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Champion Home Improvements

1 review(s)
Offers services in SHEPTON MALLET
Champion Home Improvements are a well established roofing company that has built up an enviable reputation. Our goal is to...
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J & D Home Improvements

0 review(s)
Offers services in SHEPTON MALLET
Hi at j&D home improvements we take pride in our work to make satisfied customers All work in fully guaranteed Ful...
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CHS Landscapes

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Offers services in SHEPTON MALLET
CHS Landscapes cover Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire and provide professional landscaping services to both domestic and co...
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Platinum Fencing Specialists

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Offers services in SHEPTON MALLET
Platinum Fencing Carry out any fencing work that is needed, from weather damaged panels to full take down and replace fenc...
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Multi trade home solutions

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Offers services in SHEPTON MALLET
Serving the local area we take pride in our work . And our reputation have been build on loyalty to our customers over ...
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1st Choice Home Improvements

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Offers services in SHEPTON MALLET
Friendly and local business that’s ready to help anyone and for fill your gardens needs !

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

16 Jul

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Janet B

Start Date: Immediate

I need replacement internal doors upstairs, 4 in total, new handles too. I also need some lvt laid in bathroom, (under floor 6mm waterproof ply I think)

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26 Apr

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Martin B

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

stair case and banisters, either oak spindles or glass panels. possibly under stairs cupboard are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of job are you lo...

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31 Mar

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Joji M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, I would like to repair or replace a conservatory timber doors which is not able to shut properly in winter times. Please let me know if you could do this. Thanks. J Mathew ***

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23 Sep

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Elizabeth J

Start Date: Immediate

Painting & decorating 2 bedrooms, stairwell, living room. Painting some Outside windows.

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04 Sep

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Marie P

Start Date: Immediate

Replace one skirting board in hallway, 10’ 10’’, (3m29cm), (approx). New flooring will arrive soon, so we’d be grateful if you could do this for us.

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23 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Colin K

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

customer in warminster areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for garden shed.confirmed interest via sms and email at 23/07/2024 10:47.please call to arrange ...

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21 Jun

Carpentry

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Anna S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

desk and shelving/cupboards in an alcove area. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of job are you looking to have done: furniture fitting, other do...

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12 Apr

Carpentry

Glastonbury - BA6

Enquiry from: Charles B

Start Date: Immediate

We are looking to replace an old staircase that is mid 1950s and has small steps. Just looking for a simple staircase in similar style

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05 Jan

Carpentry

Wells - BA5

Enquiry from: Duncan M

Start Date: Immediate

I need some wooden shelves put up in 2 alcoves in my kitchen and dining room for kitchen items and office/pc etc items. Thanks

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18 Dec

Carpentry

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Ashley B

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

2 staircases that enables us to from the ground floor into the loft. many thanks. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to have don...

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20 Nov

Carpentry

Wincanton - BA9

Enquiry from: Robyn D

Start Date: Immediate

Hi there, we are just about to purchase a new property at the above address. It needs a lot of work before we even think about carpentry but im retreiving some quotes for when the time comes. ...

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12 Nov

Carpentry

Somerton - TA11

Enquiry from: Ann A

Start Date: Immediate

Shelves fitted in alcove in bathroom

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19 Oct

Carpentry

Glastonbury - BA6

Enquiry from: William C

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

replacement outdoor staircase wanted for a first floor door at the rear of a garage. ideally it would be steel/weatherproof. i look forward to hearing from you. happy to provide a video of the stairca...

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18 Oct

Carpentry

Gillingham - SP8

Enquiry from: Lisa B

Start Date: Immediate

Moved into new build 29/9 & require side door to garage wall cut out & door fitted. Taylor Wimpey recommended you along with A&G Bricklaying.

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15 Oct

Carpentry

Gillingham - SP8

Enquiry from: Emma H

Start Date: Immediate

Hi we are looking for fitted wardrobes in our bedroom which has a pitched ceiling. Happy for it to be just the wooden fitting and we can paint it once we have chosen our colours

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13 Oct

Carpentry

Templecombe - BA8

Enquiry from: Laura B

Start Date: Immediate

Hi there, I would like to enquire about having some fitted wardrobes built.

