Find a Handyman you can trust in Brighton.

There are a bunch of things a handyman can do around the house, so if you’re looking for a reason to hire one, you’d definitely find plenty. First and foremost, a handyman is basically a well versed, skilled and experienced professional who possesses the ability to carry out a plethora of tasks as well as repairs. While not all local authorities require handymen to have a license or carry an insurance policy, some handymen do have insurance. Generally, their rates vary based on their experience as well as specialities.

Handymen are able to handle a multitude of potential jobs in and around the house. These ranges from small tasks, installations, assembly, indoor or outdoor building or repair jobs. They are available to help out with a wide array of odd jobs around the home at a very reasonable price. So, what are some of the jobs a handyman can do in a home? Let’s take a look!

• Odd jobs. This encapsulates any small job you’d want done around the house. It could be a repair, installation or maintenance task.
• Gutter cleaning and repair. The idea of cleaning a gutter may seem hassle free, but there can be a couple of difficulties which includes the use of ladders and the risk of falling. When you hire a handyman to do this task, he does not only clean but also check for any damage or repair needs and much more.
• Painting. If you’re not able to handle some of your painting projects or perhaps you’re just not confident of how its going to turn out, it may be in your best interest to reach out to a skilled handyman.
• General carpentry and home repairs, these includes shelving, cabinets, bookcases, baseboards, framing, doors, countertops, moulding and more.

A real headache is having graffiti on brick. This material is porous which enables paint to sink with ease inside all of the surface’s grooves. Unlike wood, they can’t be scraped and if it happens to be an internal wall, it can’t be sand- or water-blasted. Here, chemical and gel masonry stripper are your best bet. And while stripping of the brick is not a complex task, it does involve a number of applications of stripper and multiple scrubbing which makes it very time consuming.

Basically, a fresh and wet paint should be soaked up with am absorbent material without wiping the paint in order to spread the stain. Once done, you can then proceed to apply a suitable solvent like white spirit. After this, wash the area using a degreasing agent taking care in the disposal of the run-off material.

With dried paint, simply scrape off the paint as far as possible and apply a paint removal using the following steps:

• Put on your safety gear like a face mask, safety googles and gloves.
• Apply the paint stripper over the brick wall with a brush starting from a corner at the top of the wall and then working outward and downward.
• Leave for the specified amount of time by the manufacturer. Then start to scrub off the masonry paint stripper beginning at the top of the wall again. Remove as many paints as possible.
• Use rags and warm water to wash the brick wall and allow it to air dry.
• Repeat the process over again to remove every form of stubborn paint that’s left.
• Use a white vinegar to spray the stripped brick wall and wipe off any residue of paint with a brush and rinse with water.

Being a strong and durable product requiring little maintenance and expected to last over 2 decades, it’s little wonder resin is now a popular material amongst homeowners in the UK to build their driveways. However, there’s always the issue of the driveway fading, cracking or even becoming worn and tired. So is it possible to repair resin driveways? The answer is yes, a resin driveway can be repaired, however the best approach to use largely depends on the issue being faced. As a confident DIYer it’ll be very easy to do, but if you lack the confidence then calling in a professional for help would be a better option. So let’s take a look at how you can repair your resin driveways.

For cracks, the best reparation approach would be to chisel it out. Once done, then you can proceed to breaking the stones to form a rough edge. It’s important to make sure that the matrix of the stone remains unaffected. Make a new mixture of resin bound stone and pack it in tightly to the gap. While doing this, we’ll recommend making use of a plastic trowel to avoid burnishing. This fresh mixture will then create a smooth and perfect surface by interlocking with the edges. You can follow similar procedure for patches but these are larger holes or damages than cracks and as the name suggests are mostly likely to remain noticeable but will prevent further crumbling of your resin driveway.

For homeowners, who aren’t so keen about the patch repairs, you can opt for an overlay especially in the event whereby the majority of the surface has failed. Although many usually shy away from this approach because of the perceived high expenses, but the fact is that the approach is actually cost effective as you won’t have the need to spend more money in the long run.

