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Right Pick Fencing

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Offers services in HOLT
Hi our business new and ready for competition! We are able to provide to employees with over 10 years experience that can...
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Nr paving

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Offers services in HOLT
We offer a wide range of Driveways patios building brickwork fencing Block paving tarmac Resin concrete gravel all types o...
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AKM garden services

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I am a landscaping gardening service I cover Norfolk and Suffolk . I cover all landscaping and garden tasks from small to...
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Founded in 2009, Norfolk Landscape Gardeners have set out to provide bespoke, high quality, highly professional gardening ...
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Fenland Fencing

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Offers services in HOLT
We are a small family run business, working locally for all Commercial, Domestic, & Equestrian clients

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

19 Jan

Kitchen | Fitting

Holt - NR25

Enquiry from: Glen W

Start Date: Immediate

to Insall 2x1000 wall units, 1x bridging with extractor beneath, reposition extractor vent,1 x 600 wall unit, in order-1x 300 base+ end panel, lined space for washer, 1000 base unit going into corner ...

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27 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Fakenham - NR21

Enquiry from: Micheal J

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

need a shed roof urgently are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: small garden what level of service are you looking for: supply, install, removal of old please call to appoi...

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22 Jul

Carpentry

Wells-next-the-Sea - NR23

Enquiry from: Barbara F

Start Date: Immediate

I need to replace wooden floorboards by a main window which have been damaged by water seepage.

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02 Jul

Carpentry

Sheringham - NR26

Enquiry from: Iwan W

Start Date: Immediate

hello there, my name is iwan and i’ve been looking at your website the past week because i’ve recently moved into the area and looking for a job. your company stands out to me and really relates t...

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23 Feb

Carpentry

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: Samuel S

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

Hi there, our front door seems to be misaligned and is sticking. I’m not sure whether it has expanded with the wet weather, but it is almost completely impossible to shut. We are around until Sunday...

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03 Feb

Carpentry

Sheringham - NR26

Enquiry from: Christine H

Start Date: Immediate

Hello, please quote for the following: Replacement wooden arched garden gate in a wall H1930mm - W825mm - D47mm Plus, potentially the wooden framework to support the gate Thank you Christine and ...

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05 Jan

Carpentry

Sheringham - NR26

Enquiry from: DAVID M

Start Date: Immediate

VISTA COURT MANAGEMENT COMPANY *** 2024 David Moore Flat 2 Vista Court Cliff Rd Sheringham *** From:- The Fabric Committee. Members:- • Gilles Coulombeau (***) • Richard Young (***) ...

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07 Oct

Carpentry

Cromer - NR27

Enquiry from: Charlie M

Start Date: Immediate

supply and fit or just fit 10 internal cottage type doors . oak veneer b and q doors . are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to ha...

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23 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: Roger J

Start Date: Immediate

I have a tongue and groove garden shed which has an area of damage that needs cutting out and replacing.

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26 Apr

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Norwich - NR10

Enquiry from: Tom C

Start Date: Immediate

looking for wooden window repairs please. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what service are you looking for: other how many windows are involved: 2-3 what mat...

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12 Mar

Carpentry

Sheringham - NR26

Enquiry from: Jenny A

Start Date: Immediate

repair on a dining room table are you the property owner: owner of the property what type of job are you looking to have done: other do you require a door(s): none property type: detached

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06 Apr

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Dereham - NR20

Enquiry from: Nikki C

Start Date: Immediate

we have 3 sash window that require an engineer. one has a broken cord and another two closing too quickly. can you contact the site to arrange a quote for the work?

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15 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: Ruth B

Start Date: Immediate

Garden shed. Around 13 x 6 with doors on the side rather than the end. Needs to be out up please also. Many thanks

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17 Oct

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: Graham G

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Garden shed 8 x 8 or 10 x 6 but has to look nice maybe a summerhouse or similar. Something that will look better than a standard shed but do exactly the thing! Are you the property owner: Owner of the...

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26 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: ADELE S

Start Date: Immediate

Enquiring for my daughter who wants a small shed about 6 x 4 for storing garden tools and lawnmower, no windows required

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14 May

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: Paul A

Start Date: Less than one month

Pent 8x6 shed Are you the property owner: Owner of the property What level of service are you looking for: Supply, Install Do you have a: Medium size garden Time scale: Less than one month Please call...

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22 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: Alison R

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Quote for an 8x12 garden shed that will be used to store bikes and garden equipment. There is no base down yet but it is planned. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have a: Large...

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12 Apr

Kitchen | Fitting

Fakenham - NR21

Enquiry from: Peter F

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Customer visited the mykitchenprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Kitchen Area: 45, Property type: House, Work description: fit new kitchen 13 units already assembled, new solid wood worktop...

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18 Feb

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR11

Enquiry from: Jim H

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Currently have a Shed that needs replacing, it is 6 feet by 8 feet, but could have one a little longer (have space up to 10 feet) footings are in place and level Current Shed is a standard door on on...

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21 Dec

Garden | Sheds

North Walsham - NR28

Enquiry from: Ziccol M

Start Date: Less than one month

I would like to work on a garden design and then have it created, I know I would like a patio, some fencing and a chill out area with fire pit and a children's area. Are you the property owner: Tenant...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Holt is:

£889

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Holt £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Holt £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Holt £638-£978
Wood flooring in Holt £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Holt £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Holt £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Holt £210-£740

Related Carpenter searches in Holt

Carpenter FAQs

Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
How is wooden flooring installed

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

 

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

  • Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
  • With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
  • Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
  • Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
  • Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

  • Make use of a porta-nailer.
  • Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
  • Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
  • Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
Do I need underlay for a wooden floor?

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to lay engineered wood flooring?

The cost of just the engineered wood flooringis from £18 to £73 per m2.

How to put up plasterboard?

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

How much does a stair banister cost?

The flight of steps in your multi-storey household doesn’t have to be purely efficient. With just a little thought given to banister design, the boring flight of stairs can turn into something you would like to show to people and be proud of. Replacement of your banister can even enhance the worth of your property, giving the entry an outstanding presence. But how much will new banisters and spindles cost you?

If you are considering starting with this project, having a help from a professional is always advised.

New banister cost

Banisters are also known as handrails. They are reinforced by balustrades or spindles – a row of pillars that improve the security of the stairway and donate in the direction of the overall look and feel. Banisters and spindles may appear dull due to use over time. A fresh coat of polish might help your staircase get a new facelift.

The cost of new banisters and spindles will fluctuate solely reliant on the material. The price for a new banister starts around £40 for softwood and can reach £120 for a metal one.

Spindle prices are also a contributing factor in determining the cost with prices in the range of £30 to £150 per meter based on the materials used.

How much does a new staircase banister cost?

Hiring a professional is very important when trying to properly install a new banister since they are familiar with the process and work as per safety compliance. Fitting your new banister can be easily taken care by a general builder as well as a carpenter.

Below is a table depicting the average costs of different types of bannisters and spindles:

White oak bannister is around £105 and spindles are around £13.50.

Pine bannister is around £35 and spindles are around £7.

Primed wood bannister costs around £31 and spindles costing around £18.

Metal bannister is around £110 with the spindles being around £6.

How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

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