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Verified ProOver 50 Reviews

Tree & Garden Designs

63 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
I am a family runed business professional and efficient for 30 years !
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Jds kitchens & berooms

0 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
Supplier and installer of kitchens & bedrooms.
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Beautiful Gardens

0 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
We are a professional landscape gardening business serving Lichfield, Sutton Coldfield, Rugeley and surrounding villages. ...
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We are a company that cover all aspects of the construction industry. Here to provide all customers with the best possible...
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Country Side Gardenscapes

3 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
We are a family business that takes pride in every job we do
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Monarch home improvements

0 review(s)
Offers services in SOLIHULL
Here at Monarch Home Improvements, we take great pride in our expertise and craftsmanship when it comes to roofing, fascia...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

22 Jun

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Jo T

Start Date: Immediate

We’re looking for some basic book shelves to be built in either side of our chimney breast,

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04 Apr

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Mr F

Start Date: Immediate

Fit my own loft hatch, and re-plaster ceiling, approx. ceiling size 8x6.

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21 Mar

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Derrick K

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

second stair rail to match original in house built 1959 are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to have done: other do you require a...

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09 Jan

Carpentry

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Harriet G

Start Date: Immediate

I am looking for a built in storage unit for a playroom

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05 Jan

Carpentry

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: David C

Start Date: Immediate

7 internal doors & Architrave 25M skirting board Bespoke unit for wine chiller New handrail for stairs Possible median wall

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13 Jul

Kitchen | Fitting

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Josh P

Start Date: Immediate

Need upstands fitting, and a 70/30 fridge door fitting. Also a box around some piping completed. I have all materials ready to go

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09 May

Interior work | Stud Walls

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Paul R

Start Date: Immediate

Stud wall with door entry

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23 Mar

Garden | Decking

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Tanmay M

Start Date: Immediate

i would like to level my garden , there is bump and uneven surface is there are you the property owner: owner property type: terrace garden type: back garden work required: lawn/turfing, decking curre...

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10 Mar

Flooring | Wooden

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Nick F

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

customer in solihull areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for wood flooring.confirmed interest via telephone, sms and email at 10/03/2023 09:13.please call ...

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10 Mar

Carpentry

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: Nick F

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

replacement balustrade and posts on landing (simple l-shape) to about 3m x 1m. also new staircase to install. nothing fancy as it will be fully carpeted so pine/mdf is fine. old stair is a bit steep w...

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04 Dec

Kitchen | Fitting

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Nicola B

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

8m laminate worktop fitted with x2 mitre edge around and induction hob and sink. also lvt click flooring laid roughly 12m2 also wall tiling around worktops. are you the property owner: owner of the pr...

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31 Oct

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Liz B

Start Date: Less than one month

considering changing internal french doors. sizes of doors you can now buy are slightly too big. so will need to be trimmed to fit? my french door size is actually 1060mm x 1960.5mm. french doors stan...

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14 Jun

Carpentry

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Nick H

Start Date: Less than one month

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

replace front door and frame and use to replace a door on the lodge (converted garage), that has small side window. new front door possibly in oak. can send photographs. are you the property owner:...

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21 Jun

Garden | Decking

Solihull - B93

Enquiry from: SAMANTHA M

Start Date: Immediate

there is decking to the rear of the house, that hasn't been maintained very well. please can you quote on having the stripped, stained and treated. this is a rental property and we are the tenants ar...

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21 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Rebecca W

Start Date: Immediate

6ft x 8ft metal shed assembly are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) do you have a: large garden what level of service are you looking for: install please call to appoint

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13 Jul

Interior work | Stud Walls

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Rajni B

Start Date: Immediate

building a room brick wall with stud wall plastering property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: supply and plaster are you the property owner: owner of the property how many d...

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10 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Rajni B

Start Date: Immediate

garden maintence like plants and garden tileing and garden shed are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden do you have a: unsure what level of service are yo...

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22 Mar

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B92

Enquiry from: Elinor W

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner Property Type: Semi detached Other Forms: Garden Shed, Fencing Agreed to receive quotes for selected products: Yes Please call to appoint

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01 Sep

Garden | Decking

Solihull - B91

Enquiry from: Farah S

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner Property Type: Detached Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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24 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Solihull - B90

Enquiry from: Raj B

Start Date: Less than one month

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: General tidy up, hedges, weeds, removal of old greenhouse, shed, installat...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Solihull is:

£846

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Solihull £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Solihull £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Solihull £638-£978
Wood flooring in Solihull £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Solihull £663-£1,863
Garden shed in Solihull £325-£795
Wooden window repair in Solihull £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Solihull

Carpenter FAQs

What is the supply cost of wooden flooring

Being the primary material used in wooden flooring installation, the floorboards are the main supply costs. With that in mind, you should also know that there are a large variety of wooden flooring types to select from, each with their unique pros and cons which should all be considered before making a purchase decision. If you’re looking to get the supply cost of wooden flooring in the UK, then you’ve come to the right place! Here is a basic price guide of various and some of the most popular types of floorboards.

If you wish to go for an engineered wood flooring, this looks better when compared to laminate and is more affordable than solid wood. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Laminate flooring, on the other hand, is also quite cheap, easy to install and quite hardwearing, however it tends to warp over time as a result of exposure to moisture and it also happens to be the least attractive of all the other flooring types. You can expect to pay within the range of £10 to about £50 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Solid wood flooring is a great option with a better look and feel to it. However, it also tends to warp over time and more difficult to install as against laminate. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Parquet flooring is long lasting and very attractive, but quite expensive to have fitted.  You can expect to pay within the range of £25 to about £200 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

What should I do if my deck or terrace is slippery?

Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.

How much plasterboard do I need?

How Much Plasterboard Do I Need?

Although many people especially contractors have a tough time estimating the number of drywall or plasterboard needed to complete a project, it’s a rather simple task if all factors are taken into consideration. If you’re able to follow the same procedures taken by professionals to count dry wall sheets, you’ll be in the right direction. Let’s have a look at the procedures to follow!

lTake Square Footage Measurement

• Measure the square footage of the area where the plasterboard will be fitted.

• Multiply the height by the width of each wall or ceiling area.

• Add all quantities to obtain a total square-foot amount.

lCalculate Drywall Sheets

• To calculate the number of drywall or plasterboard sheet is very simple once you’ve gotten the total square footage.

• To get started, simply divide the total square footage of area by 32 (that’s if you are using a 4 by 8 sheets) or you can also make use of 48 to make the division (only if you’re making use of the 4 by 12 sheets).

• The answer you get after the division will give you the full number of plasterboard sheets that’s required to complete the project.

We’d recommend you include an extra 10 to 15 percent of whatever you calculate to take care of the possible odd cuts and wastages. This implies that if your total area is 1600 square feet while incorporating 4 by 8 sheets, simply divide 1600 by 32 which equals 50 sheets, now take 10% of 50 which equals 5, then add back the 5 extra to the 50 sheets earlier calculated to get 55 sheets. If you wish to estimate the cost, simply multiply the number of sheets gotten by the price per sheet. Do not forget to include delivery charges and local taxes.

How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How much maintenance will a wooden deck need?

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

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