Find a Gutter Installer you can trust in Falkirk.

Fascias and Soffits, just like any other components of a home, do not last forever. They can become tired and worn out over time which implies that you’ll have to replace them to prevent further damage. Getting this project completed can be quite costly, but it doesn’t have to be. Fitting soffits and fascias is very simple task which will leave you with both a modern and contemporary styling which requires little maintenance and also more savings. What’s more? You don’t have to worry about repainting the fascias and soffits on an annual basis, all you need to do is a gentle wipe down of the features with a damp cloth to have them look good.

If you’re a competent DIYer and confident enough to pull off this task, then all the better. However, if otherwise, we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a reliable contractor who can guarantee the best results for help. Here are the steps you can follow to fit your fascias and soffits.

Fascias ( a 18mm fascia board)

✓ This is designed for a direct fix without a need for a timber substrate. Simply secure them directly to the rafters with the help of 2 x 65mm a4 stainless steel fixing nails per rafter.

✓ Ensure that the rafters are level.

✓ Cut the boards back 5mm per edge to enable expansion where any white corner trims, joint trims or angle trims is needed.

✓ Secure the guttering to all third rafter.

Soffit ( 9mm soffit board)

✓ Ensure that the preservative treatment to the structural timber has dried out.

✓ Fix all utility boards of about 100mm to 605mm in width at a maximum of 60mm centres.

✓ If ventilation is needed, there are some soffits that are available in 150mm to 605mm widths and also provides the 10mm air gap needed for roof with a pitch above 15 degrees

Soffits and fascias sit along the sides of your property, over the join between your walls and your roof. The fascia attaches to the end of your roof rafters, hiding and protecting them. The soffit fixes on the bottom of the fascia, bridging the gap between your fascia and wall. Your guttering attaches to the fascia, which also joins to the bargeboard on your gable end, if you have one.

As long as you can access them safely, it’s fairly easy to clean soffits and fascias. Using a sponge and warm water to scrub them is a good way to get off most types of dirt. You might want to add detergent or bleach to the water to make it more effective.

Once you’ve scrubbed your soffits and fascias, rinse them with clean water to make sure you’ve got all of the dirt and detergent off.

• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

To keep water away from your house, the importance of gutters cannot be overemphasized. However, in order to enable them do their job the proper way, the clogging dirt and debris must be thoroughly wiped out and fortunately there are a number of ways to get the job done by yourself. However, it must be stated that cleaning of gutters can be a very dangerous task as it deals with working at heights. As a result, if you are not confident enough to this pull this off, then we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the job effectively and also in a safe manner. In this guide, we’re going to look at some of the ways in which you get rid of dirt and debris on your gutter by yourself.

• Clean the gutter with a leaf blower. Several leaf blowers feature a nozzle attachment which is made to release a narrow stream of air which is suitable for cleaning of gutters. All you have to do is simply to position your ladder to enable you work slowly towards the downspout and getting rid of all dirt and obstructions on the gutter as you go. The final step would be to remove any lingering leaves or twigs using a hose. If don’t want to stand on a ladder to do all these, a specialized attachment is available to add to the blower’s reach.
• Clean the gutter with a wet or dry vacuum. For heavier debris, you can try out a wet or dry vacuum. To reach the obstructed gutters while standing on the ground, simply get curved attachments and hoses at a local home improvement store. You may, however, need to moisten some stubborn dirt before it can be properly vacuumed or removed.after completing the vacuuming process, simply flush the gutters with garden hose waters.

Having ventilation in the roof void is a requirement for building regulations approval. Fitting ventilated soffits is the typical way that this roof ventilation is achieved. If you do not have roof ventilation, you may find that your roof void has problems with condensation or overheating.

The soffit and fascia is the outdoor underside region of your roof which would need to be repaired or replaced when it’s in a critical condition. Your soffit and fascia may actually require more frequent replacement or repair depending on the material that the soffit or fascia uses. If you notice your soffit and fascia needs to be replaced, then you’d probably also like to know how much it going to cost. Well, you’ve come to the right place! The price to replace a soffit and fascia can vary significantly which can be a bit annoying when you’re trying to calculate the overall cost you’ll be expected to pay.

The price of a soffit and fascia is based on the following variables:

✓ The materials you wish to use for the new fascia, soffit and guttering

✓ The type of the property. For instance, semi detached houses may come at a lower price due to the less roof space they require when compared to their counterparts, which can reduce the cost of replacement.

✓ If you’re going to also replace the gutter at the same time will also increase the cost of replacement.

✓ The current overall condition of the roof. For example, if you also have broken or slipping roof tiles, the soffits and fascias can be more difficult to replace, hence, increasing the cost of the project.

Generally, the average cost of fitting soffits and fascias as replacement options for your homes will range between £1200 - £3,000. What’s more? Soffits and fascias normally have a per metre cost. The average price of soffits and fascias per metre can range between £100 to £130 when you opt for a white uPVC option.

In general uPVC is used for soffits and fascias as it is very strong and durable. It also requires very little maintenance. However, wood can be used and is still popular on listed properties as it retains the original material. Older and listed buildings may require more traditional materials to be used.