Find a Carpenter you can trust in Bagshot.

Choose from 358 Carpenters, all rated by people like you.

Over 356 reviews & an average rating of 4.5/5 stars, you'll find the right pro

Choose and shortlist

Use the shortlist button to select up to 4 tradespeople, enter your project details and press send

or

Keen to get on with the job?

Get up to 4 quotes from local Carpenters near you

View Shortlist
Verified ProOver 50 Reviews
Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
Verified ProOver 10 Reviews

J Ball & SON

14 review(s)
Offers services in BAGSHOT
J ball and son is a family run business with over 15 years experience, we offer quality fencing at affordable prices, All...
Verified Pro
We are a family run business with an array of experience and knowledge in the kitchen and bedroom industry. We offer the ...
Verified Pro

Jm2TilingCo

0 review(s)
Offers services in BAGSHOT
Here at Jm2TilingCo standards are kept to the absolute highest level. I will always leave a job clean and well done, plus ...
Verified Pro

TruGreen West Sussex

0 review(s)
Offers services in BAGSHOT
TruGreen West Sussex offers a wide range of lawn care services to help make your lawn the central feature of your garden. ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

12 Oct

Interior work | Stud Walls

Bagshot - GU19

Enquiry from: Evelyn C

Start Date: Immediate

We would like to renovate our utility room and we need stud walls/plasterboard with insulation to avoid heat/moisture. Also, we need to overboard the ceiling.

Post a similar request >

08 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Bagshot - GU19

Enquiry from: Annette M

Start Date: Immediate

Customer in Bagshot area made an enquiry for Garden Shed online. Please call to arrange an appointment to discuss options

Post a similar request >

15 Sep

Garden | Decking

Bagshot - GU19

Enquiry from: Jeremy M

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: Replacing of boundary fences. Replacing of decking front and back of house. Layi...

Post a similar request >

12 Jul

Carpentry

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Neil H

Start Date: Immediate

Just had new carpet fitted, would like a taller Skirting Board to the Living Room.

Post a similar request >

11 Jul

Carpentry

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Jeni T

Start Date: Immediate

We are moving into the property and need repairs to the squeaky floor in the attic room, making the room more teenage friendly and advice on modernising a staircase.

Post a similar request >

04 Jul

Carpentry

Reading - RG10

Enquiry from: Rob H

Start Date: Immediate

Hi. Need four internal doors fitted with new fittings plus one extra handle to be replaced on an under stairs cupboard.

Post a similar request >

30 Apr

Carpentry

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Natasha I

Start Date: Immediate

Strange request! Benches!

Post a similar request >

20 Feb

Carpentry

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Jeni T

Start Date: Immediate

I was wondering how much it would cost to rehang a bathroom door so it opens outwards please. Thank you.

Post a similar request >

30 Nov

Carpentry

Reading - RG6

Enquiry from: Penny S

Start Date: Immediate

I moved into my house a couple of years ago and the loft had already been converted into a room (not a bedroom). It had significant condensation, no insulation and dodgy wiring. We have "de-constructe...

Post a similar request >

17 Aug

Carpentry

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Matthew B

Start Date: Immediate

Hello I am just writing this to enquire about any job opportunities or even apprenticeships that might be available now or in the near future.

Post a similar request >

07 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Reading - RG4

Enquiry from: Matthew B

Start Date: Immediate

mr requested quotes for garden shed from a carpenter around reading. they are considering a couple of projects at the moment.call anytime to arrange appointment to discuss. the information below is wh...

Post a similar request >

16 Mar

Garden | Decking

Hook - RG27

Enquiry from: Kerry B

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, I am looking to replace my deck, are you able to come round and provide a quote? Thanks

Post a similar request >

07 Mar

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Hook - RG29

Enquiry from: Vanessa B

Start Date: Immediate

need glazier to replace an indoor wooden framed windowpanel size 170x18cms with an already made triple glazed unit. are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: detached what service...

Post a similar request >

27 Feb

Garden | Decking

Reading - RG2

Enquiry from: Patrick N

Start Date: Immediate

customer in the reading area made an enquiry a couple of projects including wooden decking.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the pro...

Post a similar request >

09 Nov

Carpentry

Yateley - GU46

Enquiry from: Heidi Z

Start Date: Immediate

we need 2 internal doors fitting - one ideally to be shaved down and moved into a current archway (that used to have a door years ago, now just an empty frame), and a new internal door fitted in the o...

