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Verified Pro

K&D joinery

0 review(s)
Offers services in LOANHEAD
We’re just a small building firm with just 10 men We cover all areas from Glasgow. Edinburgh. Perth. Dundee Fife. Stirl...
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Garden Bros

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Offers services in LOANHEAD
Garden Clean - ups & First cuts We are a Family run, Fully insured business. We are reliable, trustworthy and are reaso...
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Composite Decking Glasgow

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Offers services in LOANHEAD
Composite Decking Glasgow was founded in 2008 and remains a family-operated venture. Our inception was driven by a singula...
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Boxelder Landscapes

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Offers services in LOANHEAD
We have the hard landscaping skills to create your dream garden. Working from a idea or along side designers and architect...
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Hutchison garden services

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Offers services in LOANHEAD
Landscaping business Fencing decking turf driveways paving
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All garden work private contract professional qualified gardeners at competitive prices no job too small

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

05 Oct

Garden | Decking

Loanhead - EH20

Enquiry from: Manik K

Start Date: Immediate

customer in loanhead area has requested that we arrange quotes for their wooden decking project.they are considering various options and would like to discuss with a carpenter directly.please call to ...

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04 Jun

Garden | Decking

Loanhead - EH20

Enquiry from: Alex F

Start Date: Immediate

Decking needs stripped, sealed and stalled.

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05 Apr

Interior work | Stud Walls

Loanhead - EH20

Enquiry from: Catherine W

Start Date: Immediate

2 bedrooms to get dry lining plastered, sizes are 3.52m x3.98 and 3.75m x 3.98

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04 Jan

Carpentry

Loanhead - EH20

Enquiry from: George S

Start Date: Immediate

Small porch for mobile home

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19 Dec

Carpentry

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: David C

Start Date: Immediate

I have an internal door that needs to be moved about three feet from where it currently is. The whole timber door frame would need to be moved or a new frame built for it.

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27 Sep

Carpentry

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Amer M

Start Date: Immediate

bath door cutting and fixing only are you the property owner: owner of the property what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window/doors do you require a door(s): none time scale: immedi...

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23 Aug

Carpentry

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Jim B

Start Date: Immediate

cut doors to size and ha***ors. are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: semi detached what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window/doors how many windows do you ne...

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20 May

Garden | Decking

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Susan M

Start Date: Immediate

deck to be cleaned, sanded & restained are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what level of service do you require: deck only please call to appoint

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16 Apr

Garden | Decking

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Niku S

Start Date: Immediate

full back garden decking work are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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13 Apr

Carpentry

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Jennifer H

Start Date: Less than one month

3...?..6 panel white internal doors suppliedcand fitted are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window/doors do y...

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30 Jan

Garden | Decking

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Jacqueline G

Start Date: Immediate

customer in edinburgh area has requested that we arrange quotes for their wooden decking project.mrs are considering various options and would like to discuss with a carpenter directly.please call to ...

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09 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: James M

Start Date: Immediate

customer made an online enquiry for garden shed and confirmed on sms and email they would like a call with a carpenter to discuss prices.please call to arrange an appointment to quote. are you the pro...

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02 Mar

Garden | Decking

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Garry A

Start Date: Immediate

hi there, i would like a garden deck installed and i require a supply and fit professional service to create a composite structured deck area. the size of the decked area would be approx 24ft x 12ft....

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21 Oct

Interior work | Stud Walls

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Lorraine R

Start Date: Immediate

one stud wall to split a living room in two. for my disabled sons house. he is vat excempt for most building works or projects due to this. need a job done asap due to a time restriction. are you the ...

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14 Oct

Garden | Sheds

Silverburn - EH26

Enquiry from: Joan R

Start Date: Immediate

wood greenhouse 6x8 and wood shed 6x4

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30 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Lisa J

Start Date: Immediate

we are looking for someone to lay a concrete shed base (***) in our back garden - we have the shed, we just need a strong base to secure it on to! either that, or slabs put down and fitted to the shed...

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18 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Anastasia P

Start Date: Immediate

to built a shed that i bought 4x6. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you looking for: install please call to appoint

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21 Jul

Carpentry

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Shirley M

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

i am looking to have a log cabin assembled. this would include laying a base (prefer the new plastic base rather than cement but will take advise), also to have electricity installed. time scale: 1-3 ...

