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Champion Home Improvements are a well established roofing company that has built up an enviable reputation. Our goal is to...
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J & D Home Improvements

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Offers services in FERNDALE
Hi at j&D home improvements we take pride in our work to make satisfied customers All work in fully guaranteed Ful...
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BGD Building and Roofing

2 review(s)
Offers services in FERNDALE
Hard working clean building and roofing boys ready for the next care and repair
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Platinum Fencing Carry out any fencing work that is needed, from weather damaged panels to full take down and replace fenc...
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Serving the local area we take pride in our work . And our reputation have been build on loyalty to our customers over ...
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The Grass Master

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Offers services in FERNDALE
Established in 2006 The Grass Master Ltd has completed hundreds of landscaping projects across Kent. We cover Artificial L...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

09 May

Garden | Sheds

Ferndale - CF43

Enquiry from: Merle L

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the myroofingquotes.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: House, Roof type: Flat, Work description: Profile steel shed roof repair , guttering

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27 Jul

Kitchen | Fitting

Ferndale - CF43

Enquiry from: Audrey D

Start Date: Immediate

Just worktops fitted

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19 Mar

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Tonypandy - CF40

Enquiry from: Jonathan L

Start Date: Immediate

window above front door in wooden frame needs replacement. size : width of door height about half that. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what service are you look...

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11 Oct

Carpentry

Aberdare - CF44

Enquiry from: Angela D

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

new skirting boards fitted are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached what type of job are you looking to have done: other do you require a door(s): none time sc...

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16 Jul

Carpentry

Bridgend - CF32

Enquiry from: Miss E

Start Date: Immediate

How much would it cost to fit to floor kitchen cupboards and a work top

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26 Jun

Garden | Decking

Maesteg - CF34

Enquiry from: Kim D

Start Date: Immediate

Full decking replacement and back fencing.

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15 Jun

Carpentry

Port Talbot - SA13

Enquiry from: Spencer C

Start Date: Immediate

I need my staircase to be repaired or replaced. I also have some cupboards to be built and some boxing in of pipework ect

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23 May

Carpentry

Bridgend - CF32

Enquiry from: Wayne C

Start Date: Immediate

All living room and hallway skirting and door acitrave removed and replaced, preferable pvc skirting. And fit 5 new doors

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18 May

Garden | Decking

Bridgend - CF31

Enquiry from: Sabrina J

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, Just enquiring if I can get someone to have a look at my decking for a quote to see if some of the old decking slats can be replaced. I had someone replace some of them before so some are i...

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16 May

Carpentry

Port Talbot - SA13

Enquiry from: Lynne N

Start Date: Immediate

We have had a new bathroom suite and require to have all the pipes boxed in, the bath panel requires cutting to fit around the bath. We have also had a new boiler and require the pipes beneath it to b...

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09 May

Carpentry

Bridgend - CF31

Enquiry from: Peter B

Start Date: Immediate

Supply and fit a loft ladder.

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07 May

Carpentry

Port Talbot - SA13

Enquiry from: Lornique M

Start Date: Immediate

Skirting already provided -Archatrais stair glass banister

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03 May

Carpentry

Pentre - CF41

Enquiry from: Margaret P

Start Date: Immediate

Handrail up stairs and handrail up 5 steps in garden

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30 Apr

Carpentry

Port Talbot - SA13

Enquiry from: Leigh B

Start Date: Immediate

3 x bedroom doors fitted alterations to the bottom stair well height due to new building regulations banister installed.

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28 Mar

Carpentry

Bridgend - CF32

Enquiry from: Debra R

Start Date: Immediate

How much world it be to fit 3 oak doors 1 slider 2 standard I have handles and homes pack too?

