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Verified ProOver 20 Reviews

M R Contractors

31 review(s)
Offers services in HARLESTON
M R Contractors has grown to become one of the most respected paving contractors in the area. Our attention to detail, unr...
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Nr paving

0 review(s)
Offers services in HARLESTON
We offer a wide range of Driveways patios building brickwork fencing Block paving tarmac Resin concrete gravel all types o...
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Right Pick Fencing

0 review(s)
Offers services in HARLESTON
Hi our business new and ready for competition! We are able to provide to employees with over 10 years experience that can...
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AKM garden services

0 review(s)
Offers services in HARLESTON
I am a landscaping gardening service I cover Norfolk and Suffolk . I cover all landscaping and garden tasks from small to...
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JD Garden & Landscaping

0 review(s)
Offers services in HARLESTON
J.D gardening services provides professional and reliable garden services at affordable prices and covers all of your gard...
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Fenland Fencing

0 review(s)
Offers services in HARLESTON
We are a small family run business, working locally for all Commercial, Domestic, & Equestrian clients

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

28 Dec

Garden | Decking

Harleston - IP20

Enquiry from: Samantha B

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Approx 60ft x 16ft driveway to edge and lay, 10 ft driveway gate to be er...

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13 Mar

Garden | Sheds

Harleston - IP20

Enquiry from: Richard J

Start Date: Immediate

9' x 7'6". Garden shed, door must open on the long side wood or plastic, with or without window, going to be used as overspill storage of household stuff Are you the property owner: Tenant (with permi...

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15 Jul

Carpentry

Bungay - NR35

Enquiry from: John W

Start Date: Immediate

Replace bottom wooden frame of front door

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11 Jul

Carpentry

Norwich - NR14

Enquiry from: Tracey F

Start Date: Immediate

Quote for removing fitted hob and oven to allow freestanding cooker, make good and add a cupboard.

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01 Jul

Carpentry

Wymondham - NR18

Enquiry from: Carrie W

Start Date: Immediate

Paul: can you please call me as I need to arrange a site visit at Burfield Hall this week commenci*** July. Many thanks Carrie

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19 Jun

Carpentry

Saxmundham - IP17

Enquiry from: Julian L

Start Date: Immediate

Recently installed new work surface needs a supporting batten and resealing of the surface edges the to wall.

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14 May

Carpentry

Diss, Eye - IP21

Enquiry from: Solomon M

Start Date: Immediate

Hello, I am a 2nd year carpentry apprentice looking for someone to take me on. I have my own set of tools and my own transport. If this appeals to you please contact me back. Thank you

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13 May

Carpentry

Norwich - NR14

Enquiry from: Simon J

Start Date: Immediate

I'm looking to convert my summerhouse into a garden office. It currently has single cladding and thin pvc doors and windows. So its more the need to insulate and install double glazed door and windows...

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12 May

Carpentry

Bungay - NR35

Enquiry from: Karen E

Start Date: Immediate

Remove old banisters and fit new

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05 Mar

Carpentry

Wymondham - NR18

Enquiry from: Laura N

Start Date: Immediate

Hi We are looking for some bespoke storage shelving to be built within our existing built in wardrobes. Is this something you would be able to quote for please? Thanks, laura

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09 Jan

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Norwich - NR16

Enquiry from: James B

Start Date: Immediate

Replace toughened glass double glazed unit ( about six feet tall by about 20 inches wide ) set in an oak frame. May need to be broken to remove. Thanks.

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10 Oct

Carpentry

Halesworth - IP19

Enquiry from: Abi S

Start Date: Immediate

An internal solid oak bifold door to be put up (3 doors, 1800wide) glazed Thank you Abi

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18 Feb

Interior work | Stud Walls

Norwich - NR14

Enquiry from: Tim L

Start Date: Immediate

removal on internal wall are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many different rooms are you looking to have wall work on: 1-2 rooms what level of service do you...

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22 Nov

Carpentry

Norwich - NR4

Enquiry from: Leslie M

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

supply and fit 8 internal softwood doors0 are you the property owner: owner of the property what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window/doors what level of service do you require: sup...

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30 May

Carpentry

Norwich - NR4

Enquiry from: Josh U

Start Date: Immediate

hi i am emailing from the maintenance department for our dominos stores. we have an issue with our front door, it is touching the floor causing scratches. we are due to get our flooring refitted in t...

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07 May

Garden | Sheds

Wymondham - NR18

Enquiry from: Keith B

Start Date: Immediate

dismantle and remove wooden garden shed, small amount of building rubble, 1 composting bin, assorted plant cuttings, small amount of bamboo canes and wood, 1 or 2 pieces of metal. are you the property...