1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, it definitely does matter if the graffiti has been there a long time! When it comes to graffiti removal, one thing to have at the back of your mind is prompt removal is always the most effective. However, this doesn’t mean that a long existing graffiti can’t be removed. Graffiti that has been in existence a long time can be removed, but you shouldn’t expect this to be a walk in the park. If you don’t have the experience, tools and skills to pull this off, it’s strongly recommended that you call in a qualified professional for help so as to ensure the best result is achieved without any form of damage to your walls.  However, if you wish to give this a shot, then here are some tips that should put you in the right direction.

Here, we’ll advise you to get an effective graffiti cleaning solution such as Elephant Snot® to remove the long existing graffiti. To start the removal process, simply brush the product ( Elephant Snot® ) with the help of a wallpaper brush on the affected wall. Once completed, let the product sit for about 45 minutes to 1 hour to make for an easy removal. After this, you can then proceed to power washing it off at about 1400 to 1600 psi cold water. This should remove virtually all the paint leaving only a few behind. Identify the remaining stubborn graffiti and go for a second application. Repeat the process until the graffiti has been fully washed off. This should leave no damage to your wall whether brick or mortar.

How Much For A Painter To Paint A Room?

If you’re looking to have your room painted, it’s only normal to get an idea of how much it’s going to cost so you can set a budget and start planning. As you would have expected, the cost of having a room painted is dependent on a wide array of influencing factors such as the size of your room, the type of paint to be used, your location and many more. As a result, providing a single and accurate answer to this question is almost impossible.

Generally, a regular 4 metres by 3 metres room will take just a couple of days to be fully painted including both the coving and woodwork. Outside London, most painters and decorators would charge within the range of £150 to £200 per day meaning that you’ll have a total labour cost within the range of £300 to £400. What’s more? You’d also have to consider the price of the paint to be used which is usually around £50. If you add all the costs together you’ll get an average cost of about £400 to £500.

Unfortunately, paint does not last an eternity. Therefore, there’ll come a time where you’d have to consider painting your room all over again. It may seem unwise to employ the services of a professional painter and decorator especially if you’re on a budget. However, in truth, calling in a professional can go a long way to save you time, stress and money. In other words, even if you’re worried about the cost, a professional painter is still your best bet in the long run as they know exactly what to do to ensure you derive maximum benefits from your painting project.

How To Clean A Fibreglass Roof?

If you have a dirty fibreglass roof or perhaps you’re just planning to have one installed on a newly constructed house, then you’d probably want to know the best way to have your fibreglass roof cleaned.

Generally, fibreglass roofs are of great quality and happens to be a lot more resistant to moisture, heat, water and even fire when compared to the other alternative flat roofing materials. As a result, they require just a little maintenance but this doesn’t mean they should be totally ignored. Truth be told, cleaning of a fibreglass roof is as easy as it get, however, when it comes to working at height, skill and confidence is paramount to guarantee your safety. If you lack any of these two qualities, then it’s highly recommended that you sought the services of a reliable roof cleaning contractor who can do the work safely and perfectly. If you’re able to clean and maintain your fibreglass roof as you should, you wouldn’t have to think about replacement for about 20 to 30 years.

Cleaning is simple and doesn’t take much time. Now let’s take a look at the process.

✓ Preparation. Hose down the vegetation around the area with water to protect them. Once done, mix a gallon of warm water with one quarter cup trisodium phosphate and 1 quart of bleach. Put this mixture into a garden sprayer and sweep any dirt or debris off the roof with a broom.

✓ Application. Spray the mixture over the fibreglass roof, ensuring that it gets to all the necessary corners where dirt may be hidden. Allow this applied solution to sit for up to 15 minutes to loosen the stubborn stains and dirts on the roof.

✓ Finishing. Spray cold water to wash down all the solutions. If there’s still some dirts, you can repeat the process till the fibreglass roof is entirely clean.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar