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Austin Evill Construction

0 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Time Served Bricklayer 35 years in the construction industry, project manage jobs for various clients since 1989. Extensio...
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Total Roof Care

9 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Total Roofing Services - Your Trusted Roof Specialists Hey there! We're total Roofing Services, and we're here to take t...
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Simply Doors

0 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
With over 10 years experience in the trade we are a local family run home improvement company specialising in Upvc and com...
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Jds kitchens & berooms

0 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Supplier and installer of kitchens & bedrooms.
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Beautiful Gardens

0 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
We are a professional landscape gardening business serving Lichfield, Sutton Coldfield, Rugeley and surrounding villages. ...
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Value Floors Hall Green

0 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Here at Value Floors, we offer flooring products such as laminate flooring, engineered flooring, wood flooring, flooring i...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

24 Jun

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE11

Enquiry from: Rick T

Start Date: Immediate

I need to replace 3 x kitchen worktops. The space is not too long but it does have the sink in it. I also need to get a quote for installing a breakfast bar in the ground floor kitchen. Let...

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11 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Coalville, Ibstock, Markfield - LE67

Enquiry from: Tracey R

Start Date: Immediate

customer in coalville, ibstock, markfield area has requested that we arrange quotes for their garden shed project.they are considering various options and would like to discuss with a carpenter direct...

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12 May

Carpentry

Leicester - LE9

Enquiry from: Lee S

Start Date: Immediate

Landing balustrade moving. New windowsill. 1 kitchen cupboard door adjustment. New kitchen end panel.

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11 May

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Freddy H

Start Date: Immediate

i bought new tv stand and it comes apart i need a help to add it together to foam it please are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what type of job are you looking to ...

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08 May

Carpentry

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: KALWINDER D

Start Date: Immediate

Glass staircase and spiral staircase

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04 May

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Loughborough - LE11

Enquiry from: Leanne M

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

single glazed wooden bathroom opening window is rotten along the bottom and a bit up the sides. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached what service are you l...

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23 Apr

Carpentry

Hinckley - LE10

Enquiry from: Michael M

Start Date: Immediate

Loft Ladder installation.

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23 Feb

Carpentry

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Mir M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, We got squeaky under carpet floor, which needs fixing.

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23 Feb

Carpentry

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Vinesh D

Start Date: Immediate

Staircase repair/refurbishment

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19 Feb

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Andy G

Start Date: Immediate

Repair and/or replacement of wood in conservatory.

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30 Jan

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Ben H

Start Date: Immediate

all internal wooden doors need one reversing so it opens the other way 3 doors need shaving off the bottom so the fit. new bathroom door lock needs fitting, it’s the sort we’re lock is interstate...

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29 Jan

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Ben H

Start Date: Immediate

all internal wooden doors one needs reversing to open the other way 3 need to have bottoms shaved to fit better 1 bathroom door lock (internal with lock attached to handle) need replacing. are you th...

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23 Jan

Carpentry

Leicester - LE7

Enquiry from: Ruth G

Start Date: Immediate

a side gate with surround and lock please. needed as soon as possible for safety and aesthetics. in rothley. are you the property owner: owner of the property what type of job are you looking to have ...

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08 Dec

Garden | Sheds

Leicester - LE5

Enquiry from: SHASHI P

Start Date: Immediate

a exsisting cabinet needs to be fitted in the kitchen ans need a new garden shed are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you look...

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14 Nov

Interior work | Stud Walls

Leicester - LE5

Enquiry from: Mohamed Z

Start Date: Immediate

Stud Wall & Plasterboard about 60sq meters

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23 Sep

Carpentry

Lutterworth - LE17

Enquiry from: Paul W

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, my name is Paul Wood and I’m emailing from Coltman Brothers Ltd timber merchants in Ashby Magna, Lutterworth and wondered if we could help supply timber for any of your projects coming up? / Nee...

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13 Sep

Carpentry

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Shazmin M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, trying to get in touch with Joody and just can’t.

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23 May

Garden | Sheds

Leicester - LE4

Enquiry from: Kamlesh R

Start Date: Immediate

to install new metal garden shed 8×6 feet purchasing from argos. also remove old wooden shed and get rid off wood are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden

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11 May

Garden | Sheds

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Lisa G

Start Date: Immediate

miss requested quotes for garden shed from a carpenter around leicester. they are considering a couple of projects at the moment.call anytime to arrange appointment to discuss. the information below i...

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31 Mar

Garden | Decking

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Ray D

Start Date: Immediate

repair decking structure and lsy new floor are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Leicestershire is:

£968

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Leicestershire £1,738-£2,998
Carpenters and joiners in Leicestershire £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Leicestershire £638-£978
Wood flooring in Leicestershire £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Leicestershire £663-£1,863
Garden shed in Leicestershire £325-£795
Wooden window repair in Leicestershire £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Leicestershire

Carpenter FAQs

How to dot and dab plasterboard?

How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.
How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to build a shed base on uneven ground?
Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out.
  1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
  2. Build a timber frame to size.
  3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
  4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
  5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
  6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.
If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.
How to fit plasterboard?

How To Fit Plasterboard

If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.

To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.

Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.

• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit

• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.

• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.

• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.

How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!

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