Post a similar request >

09 Jun

Carpentry

Reading - RG2

Enquiry from: Farrukh M

Start Date: Immediate

dry wall installation in renovated loft, hanging of 2 new doors, placement of spindles on new staircase, installing second layer of drywall on ceiling of 7 bedrooms, building of separation wall for wa...

Post a similar request >

09 May

Garden | Decking

Wokingham - RG41

Enquiry from: Sandeep K

Start Date: Immediate

we are planning to have a composite deck, we need a quote on how much you charge for it. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do you r...

Post a similar request >

29 Apr

Garden | Decking

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Alan B

Start Date: Immediate

i was thinking of replacing our tired looking wooden decking boards with possibly your anthracite grey ultra decking. the main decking area is 2050x4880cm, a spur off this is 2050x970cm, a step is 177...

Post a similar request >

25 Apr

Garden | Decking

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Carol G

Start Date: Immediate

replacement of composite decking, on existing area. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appo...

Post a similar request >

17 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Reading - RG5

Enquiry from: Agnes C

Start Date: Immediate

grass mowing, care of plants, leaf clearing, patio and driveway swept. i would like you to take any cuttings and mown grass away. are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have ...

Post a similar request >

How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Bagshot is:

£1,073

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Bagshot £1,238-£3,748
Carpenters and joiners in Bagshot £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Bagshot £638-£978
Wood flooring in Bagshot £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Bagshot £663-£3,363
Garden shed in Bagshot £300-£545
Wooden window repair in Bagshot £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Bagshot

Carpenter FAQs

Can I fit a hot tub on my terrace or decking?

Yes, although you should make sure that the terrace or decking is able to support the weight of a hot tub. Usually, you will need to have a structural survey carried out on the area. Seek the advise of a hot tub retailer or installer about the logistics of installing one at your property.

How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
How to put up plasterboard?

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

Who makes the best garden sheds?
Who makes the best garden sheds? While you think there might be a straightforward answer, who makes the best shed for you depends on what you need it for, how much space you have and more. We’ll help you find out who makes the best garden shed for you. What to look for in a garden shed Before you fork out for a new shed, consider:
  • What you need the shed for
  • How much space you have
  • How big you need the shed to be
  • Which style of roof you want
  • What material you would like
  • How big your budget is
Once you know the answer to these questions, you can take a look at some of the best brands of garden shed. Shed-Plus Champion Shed-Plus Champion heavy duty sheds are robust wooden garden sheds that have fully ledged and braced doors and integral ‘lock and key’ locking system. They come with a 15-year anti-rot warranty, so should last you a long time; they’re made from 12mm tongue and groove panels which helps to keep them strong and secure for years to come. Our top pick: 8′ x 6′ Heavy Duty Apex Single Door Shed
  • Hand-crafted from Nordic White Spruce
  • Felt roof reinforced with high-grade polyester
  • Tongue and groove cladding makes it more weatherproof so ideal for items that must be kept dry
Forest Garden Forest Garden makes a range of wooden sheds to suit any outdoor space. They offer overlap sheds, which are the cheapest option, shiplap sheds which are tongue and groove, and premium tongue and groove sheds. You’ll be able to find something to suit your budget and your needs. Our top pick: Overlap Pressure Treated 6×4 Pent Shed
  • High eaves for more head height and to store taller items
  • Pent roof and fixed windows allow lots of light
  • Ideal for putting up against a wall or fence
  • Door can be hinged either side
BillyOh BillyOh sheds are affordable wooden sheds that come in lots of shapes and sizes, so you’re bound to find one to suit your garden. They offer wooden floors as an optional extra as well as lots of other things so you can create a bespoke shed that will work best for you. Our top pick: Master Tall Store
  • Ideal for small gardens or those with fewer tools to store
  • Apex roof for water runoff
  • Tongue and groove walls
  • Tall floor-to-gable door
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
Where should I put my garden shed?

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.

Carpenter help and advice

How it works

Tell us about your Carpenter project

Answer a few quick questions to help us match you with the right Carpenter

Get up to 4 free quotes

Receive no-obligation quotes from 4 Carpenters working in Bagshot.

Pick the right pro for you

Compare prices, customer reviews and services, and hire the right Carpenter.

Are you a Carpenter in Bagshot?

View our open Carpenter jobs near you

Join today
View Shortlist