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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Isle Of Scalpay is:

£879

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Isle Of Scalpay £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Isle Of Scalpay £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Isle Of Scalpay £638-£978
Wood flooring in Isle Of Scalpay £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Isle Of Scalpay £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Isle Of Scalpay £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Isle Of Scalpay £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Isle Of Scalpay

Carpenter FAQs

How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
How much does it cost to hang a door?

Check your Price's door installation cost calculator and charges guide will allow you to estimate both typical labours only costs for door hanging & installations, renovations and repairs as well as the total estimate for comprehensive door installation projects.

• Door & Frame Installation Job and the average Cost in £'s

• uPVC door installation including glazing & architrave costs around £90 per door

• uPVC french & patio door sets including glazing & architrave costs around £120 per pair

• Softwood french & patio door sets including architrave costs around £180 per door

• Hardwood french & patio door sets including architrave would cost around £250 per pair

• Softwood internal door hanging only would be around £40 per door

• Hardwood internal door hanging only would set you back around £48 per door

• Softwood external door hanging only is around £60 per door

• Hardwood external door hanging would cost around £70 per door

• Locks, letterboxes & door furniture timber doors are around £15 per Item

• Glazing £15 per pane

• Brick cut-outs single doors is around £60 per cut-out

• French or patio door brick cut-outs will be around £90 per cut-out

• New lintels will cost around £150 per lintel

Door Repair Costs and Charges

Estimate door mending labour charges by totalling the unit costs of the mandatory jobs. The complete door repair cost includes the total labour charge plus the cost of all parts, fixtures and fittings. A call out charge may be added on jobs totalling less than £100.

Average Cost of Door Repair Job

Replacement glazing units for uPVC doors will be around £15 per unit

Replacement glazing units for timber doors is around £20 per unit

Replacement door glass pined & putty will cost£30 per pane

Replacement handles are around £10 each and general repair work will cost you £25 per hour

Building & FENSA certificate charges

FENSA certificates are obligatory for maximum door replacements and new build setting up prices differ from council to council.

Average Cost of Window Repair Job: One to two doors will cost around £85

Average Cost of Door Fixtures & Fittings Removal Job

Removing internal doors will cost around £10

Removing internal door liners will cost around £15

Removing external timber doors will cost about £10

Removing External timber door frame will be around £20

Removing external uPVC door & frame removal will be around £30 and Rubbish disposal will cost £150 per ton.

Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
How much maintenance will a wooden deck need?

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

What is plasterboard?

What Is Plasterboard?

The plasterboard is unarguably one of the most common building materials across the globe. Sometimes referred to as gypsum board, gyprock, drywall or wall board, the plasterboard is mostly incorporated for ceiling cladding and interior walls in several homes and offices in recent times. However, despite its global acceptability, it’s a very misunderstood building material.

The plasterboard is manufactured using a gypsum core with a heavy paper covering both sides of the sheet. The measurement of a standard plasterboard sheet is a length of 2.4 metres in and a width of 1.2 metres, with a thickness of about 13mm. The board usually have either a bevelled or a bit flat edge. The bevelled edge makes it easy for the installers to use a plaster to smooth out the surface after nailing the sheets to walls and ceilings as well as taping the edges.

The plasterboard comes in different types. Although various manufacturers provide a unique name for their products, but they’re all included in one of the following categories:

• Water Resistant Plasterboard - This type of plasterboard are best suited to be used in water areas like bathroom, laundry rooms and kitchens.

• Acoustic Plasterboard - Due to its sounding proofing qualities, this type of plasterboard is preferred to be used in home theatres or noisy areas.

• Flexible Plasterboard - This is to be incorporated on curvy surfaces.

• Fire Resistant Plasterboard - Just like the name implies, this type of plasterboard is best suited for use in high fire hazard areas.

If you’re about to kick start some small renovations around your house or office, using a plasterboard to clad your walls is a very simple and worthwhile task. However, if you want to do major renovations or need to apply plasterboard to your ceiling, the best option would be to leave it to a seasoned professional.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to plasterboard a brick wall?

How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall

Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!

lAttach Furring Strips

• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.

• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.

• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer

• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.

• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.

• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.

• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.

lApply Plasterboard

• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.

• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.

• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.

• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.

• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.

• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.

• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.

Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.

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