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I am a family runed business professional and efficient for 30 years !
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Hi at j&D home improvements we take pride in our work to make satisfied customers All work in fully guaranteed Ful...
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CHS Landscapes

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Offers services in FROME
CHS Landscapes cover Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire and provide professional landscaping services to both domestic and co...
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Platinum Fencing Carry out any fencing work that is needed, from weather damaged panels to full take down and replace fenc...
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Serving the local area we take pride in our work . And our reputation have been build on loyalty to our customers over ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

18 Dec

Carpentry

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Ashley B

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

2 staircases that enables us to from the ground floor into the loft. many thanks. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to have don...

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26 Aug

Carpentry

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Julia C

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

a new double glazed wooden back door in a single glazed conservatory plus security lock frame - old wooden one rotten are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached wh...

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25 Mar

Kitchen | Fitting

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Christine U

Start Date: Immediate

existing kitchen and utility room will be dismantled, ready to install new units. eleven base units and five wall units for kitchen, plus materials ready to build a bookcase. two base and two wall uni...

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20 Mar

Kitchen | Fitting

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Christine U

Start Date: Immediate

a kitchen refit, and a laundry room. existing units to both areas will be removed ready for rigid carcass kitchen, and laundry room. straightforward in design, but an eye for detail and precision (mit...

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17 Jun

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Duncan S

Start Date: Immediate

we’ve just bought the house and a number of the sash windows are stuck and or the cords are not working. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what service are you...

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01 Nov

Garden | Sheds

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Kevin M

Start Date: Less than one month

Are you the property owner: Tenant (with permission) Property Type: Terrace Time scale: Less than one month Other Forms: 35 Agreed to recieve quotes for selected products: Yes Please call to appoint

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23 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Colin K

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

customer in warminster areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for garden shed.confirmed interest via sms and email at 23/07/2024 10:47.please call to arrange ...

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16 Jul

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Janet B

Start Date: Immediate

I need replacement internal doors upstairs, 4 in total, new handles too. I also need some lvt laid in bathroom, (under floor 6mm waterproof ply I think)

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13 Jul

Carpentry

Bath - BA2

Enquiry from: Nick F

Start Date: Immediate

We have a large piece of contemporary Spanish furniture made approx 20 years ago. It is 2.5 metres long and can best be described as a sideboard/TVtable. We are moving and it doesn't fit. I want to sa...

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11 Jul

Carpentry

Bradford-on-Avon - BA15

Enquiry from: Alistair F

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, We are a house on St Margarets St Bradford on Avon. The 2 fr*** floor sat windows have been painted at some point and need freeing up (I think they were opening ok with the last few years). ...

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29 Jun

Carpentry

Radstock - BA3

Enquiry from: Laura S

Start Date: Immediate

We have a half height cupboard door, which we would like to be replaced with a full height door. Our neighbour, Claire Shaw, recommended your services, as you undertook the same work for her.

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21 Jun

Carpentry

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Anna S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

desk and shelving/cupboards in an alcove area. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of job are you looking to have done: furniture fitting, other do...

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10 Jun

Carpentry

Radstock - BA3

Enquiry from: Elaine E

Start Date: Immediate

We are looking to upgrade/change our spiral staircase and wondered if you could help. We live in a small cottage in holcombe

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24 May

Carpentry

Bradford-on-Avon - BA15

Enquiry from: Emma A

Start Date: Immediate

Morning, We're looking for a carpenter to do a few jobs. Firstly we'd like skirting boards fitted and a couple of little cupboards made to fit in alcoves. These would be bespoke. If you could come a...

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26 Apr

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Martin B

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

stair case and banisters, either oak spindles or glass panels. possibly under stairs cupboard are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of job are you lo...

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31 Mar

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Joji M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, I would like to repair or replace a conservatory timber doors which is not able to shut properly in winter times. Please let me know if you could do this. Thanks. J Mathew ***

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24 Mar

Carpentry

Westbury - BA13

Enquiry from: Ross F

Start Date: Immediate

Do you do a complete building service including minor brickwork? I'm looking to turn an old kitchen into a garden room. Swapping a window for large patio doors?

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23 Mar

Carpentry

Trowbridge - BA14

Enquiry from: Caroline D

Start Date: Immediate

I have wooden casement windows that I would like replaced. It is a grade 2 listed town house. Please can you come and look / quote.

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23 Feb

Carpentry

Westbury - BA13

Enquiry from: Alex J

Start Date: Less than one month

Wooden window repair Lead

we're looking to have a few things done at our home in westbury. first thing we're looking to progress is mdf slat panelling installed in the lounge, with a piece of faced mdf (looks like marble) to ...

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01 Feb

Carpentry

Bath - BA2

Enquiry from: Matthew B

Start Date: Immediate

Looking at straight staircase with square at bottom and two steps Georgian style with dark wood handrail around landing

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Frome is:

£1,191

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Frome £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Frome £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Frome £638-£978
Wood flooring in Frome £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Frome £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Frome £1,817-£3,730
Wooden window repair in Frome £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Frome

Carpenter FAQs

What is the supply cost of wooden flooring

Being the primary material used in wooden flooring installation, the floorboards are the main supply costs. With that in mind, you should also know that there are a large variety of wooden flooring types to select from, each with their unique pros and cons which should all be considered before making a purchase decision. If you’re looking to get the supply cost of wooden flooring in the UK, then you’ve come to the right place! Here is a basic price guide of various and some of the most popular types of floorboards.

If you wish to go for an engineered wood flooring, this looks better when compared to laminate and is more affordable than solid wood. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Laminate flooring, on the other hand, is also quite cheap, easy to install and quite hardwearing, however it tends to warp over time as a result of exposure to moisture and it also happens to be the least attractive of all the other flooring types. You can expect to pay within the range of £10 to about £50 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Solid wood flooring is a great option with a better look and feel to it. However, it also tends to warp over time and more difficult to install as against laminate. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Parquet flooring is long lasting and very attractive, but quite expensive to have fitted.  You can expect to pay within the range of £25 to about £200 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How much is wood flooring?

The cost of wood flooring varies by the type of wood and by the finish required. As a guide though oak solid wood flooring cost about £35 - £45 per m2. The average wooden cost by material are approximately £40 per m2 for pine, £45 per m2 for cherry, £60 per m2 for maple and £75 per m2 for walnut. This price does exclude the laying of the flooring and the underlay required.

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to cut plasterboard?

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

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