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Haus 12 Interior

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Offers services in SALTBURN-BY-THE-SEA
Haus 12 Interiors is in the kitchen business for over 25 years, you could say that we know a thing or two about designing ...
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Morespace conversions NE

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Been in the building trade for nearly 30 years there isn't much I haven't done in the building trade. Got all the trades ...
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LNB Services

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Painting and decorating partnership, covering all aspects of decorating, interior and exterior work carried out..we also d...
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Walkers fencing contractors

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Fencing contractor Commercial and domestic

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

01 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Saltburn-by-the-Sea - TS13

Enquiry from: Graham S

Start Date: Immediate

6x4 shed to be delivered and fitted include foundation as required are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service are you looking for: supply, install do you have a: small ga...

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22 Feb

Kitchen | Fitting

Saltburn-by-the-Sea - TS13

Enquiry from: Jill W

Start Date: Immediate

are you the property owner: owner of the property other forms: kitchen design & installation, building maintenance agreed to receive quotes for selected products: yes please call to appoint what leve...

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30 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Saltburn-by-the-Sea - TS12

Enquiry from: Barry T

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden pent shiplap tongue and groove shed 8ft long x 8ft or 7ft front to back with double front doors, no windows.

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16 Jan

Carpentry

Saltburn-by-the-Sea - TS12

Enquiry from: Jo S

Start Date: Immediate

tongue and groove panelling of a 12x12 room in either pine or MDF. Also fit an interior ddor Time scale: Immediate Please call to appoint

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08 Feb

Kitchen | Fitting

Saltburn-by-the-Sea - TS13

Enquiry from: Bridget P

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mykitchenprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Kitchen Area: 54, Property type: House, Work description: B&Q L shaped kitchen - 8 units (inc dishwasher & fridge). Laminate...

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18 Oct

Kitchen | Fitting

Middlesbrough - TS3

Enquiry from: Charisse H

Start Date: Immediate

looking to fit a kitchen

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18 Oct

Carpentry

Middlesbrough - TS3

Enquiry from: Charisse H

Start Date: Immediate

Skirting boards and architrave, and laminate flooring. Also to fit a kitchen

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03 Jun

Carpentry

Middlesbrough - TS5

Enquiry from: Les R

Start Date: Immediate

Can you give me a call please

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22 May

Garden | Decking

Middlesbrough - TS9

Enquiry from: Fiona B

Start Date: Immediate

Need decking installed at bottom of the garden.

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20 Jan

Carpentry

Middlesbrough - TS6

Enquiry from: Michael R

Start Date: Immediate

Supply and fit replacement bathroom door

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12 Jan

Garden | Decking

Whitby - YO21

Enquiry from: Russ C

Start Date: Immediate

remove old decking including rotten posts and joists, on sloping site to rear conservatory. replace and extend to approx 4.5m x 3.5m. finish with composite decking. and steps.. are you the property o...

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24 Oct

Carpentry

Guisborough - TS14

Enquiry from: Andrew W

Start Date: Immediate

replace door to side entrance to garage are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached do you require a door(s): back door what level of service do you require: supplie...

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09 Oct

Garden | Sheds

Middlesbrough - TS4

Enquiry from: Martin D

Start Date: Immediate

make base for 7*5 wooden shed & assemble the shed all the materials for base provided are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service are you looking for: install do you have ...

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18 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Stockton-on-tees - TS19

Enquiry from: Scott S

Start Date: Immediate

build a shed, it’s all in separate pieces and i have the black plastic base also are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) do you have a: large garden what level of service are you lookin...

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10 May

Garden | Sheds

Middlesbrough - TS5

Enquiry from: Kelly L

Start Date: Immediate

wanting some prices on a 4x4 wooden shed with base please are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you looking for: supply, install...

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29 Jan

Garden | Decking

Middlesbrough - TS8

Enquiry from: Peter A

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: semi detached work description: some paving, turf, and a patio area. may require some additional things when...

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21 Jan

Garden | Decking

Middlesbrough - TS8

Enquiry from: Peter A

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Some paving, turf, and a patio area. May require some additional things wh...