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12 Aug

Interior work | Stud Walls

Diss - IP22

Enquiry from: Alex W

Start Date: Immediate

we need a partition wall removing and the light switches and plug sockets repositioning. a new door to be placed and in a separate room a partition wall putting up with a door to create a corridor. a...

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23 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Saxmundham - IP17

Enquiry from: Dina G

Start Date: Immediate

2 sheds removing, 1 large and 1 small, the site to be left clear. replacing with a dutch barn bought by us. are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: small garden what level o...

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12 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Norwich - NR4

Enquiry from: Jayne O

Start Date: Immediate

customer has a gardening & landscaping project they are looking to have done, specially they want quotes for garden shed. they are unsure of options so would like to discuss with a carpenter.confirmed...

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12 Jun

Garden | Decking

Norwich - NR4

Enquiry from: Jayne O

Start Date: Immediate

customer has a gardening & landscaping project they are looking to have done, specially they want quotes for wooden decking. they are unsure of options so would like to discuss with a landscaper.confi...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Harleston is:

£889

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Harleston £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Harleston £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Harleston £638-£978
Wood flooring in Harleston £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Harleston £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Harleston £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Harleston £210-£740

Related Carpenter searches in Harleston

Carpenter FAQs

How to plasterboard a wall?

How To Plasterboard A Wall

If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!

• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.

• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.

• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.

• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.

• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.

• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.

• Cut the end boards to length.

• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.

• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.

We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
Where can I buy kitchen cabinets?

When you’re building or redesigning your kitchen, one of the most important decisions you’d have to make is your kitchen cabinets. They are basically where you’ll keep everything you use to cook and as such, take up a lot of space in the kitchen. Therefore, if the aesthetic of your kitchen is a priority, then you’d probably want to get the best quality and good looking cabinet you possibly can. If you’re in the market for new kitchen cabinets, you can put these sources of cabinets into consideration. Let’s take a look!

  • IKEA. One of the best place to buy affordable home goods is also a great place to check if you want to buy your kitchen cabinets. According to a research carried out by J.D Power which surveyed over 1500 customers within the past one year, IKEA’s cabinet system ( Sektion) ranked the highest in terms of the overall satisfaction.
  • KraftMaid. Another winner of the survey conducted by J.D Power as it took the second position when it comes to the overall satisfaction. Therefore, this store happens to be a good option based on the reviews. This store provides you with a wide variety of colour options to select from, so regardless of what your personal preference is, you’re guaranteed to find something worthwhile to install in your kitchen.
  • Stoffer Home. When you buy your kitchen cabinet from an interior designer, there’s a better chance for suitability. Stoffer home offers top quality cabinets which can be manufactured in four various wood finishes and twelve varying paint colours which are all carefully curated.
How to fit wooden flooring?

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

What is engineered wood flooring?

What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is produced through the fixing of several layers of wood together with a solid wood as the top or wear layer. Due to its ability to hold its ground when faced with frequently changing temperature and humidity, it happens to be one of the most popular types of flooring. As a result of its ruggedness, engineered wood flooring can be easily fitted with under floor heating and in special areas like conservatories. And apart from its usually stunning visual appeal and ability to be floated over an underlay, the engineered wood flooring is even becoming a lot more popular amongst home and other property owners.

Given the fact that engineered wood flooring is made up of several layers of wood, it may be almost impossible to tell the difference between it and a solid wood flooring just by looking at both. It can also be mistaken for a laminate flooring which is basically an image of wooden flooring placed onto a high density fibreboard.

The planks of a engineered wood flooring is crafted in such a way to ensure the it does not expand or contract unlike the solid wood counterparts. What’s more? There are several benefits that comes with installing an engineered wood flooring. They include:

• Its very easy and simple to install

• When compared to solid wood flooring, it’s more cost effective.

• It can be utilized alongside an under floor heating

• It can be loose laid, meaning it does not need to be fixed in position

• It is available in multiple varieties of wood and finishes

• It can be incorporated alongside an underlay including thermal barriers

• It can be utilized in areas with a fluctuating humidity and temperature.

• It is available in different kinds of thickness.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Do I need underlay for a wooden floor?

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

Does my garden shed need a base?

Yes, your shed does need a base. This is to give it a solid, level foundation. Open soil will not help with the longevity of the shed itself or the contents within. The best materials to use to make your shed base are concrete, natural stone or wood.

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