Garden | Sheds
Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Ellen M
Start Date: Immediate
small new leak in shed roof. the roof was replaced *** Feb and paid for but roofer has disappeared
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Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Ellen M
Start Date: Immediate
small new leak in shed roof. the roof was replaced *** Feb and paid for but roofer has disappeared
Washington - NE38
Enquiry from: Bill P
Start Date: Immediate
We have 4 doors need fitting - 3 to be fitted to new frames and one to an existing frame. The 3 fitted to new frames will need architrave and all 4 will need hinges and handles thanks
Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Victoria T
Start Date: Immediate
extending a pre existing decking in the back garden. unsure of the measurements as of yet. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do you r...
Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Jason H
Start Date: Immediate
ground leveled and a 6x8ft shed based built are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service are you looking for: supply, install do you have a: large garden please call to app...
Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Michelle G
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: Some decking and the rest possibly flag stones.garden is approx 18ft by 15ft.
Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Kelly G
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the property owner: Owner Property Type: Terrace Other Forms: None Please call to appoint
Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Joy B
Start Date: Less than one month
Flooring (not carpets, but the actual floorboards) needs to be replaced and front door needs to be replaced Time scale: Less than one month Please call to appoint
Washington - NE38
Enquiry from: John W
Start Date: Immediate
Remove grass and established bushes from 4.5 x 6.5 mtr garden. Supply and lay liner and aggregate Time scale: Immediate
Washington - NE37
Enquiry from: Michelle W
Start Date: Immediate
2 large mirror and black sliding doors. 1 a full wall. Discuss further on the day .
Washington - NE38
Enquiry from: Claire M
Start Date: Immediate
Customers own description of work to be carried out: Work description: 4ftx10ft of decking in my garden Supplied and fitted Please contact to appoint
Washington - NE38
Enquiry from: William L
Start Date: Immediate
Property owner: Owner, Work description: living room [carpeted] want hardwood floor approx. 5.5m/3.5m
Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!
Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.
The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.
View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter adviceCarpenter job | Carpenter cost in 2025 |
---|---|
Kitchen Fitting in Washington | £975-£2,495 |
Carpenters and joiners in Washington | £375-£575 |
Plasterboard dry lining in Washington | £638-£978 |
Wood flooring in Washington | £750-£1,150 |
Wooden decking in Washington | £1,125-£1,725 |
Garden shed in Washington | £450-£690 |
Wooden window repair in Washington | £320-£480 |
Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.
Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:
• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:
• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
Click here to learn more about wood flooring.
If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!
First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?
In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.
Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.
Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.
• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight
• Spare conduits: drawstrings
• Soil pipes
• Copper pipes
• Normal pipes
• Doorbell
• Door frames
• Pocket doorframes
• Stairwell
• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)
• Push-fit or other plastic piping
• Electrical back boxes
• Electricity cable runs
• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables
• Socket location
• Security
• Fire alarm
• Sound insulation
• Plasterboarding
It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.
The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.
Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.
Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.
Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.
When you’re building or redesigning your kitchen, one of the most important decisions you’d have to make is your kitchen cabinets. They are basically where you’ll keep everything you use to cook and as such, take up a lot of space in the kitchen. Therefore, if the aesthetic of your kitchen is a priority, then you’d probably want to get the best quality and good looking cabinet you possibly can. If you’re in the market for new kitchen cabinets, you can put these sources of cabinets into consideration. Let’s take a look!
How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard
If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!
• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.
• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard
• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.
• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.
• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.
• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.
• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.
If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.
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