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16 Jan

Garden | Decking

Middlesbrough - TS8

Enquiry from: Peter A

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Some paving, turf, and a patio area. May require some additional things wh...

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31 Aug

Carpentry

Middlesbrough - TS7

Enquiry from: Claire T

Start Date: Less than one month

i need 2 rooves re-felting (one shed one summer house) and would like to get my summer house insulated but have no idea where to start! time scale: immediate please call to appoint time scale: less th...

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09 May

Carpentry

Stockton-on-tees - TS19

Enquiry from: Carl H

Start Date: Immediate

hi i need a door filling in and it plastering over and were iv taking the wall down in bedroom the wall and ceiling needs skimming and half in a cupboard aswell thanks time scale: immediate please ca...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Saltburn-by-the-sea is:

£879

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Saltburn-by-the-sea £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Saltburn-by-the-sea £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Saltburn-by-the-sea £638-£978
Wood flooring in Saltburn-by-the-sea £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Saltburn-by-the-sea £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Saltburn-by-the-sea £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Saltburn-by-the-sea £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Saltburn-by-the-sea

Carpenter FAQs

How to lay decking?
Laying simple, ground-level decking may sound intimidating, but it doesn’t have to be. With careful planning and preparation, you can lay decking that you’ll be proud to show off to neighbours, family and friends. Here are a few tips to get you started. Plan carefully Draw out a plan, to scale, on paper. This will help you to know how many boards you’ll need and ensure that you don’t end up having to cut anything to fit. Prepare the area Measure out the site according to your plan and hammer a peg into each corner, then tie string around each peg to help you see what you’re working with. If you’re not laying on existing slabs, dig into the ground, lifting out turf if it’s there, and check that the site is level. Then add concrete slabs for more stability or lay weed-control fabric over the ground and cover with gravel to further prevent weed growth. Build your sub-frame Since a lot of people ask this, we’ve got a more detailed guide in the FAQ below. Lay your deck boards
  1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
  2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
  3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
  4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.
Although this is a simplified set of instructions, it’s enough for you to see whether you want to attempt to lay decking yourself – and if you don’t, you can get in touch with professionals who will be happy to give you a quote.

How to plasterboard a wall?

How To Plasterboard A Wall

If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!

• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.

• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.

• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.

• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.

• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.

• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.

• Cut the end boards to length.

• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.

• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.

We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to lay solid wood flooring on floorboards?

Do you have existing floorboards and wish to fit new solid wood floor over it? If you’re planning to go for a DIY effort, there are a number of things you should put into consideration before you even get started. Firstly, you should have it in mind that existing softwood floorboards are usually not flat, implying that the surface of the existing might not be ideal to serve as the foundation on which to put your new solid wood flooring. Secondly, if you’re going to lay the new solid floor on the existing floorboards, it would be wise to select wood that is a minimum of 18mm thick to make your new solid wood flooring a lot more stable.

If you discover that your old floor is not too even, there are two option you can consider to protect your investment. You can lay the new floor at a 90 degree angle over the existing one. In other words, you should lay the new floor lengthways if the old one is laid widthways. Using this technique alongside a method of fitting referred to as secret nailing will go a long way to make sure your installation efforts is a successful one.

The second option you can put into consideration when laying solid wood flooring over old ones is to lay chipboard or plywood over the existing floor prior to the installation of the new floor. Here, there will be an increase in the cost of your installation, however it will be more reliable and durable as it assists in ensuring the stability of your new flooring. Some benefits that comes with this option includes the freedom to lay the new solid wood flooring in any direction you want as well as the freedom to use any fitting method you deem fit. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to build a shed base on uneven ground?
Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out.
  1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
  2. Build a timber frame to size.
  3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
  4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
  5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
  6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.
If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.
How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
How much is wood flooring?

The cost of wood flooring varies by the type of wood and by the finish required. As a guide though oak solid wood flooring cost about £35 - £45 per m2. The average wooden cost by material are approximately £40 per m2 for pine, £45 per m2 for cherry, £60 per m2 for maple and £75 per m2 for walnut. This price does exclude the laying of the flooring and the underlay required.

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