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Verified ProOver 50 Reviews

Tree & Garden Designs

63 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
I am a family runed business professional and efficient for 30 years !
Verified Pro

Jds kitchens & berooms

0 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
Supplier and installer of kitchens & bedrooms.
Verified Pro

Beautiful Gardens

0 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
We are a professional landscape gardening business serving Lichfield, Sutton Coldfield, Rugeley and surrounding villages. ...
Verified Pro
We are a company that cover all aspects of the construction industry. Here to provide all customers with the best possible...
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Country Side Gardenscapes

3 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
We are a family business that takes pride in every job we do
Verified Pro

Monarch home improvements

0 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
Here at Monarch Home Improvements, we take great pride in our expertise and craftsmanship when it comes to roofing, fascia...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

22 Jun

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Jo T

Start Date: Immediate

We’re looking for some basic book shelves to be built in either side of our chimney breast,

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04 Apr

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Mr F

Start Date: Immediate

Fit my own loft hatch, and re-plaster ceiling, approx. ceiling size 8x6.

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21 Mar

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Derrick K

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

second stair rail to match original in house built 1959 are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to have done: other do you require a...

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09 Jan

Carpentry

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Harriet G

Start Date: Immediate

I am looking for a built in storage unit for a playroom

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05 Jan

Carpentry

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: David C

Start Date: Immediate

7 internal doors & Architrave 25M skirting board Bespoke unit for wine chiller New handrail for stairs Possible median wall

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13 Jul

Kitchen | Fitting

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Josh P

Start Date: Immediate

Need upstands fitting, and a 70/30 fridge door fitting. Also a box around some piping completed. I have all materials ready to go

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09 May

Interior work | Stud Walls

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Paul R

Start Date: Immediate

Stud wall with door entry

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23 Mar

Garden | Decking

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Tanmay M

Start Date: Immediate

i would like to level my garden , there is bump and uneven surface is there are you the property owner: owner property type: terrace garden type: back garden work required: lawn/turfing, decking curre...

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10 Mar

Flooring | Wooden

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Nick F

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

customer in solihull areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for wood flooring.confirmed interest via telephone, sms and email at 10/03/2023 09:13.please call ...

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10 Mar

Carpentry

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Nick F

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

replacement balustrade and posts on landing (simple l-shape) to about 3m x 1m. also new staircase to install. nothing fancy as it will be fully carpeted so pine/mdf is fine. old stair is a bit steep w...

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04 Dec

Kitchen | Fitting

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Nicola B

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

8m laminate worktop fitted with x2 mitre edge around and induction hob and sink. also lvt click flooring laid roughly 12m2 also wall tiling around worktops. are you the property owner: owner of the pr...

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31 Oct

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Liz B

Start Date: Less than one month

considering changing internal french doors. sizes of doors you can now buy are slightly too big. so will need to be trimmed to fit? my french door size is actually 1060mm x 1960.5mm. french doors stan...

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14 Jun

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Nick H

Start Date: Less than one month

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

replace front door and frame and use to replace a door on the lodge (converted garage), that has small side window. new front door possibly in oak. can send photographs. are you the property owner:...

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21 Jun

Garden | Decking

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: SAMANTHA M

Start Date: Immediate

there is decking to the rear of the house, that hasn't been maintained very well. please can you quote on having the stripped, stained and treated. this is a rental property and we are the tenants ar...

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21 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Rebecca W

Start Date: Immediate

6ft x 8ft metal shed assembly are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) do you have a: large garden what level of service are you looking for: install please call to appoint

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13 Jul

Interior work | Stud Walls

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Rajni B

Start Date: Immediate

building a room brick wall with stud wall plastering property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: supply and plaster are you the property owner: owner of the property how many d...

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10 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Rajni B

Start Date: Immediate

garden maintence like plants and garden tileing and garden shed are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden do you have a: unsure what level of service are yo...

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22 Mar

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Elinor W

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner Property Type: Semi detached Other Forms: Garden Shed, Fencing Agreed to receive quotes for selected products: Yes Please call to appoint

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01 Sep

Garden | Decking

Solihull - B91

Enquiry from: Farah S

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner Property Type: Detached Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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24 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Raj B

Start Date: Less than one month

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: General tidy up, hedges, weeds, removal of old greenhouse, shed, installat...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Solihull is:

£846

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Solihull £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Solihull £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Solihull £638-£978
Wood flooring in Solihull £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Solihull £663-£1,863
Garden shed in Solihull £325-£795
Wooden window repair in Solihull £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Solihull

Carpenter FAQs

How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
Do I need underlay for a wooden floor?

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

What is engineered wood flooring?

What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is produced through the fixing of several layers of wood together with a solid wood as the top or wear layer. Due to its ability to hold its ground when faced with frequently changing temperature and humidity, it happens to be one of the most popular types of flooring. As a result of its ruggedness, engineered wood flooring can be easily fitted with under floor heating and in special areas like conservatories. And apart from its usually stunning visual appeal and ability to be floated over an underlay, the engineered wood flooring is even becoming a lot more popular amongst home and other property owners.

Given the fact that engineered wood flooring is made up of several layers of wood, it may be almost impossible to tell the difference between it and a solid wood flooring just by looking at both. It can also be mistaken for a laminate flooring which is basically an image of wooden flooring placed onto a high density fibreboard.

The planks of a engineered wood flooring is crafted in such a way to ensure the it does not expand or contract unlike the solid wood counterparts. What’s more? There are several benefits that comes with installing an engineered wood flooring. They include:

• Its very easy and simple to install

• When compared to solid wood flooring, it’s more cost effective.

• It can be utilized alongside an under floor heating

• It can be loose laid, meaning it does not need to be fixed in position

• It is available in multiple varieties of wood and finishes

• It can be incorporated alongside an underlay including thermal barriers

• It can be utilized in areas with a fluctuating humidity and temperature.

• It is available in different kinds of thickness.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
How to build a shed base on uneven ground?
Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out.
  1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
  2. Build a timber frame to size.
  3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
  4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
  5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
  6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.
If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

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