Find an Electrician you can trust in Thame.

Registered Electricians will certainly work in uniformity with the UK nationwide criterion, BS 7671 - Demands for Electrical Installations. They will certainly provide a safety and security certification for their electric work to verify that the setup has actually been created, built, evaluated and evaluated, based on the standard.

You should guarantee that your selected Electrical installer is signed up with one of the adhering to companies:

• BRE Certification Ltd
• British Standards Institution.
• ELECSA Ltd
• NAPIT Registration Ltd
• NICEIC Group Ltd
• SELECT (Scotland)
• STROMA

The importance of selecting the right size battery for your home simply cannot be overemphasized. A lot of home and property owners are facing this challenge and understandably so. Selecting the right battery size for your needs depend on a number of factors which includes your motive for adding a battery, your electricity usage, your budget as well as your panel array size, be it new or existing. In this post, we’re going to take you through some of these factors to help you determine the right battery size for your home or property. Let’s take a look!

• Your motive for getting a battery. While most people purchase a battery to wipe out their need to purchase electricity from the grid with the hope of making some savings, others add a battery so as to enjoy backup power. There are also some who just needs it to power their home with solar energy. It’ll not be economical to size a battery to effectively take you off the grid, but if your motive is to make savings, then you’ll should expect to purchase some electricity from the grid during the year.
• Electricity usage. The average household uses about 16kWh of electricity on a daily basis. During the daylight hours, most of these household will use a third of their electricity when the solar panels are still generating electricity, while the remaining two third are purchased from the grid. In other words, you’ll require a minimum of 10kWh battery capacity if you were to use a battery to power the electricity you purchase from the grid.

For a typical British household, you’ll most likely need a 5kWh solar power system which normally generates about 17 to 21 kWh on a daily basis depending on your location in the UK.

Fuse box prices will vary and a periodic inspection should be carried out first. However, domestic fuse boxes cost an average of £460. A qualified electrician will advise if yours needs to be replaced and it's always a good idea to obtain a number of quotes before committing to this.

If you’re planning to get an electric vehicle, the next thing that naturally comes to mind is getting a good charger with it. As a result, this is one of the most common questions asked when it comes to electric vehicles. We’ve put together this list of some great home ev chargers to help you make the best informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

• Charge Point Wi-Fi Enabled Level 2 EV Charger. If what you need is a faster charge for your car due to the high frequency of usage of the electric vehicle, then this charger might just be the best option for you. It’s claimed to charge electric vehicle batteries six times faster than a standard 120 volt home system. What’s more? The mobile application will inform you about the amount of charge your battery has regardless of your location. This feature can be of great benefit especially when you’re trying to determine whether to put in an additional hour at work or heat straight home.
• Juice Box Pro 40 Level 2 EV Charger. This is a level 2 charger which features a web based charging control so as to allow you control the charging parts of your vehicle from anywhere, be it in the comfort of your home or office without having to go to the garage or parking lot.
• Siemens VersiCharge VC30GRYU. This is an easy-to-use plug and play installation that comes with a mounting bracket if you happen to own a NEMA 50 receptacle. It boasts a charging time that’s 4 times faster than level 1 electric vehicle chargers and possess a charge delay feature or 2, 4, 6 or 8 hours.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

There’s a need to ensure that all the paperwork are in place,before putting your house up for sale on the property market. An very good example of such essential document is the Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) which is used as a proof to attest to the fact that the electrical installation works carried out on the property in question was actually done and also whether or not it satisfies the building regulations. It’ll be a contravention of the law to put your house up for sale or actually sell it without producing this important document. Therefore, if you’re looking to sell your house you may wish to know the electrical documentations you need to complete the task. In this post, we aim to provide you an in depth insight into the electrical certificates needed to sell your house while also helping you make informed decisions along the process. Let’s take a look!

You’ll need to obtain two certificates in the event whereby the electrical work done was performed by a registered and qualified electrician. The two documents include:

• The Building Regulations Compliance Certificate - This is provided to confirm that the electrical works done complies with the Building regulations.
• The Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC), alternatively you can have a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate which is provided to confirm that the electrical works done satisfies the BS 7671.

In addition, the local building control body must be provided with a copy of these documents. In such an event whereby the electrical work was completed after 2013 and either it was done by yourself or by an individual who isn’t a registered professional, then there’s a need to make sure that work is inspected by a registered third party certifier within 5 days of completion. If the work is found to be satisfactory, you’ll be issued a copy of an Electrical Installation Condition Report.

There are two different types: flat plate, where lots of thin tubes carry water through a flat absorber panel, and evacuated tube, where vacuum glass tubes capture the sun’s energy directly. There is little difference in performance between the two but evacuated tube panels do more obviously extrude from the roof.