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26 Mar

Garden | Decking

Tonypandy - CF40

Enquiry from: Conrad R

Start Date: Immediate

Full decking over garden

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22 Mar

Carpentry

Pontyclun - CF72

Enquiry from: Nicola A

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, I would like a quote for supplying and constructing a garden wooden pergola, approx 3x4 metres. Thanks

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19 Mar

Carpentry

Bridgend - CF32

Enquiry from: Alison K

Start Date: Immediate

We have 3 internal doors that need to be adjusted as they were not correctly installed. One door that needs to be hung. A large mirror that need to be hung. Also, depending on cost we need some skirti...

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12 Mar

Carpentry

Port Talbot - SA13

Enquiry from: Jordan W

Start Date: Immediate

Hello, I’m trying to get a quote for a living room door with a lock fitted It needs to be a sturdy door with a lock due to my sons autism If someone could get back to me to discuss , social servic...

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12 Mar

Carpentry

Tonypandy - CF40

Enquiry from: Kellen H

Start Date: Immediate

Looking for someone to build some units/shelfs/storage/cupboards in small utility room,

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Ferndale is:

£943

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Ferndale £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Ferndale £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Ferndale £638-£978
Wood flooring in Ferndale £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Ferndale £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Ferndale £475-£1,595
Wooden window repair in Ferndale £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Ferndale

Carpenter FAQs

What does a carpenter do?

Carpenters are involved with numerous diverse kinds of construction, from home improvement to cabinet making, and framing to large construction projects.

Since the start of time, men have utilised hand tools to make things. You need to understand the correct usage of a hand saw, hammer, plane, screwdriver, and other manual tools. These tools are used to attach ready pieces and produce a complete product, such as nails, screws, and dowels (pre-formed fragments of wood that fit into pre-drilled holes), which are then fastened and amassed.

Carpenters must be adept with the safety and proper usage of numerous power tools, including the ones that do the cutting, shaping, and refining of the wood. This permits constituents to take the arrangement desired for a specific project. Some of these tools include large table saws and drills, band saws and sanders. Apart from power tools, there are also tons of power hand tools including saws and hand drills that can help with the smaller details of any project.

Cabinetry and Furniture Making

Being a cabinet fabricator or furniture maker gives you the chance to build purposeful devices for a home. You need to be able to plan cabinets, chairs, tables, and other products, frequently to fit into a provided space. It is up to you to pick the proper material such as wood, metal, or fabric, and then make the decision about the type of stain or paint, and also the necessary hardware needed to attach the cabinets and complete the furniture.

Residential Carpentry

Looking to become a residential carpenter? Your primary work would be on home improvement and other repair projects; indoors and outdoors. Residential carpenters complete setting up projects on wood flooring, outdoor decks, and patios. This job requires you to design your projects and then work on those designs. You also have to be skilful at work with your client base of proprietors, who you have to satisfy both aesthetically and financially, by keeping costs in check.

How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
What is second fix carpentry?

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to lay decking?
Laying simple, ground-level decking may sound intimidating, but it doesn’t have to be. With careful planning and preparation, you can lay decking that you’ll be proud to show off to neighbours, family and friends. Here are a few tips to get you started. Plan carefully Draw out a plan, to scale, on paper. This will help you to know how many boards you’ll need and ensure that you don’t end up having to cut anything to fit. Prepare the area Measure out the site according to your plan and hammer a peg into each corner, then tie string around each peg to help you see what you’re working with. If you’re not laying on existing slabs, dig into the ground, lifting out turf if it’s there, and check that the site is level. Then add concrete slabs for more stability or lay weed-control fabric over the ground and cover with gravel to further prevent weed growth. Build your sub-frame Since a lot of people ask this, we’ve got a more detailed guide in the FAQ below. Lay your deck boards
  1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
  2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
  3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
  4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.
Although this is a simplified set of instructions, it’s enough for you to see whether you want to attempt to lay decking yourself – and if you don’t, you can get in touch with professionals who will be happy to give you a quote.

How is wooden flooring installed

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

 

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

  • Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
  • With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
  • Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
  • Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
  • Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

  • Make use of a porta-nailer.
  • Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
  • Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
  • Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
How to fit wooden flooring?

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

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