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Verified ProOver 50 Reviews

JM Fencing and Landscaping

89 review(s)
Offers services in GILLINGHAM
Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
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Aesthetic Gardens & Drives

0 review(s)
Offers services in GILLINGHAM
Here at Aesthetic Gardens & Drives we specialize in transforming outdoor spaces into stunning landscapes. With a commitmen...
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CHS Landscapes

0 review(s)
Offers services in GILLINGHAM
CHS Landscapes cover Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire and provide professional landscaping services to both domestic and co...
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Oxford Garden Gang

0 review(s)
Offers services in GILLINGHAM
Is your garden not up to your standards? Do you want your garden to look amazing? Well look no further as we Oxford Garden...
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Southern Joinery

0 review(s)
Offers services in GILLINGHAM
We Design Innovative Furniture Providing custom joinery services as well as custom furniture built to your requirements. ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

18 Oct

Carpentry

Gillingham - SP8

Enquiry from: Lisa B

Start Date: Immediate

Moved into new build 29/9 & require side door to garage wall cut out & door fitted. Taylor Wimpey recommended you along with A&G Bricklaying.

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15 Oct

Carpentry

Gillingham - SP8

Enquiry from: Emma H

Start Date: Immediate

Hi we are looking for fitted wardrobes in our bedroom which has a pitched ceiling. Happy for it to be just the wooden fitting and we can paint it once we have chosen our colours

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23 Jan

Kitchen | Fitting

Gillingham - SP8

Enquiry from: Rod N

Start Date: Immediate

New kitchen fit 1.90 x 4.5 x 3.2m (3 walls plus island) New plumbing Electrics Flooring White goods

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23 Jul

Garden | Decking

Gillingham - SP8

Enquiry from: Ashley S

Start Date: Immediate

Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Wooden decking out front of house, 6m L. 3m W Are you the property owner: Tenant (with permission) Property Type: Semi detached Time scale: Less ...

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23 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Colin K

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

customer in warminster areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for garden shed.confirmed interest via sms and email at 23/07/2024 10:47.please call to arrange ...

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16 Jul

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Janet B

Start Date: Immediate

I need replacement internal doors upstairs, 4 in total, new handles too. I also need some lvt laid in bathroom, (under floor 6mm waterproof ply I think)

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29 Jun

Carpentry

Sturminster Newton - DT10

Enquiry from: Kathryn Q

Start Date: Immediate

Screed and Kardean lvt flooring (already purchased) installed in kitchen, diner, hallway and downstairs toilet.

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21 Jun

Carpentry

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Anna S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

desk and shelving/cupboards in an alcove area. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of job are you looking to have done: furniture fitting, other do...

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06 May

Carpentry

Shaftesbury - SP7

Enquiry from: Stephen W

Start Date: Less than one month

two small jobs. i need an internal door rehung to open outwards instead of inwards. the second is that i have purchased a new integrated washing machine and the door hinge positions are completely dif...

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26 Apr

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Martin B

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

stair case and banisters, either oak spindles or glass panels. possibly under stairs cupboard are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of job are you lo...

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31 Mar

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Joji M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, I would like to repair or replace a conservatory timber doors which is not able to shut properly in winter times. Please let me know if you could do this. Thanks. J Mathew ***

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22 Mar

Carpentry

Shaftesbury - SP7

Enquiry from: Sally W

Start Date: Immediate

Replacement of two interior barn style doors

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19 Feb

Carpentry

Sturminster Newton - DT10

Enquiry from: Marie H

Start Date: Immediate

I don't know if it's a service you provide, but I'm desperate for someone to fix a creaky staircase and some upstairs floorboards too. Many thanks

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10 Jan

Carpentry

Salisbury - SP3

Enquiry from: Alison H

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

two double wardrobes side by side (his and hers) with hanging rails and shelves to each side. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you lookin...

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18 Dec

Carpentry

Frome - BA11

Enquiry from: Ashley B

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

2 staircases that enables us to from the ground floor into the loft. many thanks. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to have don...

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20 Nov

Carpentry

Wincanton - BA9

Enquiry from: Robyn D

Start Date: Immediate

Hi there, we are just about to purchase a new property at the above address. It needs a lot of work before we even think about carpentry but im retreiving some quotes for when the time comes. ...

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13 Oct

Carpentry

Templecombe - BA8

Enquiry from: Laura B

Start Date: Immediate

Hi there, I would like to enquire about having some fitted wardrobes built.

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23 Sep

Carpentry

Shepton Mallet - BA4

Enquiry from: Elizabeth J

Start Date: Immediate

Painting & decorating 2 bedrooms, stairwell, living room. Painting some Outside windows.

