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Verified ProOver 50 Reviews

JM Fencing and Landscaping

89 review(s)
Offers services in BEMBRIDGE
Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
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Stonehaven Landscapes

2 review(s)
Offers services in BEMBRIDGE
At stonehaven building and landscapes we take pride in every job we do. We strive to understand what you need and to achie...
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TruGreen West Sussex

0 review(s)
Offers services in BEMBRIDGE
TruGreen West Sussex offers a wide range of lawn care services to help make your lawn the central feature of your garden. ...
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CHS Landscapes

0 review(s)
Offers services in BEMBRIDGE
CHS Landscapes cover Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire and provide professional landscaping services to both domestic and co...
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Southern Joinery

0 review(s)
Offers services in BEMBRIDGE
We Design Innovative Furniture Providing custom joinery services as well as custom furniture built to your requirements. ...
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Alpha Fencing

0 review(s)
Offers services in BEMBRIDGE
Alpha Fencing is a brand new Fencing company located in Sussex and Hampshire. The team is full of deeply experienced contr...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

07 Apr

Garden | Decking

Bembridge - PO35

Enquiry from: Gerard H

Start Date: Immediate

Replace 4m x 5m (approx) exsting decking with new hardwood deck including sub-frame. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached What level of service do you require...

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12 Sep

Kitchen | Fitting

Cowes - PO31

Enquiry from: Edna J

Start Date: Immediate

refit a kitchen after drain (sink blockage) flooding accident. quote for repair and/or new kitchen required. are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service do you require: i...

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03 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Gosport - PO12

Enquiry from: Catherine C

Start Date: Immediate

Shed roof needs repairing after damage during the winter. Roof boards are damp and bowing. Also needs re felting.

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19 Apr

Carpentry

Portsmouth - PO1

Enquiry from: Tim M

Start Date: Immediate

2 doors need shaving down because i have new carpets and the 2 doors won’t close because of carpets are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) time scale: immediate what type of job are yo...

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02 Oct

Garden | Decking

Ryde - PO33

Enquiry from: Andrew C

Start Date: Immediate

replacement of mall area of decking in courtyard plus advice on further works. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply a...

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12 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Gosport - PO12

Enquiry from: Rebecca S

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, Tony came round to measure up for 2 gates and a shed door. I know you are very busy but the job was supposed to be started firstly on *** of July, then *** and we haven’t heard anything.I have...

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07 Jun

Carpentry

Sandown - PO36

Enquiry from: Clive E

Start Date: Less than one month

dismantle 3 doors and re hang 3 new ones are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what type of job are you looking to have done: other do you require a door(s): back d...

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23 May

Garden | Decking

Southsea - PO4

Enquiry from: Natalie M

Start Date: Immediate

small area of decking needs replacing in small southsea garden half of garden is patio property type: terrace what level of service do you require: supply and deck are you the property owner: owner o...

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14 May

Carpentry

Sandown - PO36

Enquiry from: Rob B

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

11 fire doors (3 int front door 1 external front door 7 int doors with int smoke seals furniture locks door closers 4 int bathroom doors labour only are you the property owner: owner of the property d...

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12 Apr

Carpentry

Southsea - PO5

Enquiry from: Gail A

Start Date: Less than one month

i am looking to have some barn doors fitted in my basement dividing 2 rooms. wanting some advice on which system would work best and cost of fitting. are you the property owner: owner of the property ...

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17 Mar

Carpentry

Portsmouth - PO1

Enquiry from: Mike B

Start Date: Less than one month

replace a fully internal (inside) flat front door with an fd30 door with 3 x sprung hinge closers, plus intumescent strips to framing. reuse yale plus chubb lock if poss. address shown is home address...

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08 Mar

Carpentry

Lee-on-the-Solent - PO13

Enquiry from: Ann W

Start Date: Less than one month

i have 2 replacement doors that need hanging in the front and back doors. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what type of job are you looking to have done: wood...

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18 Dec

Garden | Decking

Gosport - PO12

Enquiry from: Emily J

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: Lifting of old paving with turf placed down and some kind of patio. Open to desi...

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10 Jun

Garden | Decking

Hayling Island - PO11

Enquiry from: David C

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: detached work description: complete tidy up and possible revamp. are you the property owner: owner garden ty...

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17 May

Garden | Sheds

Gosport - PO12

Enquiry from: Jim F

Start Date: Immediate

customer in gosport areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for garden shed.confirmed interest via email at 17/05/2021 11:21.please call to arrange appointment...

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09 May

Garden | Decking

Southsea - PO4

Enquiry from: Rosie S

Start Date: Immediate

customer in southsea areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for wooden decking.confirmed interest via telephone, sms and email at 09/05/2021 13:28.please call...

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08 May

Garden | Sheds

Southsea - PO4

Enquiry from: Rosie S

Start Date: Immediate

ms requested quotes for garden maintenance from a landscaper around southsea. they are considering a couple of projects at the moment.call anytime to arrange appointment to discuss. the information be...

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05 May

Garden | Sheds

Lee-on-the-Solent - PO13

Enquiry from: Pamela C

Start Date: Immediate

supply and construct shed on the back left side of garden. are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service are you looking for: supply, install do you have a: small garden ple...

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16 Apr

Kitchen | Fitting

Newport - PO30

Enquiry from: Darren W

Start Date: Immediate

fit kitchen, 6 floor units, 5 wall units, sink, oven, hob, extractor, 6 led downlights, lay vinyl flooring and underlay approx 7ft sq are you the property owner: relative of owner what level of servi...

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05 Apr

Garden | Decking

Gosport - PO12

Enquiry from: Corine D

Start Date: Immediate

replace existant old decking are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

Post a similar request >

How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Bembridge is:

£879

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Bembridge £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Bembridge £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Bembridge £638-£978
Wood flooring in Bembridge £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Bembridge £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Bembridge £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Bembridge £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Bembridge

Carpenter FAQs

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to cut plasterboard?

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

How to lay solid wood flooring on concrete?

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Can I fit a hot tub on my terrace or decking?

Yes, although you should make sure that the terrace or decking is able to support the weight of a hot tub. Usually, you will need to have a structural survey carried out on the area. Seek the advise of a hot tub retailer or installer about the logistics of installing one at your property.

Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How much maintenance will a wooden deck need?

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.

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