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23 Sep

Carpentry

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Karen J

Start Date: Immediate

Clock room unit needs adapting - for rental in Dilton marsh

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19 Sep

Carpentry

Wincanton - BA9

Enquiry from: Phil G

Start Date: Immediate

I’ve installed some cupboards, I was looking for assistance in cutting the side trims. I have 4 lengths that need cutting with a table saw, which I unfortunately don’t have. Are you able to assist...

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06 Sep

Carpentry

Wincanton - BA9

Enquiry from: Sue H

Start Date: Immediate

We were flooded in May and the insurance company want a quote to repair or replace our front and back doors. Initially we thought repair but to be honest I think the front door needs replacing as it w...

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30 Aug

Carpentry

Wincanton - BA9

Enquiry from: Nikki G

Start Date: Immediate

A new off the shelf wooden door fitted to an outside office - or major repair - urgently for security reasons

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Shepton Mallet is:

£1,191

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Shepton Mallet £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Shepton Mallet £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Shepton Mallet £638-£978
Wood flooring in Shepton Mallet £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Shepton Mallet £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Shepton Mallet £1,817-£3,730
Wooden window repair in Shepton Mallet £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Shepton Mallet

Carpenter FAQs

How to lay solid wood flooring on concrete?

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
Where should I put my garden shed?

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
Can I install wooden flooring myself?

Are you a new homeowner? Or perhaps you’re simply looking to revitalize your home by adding some new flooring options. Wooden flooring is one of the most popular flooring options amongst home and property owners in the UK due to the multiple benefits it offers. It adds your home’s curb appeal making it stand out while also adding to resale value of your home - should you decide to sell in the near future. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, you have two options which includes carrying out the installation yourself or calling in a professional for help. While some homeowners would prefer to tackle this themselves, it’s highly advisable to get professional support for the project. In this article, we’re going to consider some of the benefits you stand to derive from getting your wooden flooring installed by a professional. Let’s take a look!  Efficient installation. Since professionals do this type of work almost on a daily basis, they’re generally able to complete a basic job within a day or two. With them, you’d be certain that you job would be completed to perfection within a certain timeframe.  Access to a range of wooden flooring options. Professionals are usually familiar with top notch wooden flooring options so they’re able to make recommendations on the most suitable wooden flooring type for your home and needs.  Flooring removal. Professionals typically remove old or existing flooring and clean up the area prior to the installation of the new wooden flooring. This way, you wouldn’t have to bother about hiring someone else to remove the existing flooring or to clean up the entire area before you can be able to install the new wooden flooring yourself.

Who makes the best garden sheds?
Who makes the best garden sheds? While you think there might be a straightforward answer, who makes the best shed for you depends on what you need it for, how much space you have and more. We’ll help you find out who makes the best garden shed for you. What to look for in a garden shed Before you fork out for a new shed, consider:
  • What you need the shed for
  • How much space you have
  • How big you need the shed to be
  • Which style of roof you want
  • What material you would like
  • How big your budget is
Once you know the answer to these questions, you can take a look at some of the best brands of garden shed. Shed-Plus Champion Shed-Plus Champion heavy duty sheds are robust wooden garden sheds that have fully ledged and braced doors and integral ‘lock and key’ locking system. They come with a 15-year anti-rot warranty, so should last you a long time; they’re made from 12mm tongue and groove panels which helps to keep them strong and secure for years to come. Our top pick: 8′ x 6′ Heavy Duty Apex Single Door Shed
  • Hand-crafted from Nordic White Spruce
  • Felt roof reinforced with high-grade polyester
  • Tongue and groove cladding makes it more weatherproof so ideal for items that must be kept dry
Forest Garden Forest Garden makes a range of wooden sheds to suit any outdoor space. They offer overlap sheds, which are the cheapest option, shiplap sheds which are tongue and groove, and premium tongue and groove sheds. You’ll be able to find something to suit your budget and your needs. Our top pick: Overlap Pressure Treated 6×4 Pent Shed
  • High eaves for more head height and to store taller items
  • Pent roof and fixed windows allow lots of light
  • Ideal for putting up against a wall or fence
  • Door can be hinged either side
BillyOh BillyOh sheds are affordable wooden sheds that come in lots of shapes and sizes, so you’re bound to find one to suit your garden. They offer wooden floors as an optional extra as well as lots of other things so you can create a bespoke shed that will work best for you. Our top pick: Master Tall Store
  • Ideal for small gardens or those with fewer tools to store
  • Apex roof for water runoff
  • Tongue and groove walls
  • Tall floor-to-gable door
How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

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