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Austin Evill Construction

0 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Time Served Bricklayer 35 years in the construction industry, project manage jobs for various clients since 1989. Extensio...
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Essential Paving

46 review(s)
Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Hi my name is Sam I'm the owner of essential paving we are a family run Business having been in the ground work indus...
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Beautiful Gardens

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Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
We are a professional landscape gardening business serving Lichfield, Sutton Coldfield, Rugeley and surrounding villages. ...
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Jds kitchens & berooms

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Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Supplier and installer of kitchens & bedrooms.
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Value Floors Hall Green

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Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Here at Value Floors, we offer flooring products such as laminate flooring, engineered flooring, wood flooring, flooring i...
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Accurate Handyman

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Offers services in LEICESTERSHIRE
Accurate Handyman Service in Leamington, Warwick, Kenilworth, Southam and surrounding areas.

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

24 Jun

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE11

Enquiry from: Rick T

Start Date: Immediate

I need to replace 3 x kitchen worktops. The space is not too long but it does have the sink in it. I also need to get a quote for installing a breakfast bar in the ground floor kitchen. Let...

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11 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Coalville, Ibstock, Markfield - LE67

Enquiry from: Tracey R

Start Date: Immediate

customer in coalville, ibstock, markfield area has requested that we arrange quotes for their garden shed project.they are considering various options and would like to discuss with a carpenter direct...

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12 May

Carpentry

Leicester - LE9

Enquiry from: Lee S

Start Date: Immediate

Landing balustrade moving. New windowsill. 1 kitchen cupboard door adjustment. New kitchen end panel.

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11 May

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Freddy H

Start Date: Immediate

i bought new tv stand and it comes apart i need a help to add it together to foam it please are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what type of job are you looking to ...

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08 May

Carpentry

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: KALWINDER D

Start Date: Immediate

Glass staircase and spiral staircase

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04 May

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Loughborough - LE11

Enquiry from: Leanne M

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

single glazed wooden bathroom opening window is rotten along the bottom and a bit up the sides. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached what service are you l...

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23 Apr

Carpentry

Hinckley - LE10

Enquiry from: Michael M

Start Date: Immediate

Loft Ladder installation.

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23 Feb

Carpentry

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Mir M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, We got squeaky under carpet floor, which needs fixing.

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23 Feb

Carpentry

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Vinesh D

Start Date: Immediate

Staircase repair/refurbishment

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19 Feb

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Andy G

Start Date: Immediate

Repair and/or replacement of wood in conservatory.

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30 Jan

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Ben H

Start Date: Immediate

all internal wooden doors need one reversing so it opens the other way 3 doors need shaving off the bottom so the fit. new bathroom door lock needs fitting, it’s the sort we’re lock is interstate...

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29 Jan

Carpentry

Loughborough - LE12

Enquiry from: Ben H

Start Date: Immediate

all internal wooden doors one needs reversing to open the other way 3 need to have bottoms shaved to fit better 1 bathroom door lock (internal with lock attached to handle) need replacing. are you th...

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23 Jan

Carpentry

Leicester - LE7

Enquiry from: Ruth G

Start Date: Immediate

a side gate with surround and lock please. needed as soon as possible for safety and aesthetics. in rothley. are you the property owner: owner of the property what type of job are you looking to have ...

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08 Dec

Garden | Sheds

Leicester - LE5

Enquiry from: SHASHI P

Start Date: Immediate

a exsisting cabinet needs to be fitted in the kitchen ans need a new garden shed are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you look...

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14 Nov

Interior work | Stud Walls

Leicester - LE5

Enquiry from: Mohamed Z

Start Date: Immediate

Stud Wall & Plasterboard about 60sq meters

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23 Sep

Carpentry

Lutterworth - LE17

Enquiry from: Paul W

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, my name is Paul Wood and I’m emailing from Coltman Brothers Ltd timber merchants in Ashby Magna, Lutterworth and wondered if we could help supply timber for any of your projects coming up? / Nee...

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13 Sep

Carpentry

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Shazmin M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, trying to get in touch with Joody and just can’t.

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23 May

Garden | Sheds

Leicester - LE4

Enquiry from: Kamlesh R

Start Date: Immediate

to install new metal garden shed 8×6 feet purchasing from argos. also remove old wooden shed and get rid off wood are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden

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11 May

Garden | Sheds

Leicester - LE2

Enquiry from: Lisa G

Start Date: Immediate

miss requested quotes for garden shed from a carpenter around leicester. they are considering a couple of projects at the moment.call anytime to arrange appointment to discuss. the information below i...

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31 Mar

Garden | Decking

Wigston - LE18

Enquiry from: Ray D

Start Date: Immediate

repair decking structure and lsy new floor are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Leicestershire is:

£968

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Leicestershire £1,738-£2,998
Carpenters and joiners in Leicestershire £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Leicestershire £638-£978
Wood flooring in Leicestershire £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Leicestershire £663-£1,863
Garden shed in Leicestershire £325-£795
Wooden window repair in Leicestershire £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Leicestershire

Carpenter FAQs

How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to put up plasterboard?

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

How to build a shed base on uneven ground?
Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out.
  1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
  2. Build a timber frame to size.
  3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
  4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
  5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
  6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.
If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.
How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.

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