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Verified ProOver 50 Reviews

JM Fencing and Landscaping

89 review(s)
Offers services in ORPINGTON
Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
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Towergate Builders & Developers has been a trusted name in the construction and development industry for over 30 years, de...
Verified ProOver 20 Reviews

Thomas Roof Restoration

25 review(s)
Offers services in ORPINGTON
Thomas Roof Restoration are proud to work on your property as if it were their own. Based in Canterbury, covering Kent, So...
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Stonehaven Landscapes

2 review(s)
Offers services in ORPINGTON
At stonehaven building and landscapes we take pride in every job we do. We strive to understand what you need and to achie...
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We are a family run business with an array of experience and knowledge in the kitchen and bedroom industry. We offer the ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

25 Dec

Garden | Sheds

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Jianxun L

Start Date: Immediate

remove the hedges (approx 7m wide x 1m depth x 1.5m height) in the back garden are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden...

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16 Dec

Garden | Sheds

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Jianxun L

Start Date: Immediate

remove the hedges (approx 7m wide x 1m depth x 1.5m height) in the back garden are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back garden...

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10 Feb

Carpentry

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: James L

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

looking for 2 stair cases, from groud floor to second floor are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply only time scale: immediat...

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03 Jul

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Alan L

Start Date: Immediate

looking to have an existing brick patio replaced with composite decking area. space is approx 38sqm. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of servi...

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25 Jun

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Alan L

Start Date: Immediate

looking to have an existing brick patio replaced with composite decking area. space is approx 38sqm. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of servi...

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12 Jun

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Jeanette D

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Fencing to b put up about 3 panels Decking to b removed patio instead Ne...

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05 Mar

Garden | Sheds

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Nav S

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: One-off shed base and *** shed build required. Also regular ongoing mainte...

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26 Oct

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Tom M

Start Date: Immediate

are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached other forms: garden maintenance, wooden decking, upvc double glazing agreed to receive quotes for selected products: yes...

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20 May

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Jackie B

Start Date: Immediate

are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached other forms: wooden decking agreed to receive quotes for selected products: yes please call to appoint

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14 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Jay J

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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25 May

Garden | Sheds

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: M F

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Work description: Regular work to outside hse, inc grass cutting, planting, general & plant maint...

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05 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Brian T

Start Date: Less than one month

approx 12ft x 8ft shed (possibly a bit bigger). Double doors; 2/3 glass windows. will require existing flat ground to be prepared for installation; delivery and installation also.

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20 Jul

Flooring | Wooden

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Prashant R

Start Date: Immediate

Submit your free quote for rated tradespeople

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17 Jul

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Nathan T

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Grass flowers hedges need trimming weeds nd others

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03 Jul

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Tracy W

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: I have a small slope area which I would like to make a deck seating area and I I...

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11 Jun

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: Jo M

Start Date: Less than one month

Decking needs replacing Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Terrace What level of service do you require: Supply and deck Time scale: Less than one month Please call to ap...

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18 May

Garden | Decking

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Liam G

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Terrace Other Forms: 92 Agreed to recieve quotes for selected products: Yes Please call to appoint

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07 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Orpington - BR6

Enquiry from: BRYAN W

Start Date: Less than one month

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Time scale: Less than one month Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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15 Jan

Carpentry

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: S

Start Date: Immediate

install sliding doors,new skirting boards,

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30 Dec

Carpentry

Orpington - BR5

Enquiry from: Ian B

Start Date: Less than one month

To remove existing cubicles in toilet x2 and replace with new Time scale: Less than one month Please call to appoint

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Orpington is:

£1,073

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Orpington £1,238-£3,748
Carpenters and joiners in Orpington £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Orpington £638-£978
Wood flooring in Orpington £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Orpington £663-£3,363
Garden shed in Orpington £300-£545
Wooden window repair in Orpington £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Orpington

Carpenter FAQs

How much is wood flooring?

The cost of wood flooring varies by the type of wood and by the finish required. As a guide though oak solid wood flooring cost about £35 - £45 per m2. The average wooden cost by material are approximately £40 per m2 for pine, £45 per m2 for cherry, £60 per m2 for maple and £75 per m2 for walnut. This price does exclude the laying of the flooring and the underlay required.

How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.
How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How much does it cost to hire a carpenter?

Considerations

If you're thinking about making changes around your household that include working with wood, you ought to hire a local carpenter. Looking to fix a loose piece? Or looking for some drastic improvements? A carpentry expert might be the top choice.

General carpenters are expert woodsmen and know a variety of areas from grounds to gear. Maximum carpentry depends on a rudimentary set of skills which your worker may choose to build upon by specialising. For example, few carpenters have a talent for wood repair, building original constructions or manufacturing furniture.

Time

The extent of time it takes to complete a certain project is another consideration to be kept in mind. This is particularly essential if you are on a constricted timeline or dealing with time limitations. Most carpentry projects take about 13 hours to finish. Although, this is purely dependent on the intricacy of the project and the pre-arranged timeline you and your carpenter agree to.

The cost to hire a general carpenter in the UK amounts to £20 to £25 per hour on an average. Though, it is always imperative to speak with a professional in carpentry services about this.

General Carpentry Costs in the UK:

• National Minimum Cost is £20

• National Maximum Cost is £25

• The national average is around £22

Cost Comparison of Popular Carpentry Services in the UK (Average Hourly Rate):

• Furniture Refinishing is around £17

• A Cabinet Repair is around £23

• Finish Carpentry will set you back a minimum of £30

• General Carpentry is around £20

• Fine Woodworking is about £20

Carpentry is a brilliant method to improve your household and to help maintain its visual pleasantness. Finding a decent carpenter at the correct value is a vital area that needs undivided attention in terms of your project. Whether you're reinforcing your staircase or looking for a total renovation of the house that would change its look, a general carpenter will complete your project to the highest standards.

How to plasterboard a wall?

How To Plasterboard A Wall

If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!

• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.

• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.

• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.

• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.

• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.

• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.

• Cut the end boards to length.

• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.

• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.

We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.

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