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How much do Carpenter services cost?
Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!
Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.
The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.
View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter adviceThe average price
of a Carpenter in Montacute is:
£943
Carpenter job | Carpenter cost in 2024 |
---|---|
Kitchen Fitting in Montacute | £975-£2,495 |
Carpenters and joiners in Montacute | £375-£575 |
Plasterboard dry lining in Montacute | £638-£978 |
Wood flooring in Montacute | £750-£1,150 |
Wooden decking in Montacute | £1,125-£1,725 |
Garden shed in Montacute | £475-£1,595 |
Wooden window repair in Montacute | £320-£480 |
Carpenter FAQs
Do you have existing floorboards and wish to fit new solid wood floor over it? If you’re planning to go for a DIY effort, there are a number of things you should put into consideration before you even get started. Firstly, you should have it in mind that existing softwood floorboards are usually not flat, implying that the surface of the existing might not be ideal to serve as the foundation on which to put your new solid wood flooring. Secondly, if you’re going to lay the new solid floor on the existing floorboards, it would be wise to select wood that is a minimum of 18mm thick to make your new solid wood flooring a lot more stable.
If you discover that your old floor is not too even, there are two option you can consider to protect your investment. You can lay the new floor at a 90 degree angle over the existing one. In other words, you should lay the new floor lengthways if the old one is laid widthways. Using this technique alongside a method of fitting referred to as secret nailing will go a long way to make sure your installation efforts is a successful one.
The second option you can put into consideration when laying solid wood flooring over old ones is to lay chipboard or plywood over the existing floor prior to the installation of the new floor. Here, there will be an increase in the cost of your installation, however it will be more reliable and durable as it assists in ensuring the stability of your new flooring. Some benefits that comes with this option includes the freedom to lay the new solid wood flooring in any direction you want as well as the freedom to use any fitting method you deem fit. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.
- Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
- Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
- Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
- Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
- Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
- Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
- Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
- Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
- Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
- Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
- Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
- Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
- Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
- Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
- Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
- Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
- Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
- Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
How To Lay Wood Flooring
Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.
Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:
• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.
• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.
• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.
• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.
• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.
• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.
• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.
• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.
• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.
Click here to learn more about wood flooring.
- If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
- Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
- Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
- Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
- Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.
Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.
Are you a new homeowner? Or perhaps you’re simply looking to revitalize your home by adding some new flooring options. Wooden flooring is one of the most popular flooring options amongst home and property owners in the UK due to the multiple benefits it offers. It adds your home’s curb appeal making it stand out while also adding to resale value of your home - should you decide to sell in the near future. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, you have two options which includes carrying out the installation yourself or calling in a professional for help. While some homeowners would prefer to tackle this themselves, it’s highly advisable to get professional support for the project. In this article, we’re going to consider some of the benefits you stand to derive from getting your wooden flooring installed by a professional. Let’s take a look! Efficient installation. Since professionals do this type of work almost on a daily basis, they’re generally able to complete a basic job within a day or two. With them, you’d be certain that you job would be completed to perfection within a certain timeframe. Access to a range of wooden flooring options. Professionals are usually familiar with top notch wooden flooring options so they’re able to make recommendations on the most suitable wooden flooring type for your home and needs. Flooring removal. Professionals typically remove old or existing flooring and clean up the area prior to the installation of the new wooden flooring. This way, you wouldn’t have to bother about hiring someone else to remove the existing flooring or to clean up the entire area before you can be able to install the new wooden flooring yourself.
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