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17 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Bonnyrigg - EH19

Enquiry from: William G

Start Date: Immediate

sturdy wooden garden shed door on front and no windows. size 11feet x6 feet would have to be erected. thanks w,geddes

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09 Jun

Garden | Decking

Edinburgh - EH54

Enquiry from: Tom G

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: semi detached, work description: require quote for an upgrade to my drive & for new patios. cheers tom. are ...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Loanhead is:

£807

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Loanhead £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Loanhead £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Loanhead £638-£978
Wood flooring in Loanhead £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Loanhead £613-£1,363
Garden shed in Loanhead £275-£845
Wooden window repair in Loanhead £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Loanhead

Carpenter FAQs

What is the difference between a carpenter and a joiner?

Most of the people out there do not know the difference between a carpenter and a joiner. This is a very common question that is asked by many as to whether there is an actual difference between the two.

Both joiners and carpenters have many shared traits. The definition seems to change throughout the UK. The southern parts use the term carpenter whereas the north seems to prefer the term joiner. Both of these trades involve working with wood mainly in the construction industry. Both of them are, however, are two very unique and separate trades. Both of them come under the broad term of ‘carpentry’ however their skills and specialisms differ.

A joiner is defined as a trained craftsman who is responsible for making or joining wood in a workshop. On the other hand, a carpenter is a professional that works on site with the timber. In summary, a joined creates the wood back at the workshop while the carpenter fixes them on site. A joiner, therefore, works on things that are done in a workshop using machinery while a carpenter is responsible for its assembly on site.

As both joiners and carpenters had learnt the basics of both trade while they were practising as an apprentice, several similar overlaps are bound to occur.

It is good practice to ask the company or the individual what trade they specialise in. As an example, a joiner may be able to make a particular item whereas a carpenter may be better doing the actual fitting.

It is evident from the above sections that carpentry and joinery are completely different and therefore, should be categorised under two different trades, however, there is indeed a lot in common in their extremely high skilled work.

How much plasterboard do I need?

How Much Plasterboard Do I Need?

Although many people especially contractors have a tough time estimating the number of drywall or plasterboard needed to complete a project, it’s a rather simple task if all factors are taken into consideration. If you’re able to follow the same procedures taken by professionals to count dry wall sheets, you’ll be in the right direction. Let’s have a look at the procedures to follow!

lTake Square Footage Measurement

• Measure the square footage of the area where the plasterboard will be fitted.

• Multiply the height by the width of each wall or ceiling area.

• Add all quantities to obtain a total square-foot amount.

lCalculate Drywall Sheets

• To calculate the number of drywall or plasterboard sheet is very simple once you’ve gotten the total square footage.

• To get started, simply divide the total square footage of area by 32 (that’s if you are using a 4 by 8 sheets) or you can also make use of 48 to make the division (only if you’re making use of the 4 by 12 sheets).

• The answer you get after the division will give you the full number of plasterboard sheets that’s required to complete the project.

We’d recommend you include an extra 10 to 15 percent of whatever you calculate to take care of the possible odd cuts and wastages. This implies that if your total area is 1600 square feet while incorporating 4 by 8 sheets, simply divide 1600 by 32 which equals 50 sheets, now take 10% of 50 which equals 5, then add back the 5 extra to the 50 sheets earlier calculated to get 55 sheets. If you wish to estimate the cost, simply multiply the number of sheets gotten by the price per sheet. Do not forget to include delivery charges and local taxes.

How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.
How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
What is engineered wood flooring?

What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is produced through the fixing of several layers of wood together with a solid wood as the top or wear layer. Due to its ability to hold its ground when faced with frequently changing temperature and humidity, it happens to be one of the most popular types of flooring. As a result of its ruggedness, engineered wood flooring can be easily fitted with under floor heating and in special areas like conservatories. And apart from its usually stunning visual appeal and ability to be floated over an underlay, the engineered wood flooring is even becoming a lot more popular amongst home and other property owners.

Given the fact that engineered wood flooring is made up of several layers of wood, it may be almost impossible to tell the difference between it and a solid wood flooring just by looking at both. It can also be mistaken for a laminate flooring which is basically an image of wooden flooring placed onto a high density fibreboard.

The planks of a engineered wood flooring is crafted in such a way to ensure the it does not expand or contract unlike the solid wood counterparts. What’s more? There are several benefits that comes with installing an engineered wood flooring. They include:

• Its very easy and simple to install

• When compared to solid wood flooring, it’s more cost effective.

• It can be utilized alongside an under floor heating

• It can be loose laid, meaning it does not need to be fixed in position

• It is available in multiple varieties of wood and finishes

• It can be incorporated alongside an underlay including thermal barriers

• It can be utilized in areas with a fluctuating humidity and temperature.

• It is available in different kinds of thickness.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

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