Find a Handyman you can trust near you.

There are a bunch of things a handyman can do around the house, so if you’re looking for a reason to hire one, you’d definitely find plenty. First and foremost, a handyman is basically a well versed, skilled and experienced professional who possesses the ability to carry out a plethora of tasks as well as repairs. While not all local authorities require handymen to have a license or carry an insurance policy, some handymen do have insurance. Generally, their rates vary based on their experience as well as specialities.

Handymen are able to handle a multitude of potential jobs in and around the house. These ranges from small tasks, installations, assembly, indoor or outdoor building or repair jobs. They are available to help out with a wide array of odd jobs around the home at a very reasonable price. So, what are some of the jobs a handyman can do in a home? Let’s take a look!

• Odd jobs. This encapsulates any small job you’d want done around the house. It could be a repair, installation or maintenance task.
• Gutter cleaning and repair. The idea of cleaning a gutter may seem hassle free, but there can be a couple of difficulties which includes the use of ladders and the risk of falling. When you hire a handyman to do this task, he does not only clean but also check for any damage or repair needs and much more.
• Painting. If you’re not able to handle some of your painting projects or perhaps you’re just not confident of how its going to turn out, it may be in your best interest to reach out to a skilled handyman.
• General carpentry and home repairs, these includes shelving, cabinets, bookcases, baseboards, framing, doors, countertops, moulding and more.

Accidents happen, and sometimes windows get broken. And that will lead to you wanting to replace just the glass in your window, rather than the whole frame. Also, as windows get older they can mist up on the inside, which means that the unit has ‘blown’ - so you’ll also need to replace the glass. But how much is it to replace the glass in a window? Luckily, if the frame of your window is in good condition, there’s no need to replace it, and this will reduce the cost. For an installer to fit a new pane of glass in a single glazed window, the average cost is £100, while a replacement double glazed sealed unit will cost an average of £110. Of course, as this is an average, if your window is very large you may spend more, and if your window is very small the price may be less. That's why it’s important to get a range of quotes so you can compare costs and get the best price. If you’re good at DIY, you may feel confident enough to have a go at replacing the glass in your window yourself. In that case, the cost of sealed unit and any other materials you need will cost an average of £57. It’s a significant saving, and if you think you can do it, then give it a try. However, if you’re in any way unsure, it’s best to leave it to the professionals. A window installer will be able to replace the glass in your window in less than an hour. Even though it costs more for a professional to do it, if you get it wrong and have to start over it will cost you more in the long run.

Are you about to purchase a double glazed unit and wondering how to go about the replacement project? If yes, then you’re at the right place. Firstly, it’s advisable to hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help especially if you lack proper training and experience in the field. However, we’ve put together this step by step guide to provide you with a detailed information about the double glazed unit replacement process. Let’s get started!

The tools and materials you require for the project includes tape measure, hammers, nail punch, scraper, spacing blocks, non-hardening butyl putty, high-security glazing tape rolls and beading tacks.

• Work out the glass size required. Simply use the tape measure to measure from frame edge to frame edge while also taking note of the thickness.

• When about to order, inform the glass merchant that the measurement provided are frame-tight. This will make him reduce the dimension a little bit, mostly by 5mm for clearance.

• Remove the beading and ensure to support the glass while doing so. If the glass units are fitted in wooden windows, you may need to cut the putty-based compound they’re normally sealed with to remove the glass.

• Lay out the beading in the window’s shape to make for easier refitting later on.

• If you’re working on wooden frames, wipe out all traces of excess installation compound using a scraper and clean the rebate with a soft brush.

• Trial fit the double glazed windows to ensure they’d slide into the frame without being forced.

• Plastic frame windows are usually in between a pair of gaskets, you should replace this with a hight security glazing tape. While for a wooden frame, simply apply strips of flexible non-setting butyl putty or high-security glazing tape on either sides of the glass.

• Install and centralize the glass in the frame.

• Press the nail wooden beading or plastic beading back into place.

• What you need the shed for
• How much space you have
• How big you need the shed to be
• Which style of roof you want
• What material you would like
• How big your budget is

• Hand-crafted from Nordic White Spruce
• Felt roof reinforced with high-grade polyester
• Tongue and groove cladding makes it more weatherproof so ideal for items that must be kept dry

• High eaves for more head height and to store taller items
• Pent roof and fixed windows allow lots of light
• Ideal for putting up against a wall or fence
• Door can be hinged either side

• Ideal for small gardens or those with fewer tools to store
• Apex roof for water runoff
• Tongue and groove walls
• Tall floor-to-gable door

Pitting, also referred to as spalling is the event whereby “pits” or small holes start showing on the surface of your concrete driveway which makes it appear both worn and uneven. Concrete driveway pitting is a common but highly frustrating problem for most homeowners. You’ll see some concrete driveways that’ll only start to pit after a couple of years, but this is not true for all concrete driveways as others will start to show signs only after a couple of months. So how do you tackle this issue? Well, it’s relatively simple to tackle, however if you’re not confident or lack the necessary skills, we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the concrete driveway pitting repair process.

✓ Prepare the pits by cleaning the area, clearing out all debris and more. The small pits can be cleaned with a stiff brush while a sturdy broom will do a good job for larger pits.

✓ Make use of a hose to spray the concrete pits and flush out all remaining bits of waste.

✓ If you’re tackling series of small pits, simply use a caulking gun filled with pre-mixed epoxy and specially formulated for concrete to fill the pits. Clear off the excess eproxy ensuring that its level with the concrete surface. Once done, simply leave for at least 24 hours before the application of a concrete sealant to prevent the wear and tear of the new concrete.

✓ Chisel out a little concrete and clean with a pressure washer. Once done, apply a concrete resurfacing compound mixture into the holes and use a trowel to level off.

✓ Ensure that the repaired concrete driveway is protected from rain and foot traffic for at least 6 hours (or 24 hours for vehicles).

1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.

There are lots of paints that are suitable for different areas of your property. In general, gloss and eggshell paints should be used in high traffic areas, whereas matte paints are suitable for lower traffic areas. Professional painters and decorators can give you advice on the most suitable types of paints.

1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
2. Build a timber frame to size.
3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.