
Verified Pro

M6 Flooring

0 review(s)
Offers services in ST ASAPH
M6 Flooring Ltd is a family business that fits and restores wooden flooring and vinyl flooring, we also fit wood and vinyl...
Verified Pro

Setinstone driveways

0 review(s)
Offers services in ST ASAPH
A Friendly Family run business, Specializing in Driveways & patios. With over 12 years experience working in landscaping a...
Verified Pro

Mersey Landscapes

0 review(s)
Offers services in ST ASAPH
Mersey Landscapes is a professional landscaping company based in Liverpool that prides itself on every detail, Driveways, ...
Verified Pro

Build fix & Plaster

0 review(s)
Offers services in ST ASAPH
We have many years of experience working on extension projects of our own, or sub contracting onto other projects with our...

Recent Landscaper Enquiries

24 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: Mike L

Start Date: Immediate

Hi l would like a quote for some hedge trimming please. Many Thanks, Mike Lund

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02 Sep

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: Connor M

Start Date: Immediate

Lawn Care Lead

waited for grass to bind now ready to be cut are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden, front garden work required: lawn/turf...

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16 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: BRYAN R

Start Date: Immediate

clearance of rear garden & drive & removal of all rubbish clearance of front garden & removal of all rubbish are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: medium size g...

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30 Sep

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: John G

Start Date: Immediate

90 m2 of rotavator and seeding work are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden work required: lawn/turfing current state of ga...

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30 Jun

Garden | Decking

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: Irene F

Start Date: Less than one month

customer has a gardening & landscaping project they are looking to have done, specially they want quotes for wooden decking. they are unsure of options so would like to discuss with a carpenter.confir...

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13 May

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: Sylvia B

Start Date: Immediate

lawn cut every 2 or 3 weeks please are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: detached garden type: back garden work required: other current state of garden: the garden is cleared d...

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30 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: Dave O

Start Date: Immediate

good afternoon we have a pond which needs the liner fully replacing. the pond liner at ground level is cemented under contrete slabs. the pond dimensions are approx 4m x 3m x 1.4m depth. we are after...

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22 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: Paul A

Start Date: Immediate

Cut back lawn

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24 Apr

Garden | Decking

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: Lloyd W

Start Date: Immediate

Decking to be installed across rear of house 7m wide approx. Maybe in a L shape to allow for patio table etc.

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11 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

St. Asaph - LL17

Enquiry from: R

Start Date: Immediate

Im looking for some garden maintenance, borders, weeding , hedge trimming and a general tidy up Thanks

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How much do Landscaper services cost?

How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2025 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?

Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.

View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper advice

The average price
of a Landscaper in St Asaph is:

£1,478

Landscaper job Landscaper cost in 2025
Wooden fencing in St Asaph £1,125-£1,725
Landscaping in St Asaph £2,250-£3,450
Garden maintenance and upkeep in St Asaph £188-£288
Wooden decking in St Asaph £1,125-£1,725
Artificial Grass in St Asaph £3,000-£4,600
Garden shed in St Asaph £450-£690
Garden lighting in St Asaph £320-£480
Driveway repair in St Asaph £1,520-£2,280
Lawn Care in St Asaph £130-£200

Related Landscaper searches in St Asaph

Landscaper FAQs

Does landscaping a garden add value?

Does Landscaping A Garden Add Value?

When taking a good look at the image of new homes or perhaps you’re just thinking about getting one, one thing that several people will look out for is the garden. The thought of owning a perfect little oasis is all homeowners’ dream.

In a recent study conducted by Rightmove, it was discovered that to more than 60% of home buyers, an access to a garden was a priority. And according to the Royal Chartered Institute of Surveyors, this demand for garden is set to grow by 20% over the next 2 years.

Therefore, it’s obvious that having a beautiful landscaped garden is always a great asset to possess. But exactly how much value does a garden add to a property?

According to the studies carried out by Foxtons, it’s suggested that a garden can add as much as 20% to any property’s value, however, it should be expected that this value can vary based on a number of factors. In urban locations such as London, where there’s really not much outdoor space, possessing a garden can add an enormous amount to your property’s value.

However, if you happen to live in sub urban areas such as Wilmslow, where almost every home possesses a garden, what will influence the amount of value a garden will add to your property depends on it’s size as well as it’s unique features.

What’s more? Another important influence of a garden’s added value is the time of the season in which you’re selling your property. For more value, the best time to sell is always in the spring or summer when there are several gardens in bloom and multiple colours to please the eye. However, when it’s autumn and winter, the idea of staying outdoors for a quick get together or gardening is always very far, hence the value that’ll be added at this point may be low.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
Do I need planning permission for fences?

Not if they are under 1 metre high if next to a road or 2 metres high elsewhere. It’s always recommended to check with your neighbours and the local authority if you are unsure. Other restrictions may apply, for example if a fence might impact driver visibility on nearby roads.

Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

how much does it cost to repair a driveway?

Is your driveway damaged or starting to show some signs of cracks and gaps? If yes, then you’d probably be thinking of repairing it before it gets even worse. Repairing a driveway is largely an unknown process but also a very tedious task as well. So if you’re looking to hire a professional for help, just how much is the repair going to cost? In this article, we’re going to look at the various factors that can determine the cost of a driveway repair.

In the UK, the average price of repairing a driveway is usually within the range of £1,400 to £1,800, where as the normal price of a driveway repair will range between £700 to £2,400. although some small repairs tasks can be as low as £250, while huge driveway repairs can skyrocket to about £4,200.

However, in general, the overall cost of repair a driveway can not be determined as each driveway is unique with their special repair needs. The factors that can influence the price of a driveway repair includes the material used, the perimeter of the driveway as well as the condition of the foundation. The only factor that’s not unique to any one driveway is the materials used, so let’s take a look at the differences in price using the based on the various types of materials available.

✓ Concrete. The average cost of repairing a concrete driveway is usually between £250 to £3,200. Have it in mind at most times the price of fixing an overly damaged driveway can be more than the cost of buying a new one.

✓ Asphalt. The average cost of repairing an asphalt driveway is usually between £750 to £2,800.

✓ Brick. The average cost of repairing a brick driveway is usually between £700 to £1,700.

✓ Cobblestone. The average cost of repairing a cobblestone driveway is usually between £500 to £1,600.

How much is artificial grass?
How much artificial grass costs depends on the quality of grass you choose, how big the area to be covered is, and whether you choose to have it installed or do it yourself. On average, you should expect to pay between £25 and £70 per m2 to have artificial grass installed by a professional. That means a 30m2 artificial lawn would cost between £750 and £2,100. So what will affect how much artificial grass costs? The quality of the artificial grass The quality of the artificial turf makes a big difference to the price. The lower end of the price range might not be quite right for a garden, since they often look extremely fake, and won’t last as long. Somewhere in the middle of the range should give you a good, long-lasting look without breaking the bank. Quality of the sub-base If you’re laying artificial grass on an existing lawn, this will need to be dug up to level out the area and add a weed-resistant membrane, creating what's called a sub-base. On average, the materials will cost £247 to make a sub-base. Whether you’ll need waste removal If you’re digging up the existing lawn or removing paving slabs to create a new sub-base, you might need a skip. A typical 4-yard skip will set you back around £220. Whether you’re doing DIY If you fancy having a go at laying your own artificial grass, you’ll of course save on labour costs. You’ll need to weigh up the benefits of DIY against the risks that the finish might not look as good or the grass might not last as long. But if you choose an average-quality artificial grass at £15 per m2, 30m2 of artificial grass will cost £450 not including the underlay as well as joining tape and adhesive.

How do I get rid of moss, mushrooms and weeds in my lawn?

Moss, mushrooms and weeds are all problems that many homeowners face on their lawns. Luckily, with a bit of maintenance, there are ways you can get rid of these unwanted organisms and prevent them from coming back. Getting rid of moss A simple way to remove moss from your lawn is by scarification. This basically means that you vigorously rake your lawn, but only do this in the autumn when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. However, you can also use specific weedkillers to control moss on your lawn, and most of these should be applied when the moss is actively growing. Apply in fine weather by hand or with a push-along spreader, making sure not to apply too much as you could kill off the grass too. Check the instructions, as some will require watering after 48 hours if it’s not rained. Then, get into a scarification routine to help prevent moss growth. Removing mushrooms from your lawn If you’ve got mushrooms in your lawn, it usually means that your lawn is damp and shaded, so it never dries out, and is organic waste-rich. There could be a drainage problem with your lawn that is encouraging mushroom growth, so it’s important to investigate why the mushrooms are growing to prevent them from returning once you’ve removed them. To get rid of mushrooms in your lawn, make sure you scarify your lawn and get rid of all the moss, thatch and dead grass that comes up. If you leave it, this is heaven for mushrooms to grow in. If your lawn is shaded, try to prune and thin surrounding trees to offer it more light. If you do all of these things, it will prevent mushrooms from growing in the future, and then it might be worth using a fungicide to get rid of the mushrooms that are there. But if you just do this step, it’s likely the mushrooms will just come back. How to get rid of weeds To get rid of weeds from your lawn, you can use selective weedkillers that will just kill the weeds and leave your grass alone. But if you’d rather not use weedkiller, you can get rid of weeds from your lawn manually. For large, deep-rooted weeds like dandelions or plantains, use a trowel to lever them out, ensuring that you get the whole plant including its roots. Then use compost to fill the hole it leaves behind, pushing it deeply into the hole. Sprinkle with fresh grass seed, cover with extra compost and water. Make sure you keep the area damp until the seed has germinated. To prevent moss, mushrooms or weeds from returning, the best things to do are:

  • Scarify your lawn in the autumn, and lightly in the spring if necessary
  • Seed your lawn in the autumn if you need to
  • Try to keep trees trimmed and pruned as much as possible to reduce shade
  • Use a pre-emergent weedkiller in the spring to catch them before they grow and handpick any that come through
  • Mow your lawn regularly in the spring and summer, being careful not to remove more than a third of grass at a time, then before winter give it one last mow and a fertilisation treatment

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

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