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23 Sep

Carpentry

Warminster - BA12

Enquiry from: Karen J

Start Date: Immediate

Clock room unit needs adapting - for rental in Dilton marsh

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19 Sep

Carpentry

Wincanton - BA9

Enquiry from: Phil G

Start Date: Immediate

I’ve installed some cupboards, I was looking for assistance in cutting the side trims. I have 4 lengths that need cutting with a table saw, which I unfortunately don’t have. Are you able to assist...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Gillingham is:

£1,282

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Gillingham £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Gillingham £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Gillingham £638-£978
Wood flooring in Gillingham £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Gillingham £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Gillingham £2,475-£4,345
Wooden window repair in Gillingham £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Gillingham

Carpenter FAQs

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How is wooden flooring installed

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

 

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

  • Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
  • With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
  • Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
  • Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
  • Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

  • Make use of a porta-nailer.
  • Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
  • Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
  • Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
How to lay solid wood flooring on floorboards?

Do you have existing floorboards and wish to fit new solid wood floor over it? If you’re planning to go for a DIY effort, there are a number of things you should put into consideration before you even get started. Firstly, you should have it in mind that existing softwood floorboards are usually not flat, implying that the surface of the existing might not be ideal to serve as the foundation on which to put your new solid wood flooring. Secondly, if you’re going to lay the new solid floor on the existing floorboards, it would be wise to select wood that is a minimum of 18mm thick to make your new solid wood flooring a lot more stable.

If you discover that your old floor is not too even, there are two option you can consider to protect your investment. You can lay the new floor at a 90 degree angle over the existing one. In other words, you should lay the new floor lengthways if the old one is laid widthways. Using this technique alongside a method of fitting referred to as secret nailing will go a long way to make sure your installation efforts is a successful one.

The second option you can put into consideration when laying solid wood flooring over old ones is to lay chipboard or plywood over the existing floor prior to the installation of the new floor. Here, there will be an increase in the cost of your installation, however it will be more reliable and durable as it assists in ensuring the stability of your new flooring. Some benefits that comes with this option includes the freedom to lay the new solid wood flooring in any direction you want as well as the freedom to use any fitting method you deem fit. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Where should I put my garden shed?

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

Do I need underlay for a wooden floor?

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
How much is plasterboard?

How Much Is Plasterboard?

Do you wish to install plasterboard in the nearest future? If yes, then you’d probably want to know the amount it’s going to cost. Here, we’ll give you a detailed plasterboarding prices breakdown to help you calculate an estimate for your project.

A plasterboarding project including the cost of both materials and labour with the use of a high quality panels is about £4 to £5 per panel. Therefore, if you wish to calculate on the basis of a standard room about 12x12ft would cost about £500 to £600. However, this price can fluctuate significantly depending on the professional as well as the quality of the materials you wish to incorporate in completing the project. We’d recommend that you hire the services of a professional with accreditation as he would provide you with a detailed quote with no hidden charges or costs. To give you a clearer idea, we’ve taken the time out to put together some estimated costs of employing the services of a seasoned professional plasterer to supply and plasterboard your home or office. Let’s take a look!

• A 6 x 12ft room with panels and plasterboard should have an average cost within the range of £250 to £400 and duration of one to two days.

• The individual cost of plasterboarding or drywalling a standard 12 x 12ft room should have an average cost within the range of £500 to £600 and duration of one to three days. These includes 60% for materials used (£330), 30% for tradespersons (£165) and the remaining 10% for waste removal (£55) to give a total cost of £550.

• A 12 x 24ft room with panels and plasterboard should have an average cost within the range of £1000 to £1200 and duration of three to six days.

What is engineered wood flooring?

What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is produced through the fixing of several layers of wood together with a solid wood as the top or wear layer. Due to its ability to hold its ground when faced with frequently changing temperature and humidity, it happens to be one of the most popular types of flooring. As a result of its ruggedness, engineered wood flooring can be easily fitted with under floor heating and in special areas like conservatories. And apart from its usually stunning visual appeal and ability to be floated over an underlay, the engineered wood flooring is even becoming a lot more popular amongst home and other property owners.

Given the fact that engineered wood flooring is made up of several layers of wood, it may be almost impossible to tell the difference between it and a solid wood flooring just by looking at both. It can also be mistaken for a laminate flooring which is basically an image of wooden flooring placed onto a high density fibreboard.

The planks of a engineered wood flooring is crafted in such a way to ensure the it does not expand or contract unlike the solid wood counterparts. What’s more? There are several benefits that comes with installing an engineered wood flooring. They include:

• Its very easy and simple to install

• When compared to solid wood flooring, it’s more cost effective.

• It can be utilized alongside an under floor heating

• It can be loose laid, meaning it does not need to be fixed in position

• It is available in multiple varieties of wood and finishes

• It can be incorporated alongside an underlay including thermal barriers

• It can be utilized in areas with a fluctuating humidity and temperature.

• It is available in different kinds of thickness.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

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