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Recent Carpenter Enquiries

13 May

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Morag G

Start Date: Immediate

customer has a gardening & landscaping project they are looking to have done, specially they want quotes for garden shed. they are unsure of options so would like to discuss with a carpenter.confirmed...

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03 Feb

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Norma M

Start Date: Immediate

i would like an area slabbed (approx 20 slabs 3x2) and a potting shed assembled on it. also a general garden tidy up are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden...

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19 Apr

Kitchen | Fitting

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Roger M

Start Date: Immediate

remove kitchen counter / worktops replace with new counters - laminate - on order from magnet inverness sink to be replaced with new - on order from magnet inverness are you the property owner: owner...

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21 Jan

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Kathleen A

Start Date: Immediate

new garden shed remove grass and replace with gravel 2 conifers to be take out all shrubs need tidying up patio to be replaced raised beds small corner garden room to be built are you the property ow...

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02 Nov

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV63

Enquiry from: Paul W

Start Date: Immediate

riverside decking repair and alterations are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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25 Oct

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Morag M

Start Date: Immediate

moving in to a new build house and need a garden shed for storage are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you looking for: supply...

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06 Jul

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV3

Enquiry from: Jessie A

Start Date: Immediate

decking fence round it steps up to it and wood over top can't remember name of that are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service do you require: supply and deck property ty...

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30 Jun

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV3

Enquiry from: JOHN M

Start Date: Immediate

cleaning of decking.if it is becoming rotten,removal of decking. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what level of service do you require: deck only please call to ...

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25 Jun

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV3

Enquiry from: JOHN M

Start Date: Immediate

cleaning or removal ( if rotting) of decking in my courtyard which is 8.75x3.55 metres in size. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what level of service do you requ...

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23 Jun

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV3

Enquiry from: Shona F

Start Date: Immediate

customer in the inverness area made an enquiry a couple of projects including wooden decking.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the p...

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21 Jun

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV3

Enquiry from: Shona F

Start Date: Immediate

customer in the inverness area made an enquiry a couple of projects including wooden decking.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the p...

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20 Jun

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV3

Enquiry from: Shona F

Start Date: Immediate

decking back garden with a fence round the decking are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service do you require: supply and deck property type: semi detached please call to ...

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06 May

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Elizabeth C

Start Date: Immediate

need new shed and old summerhouse taken away are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you looking for: supply, install, removal of ...

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30 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Elizabeth C

Start Date: Immediate

i have a summerhouse which needs to be replaced as it is rotting on the outside. i am considering replacing it with a potting shed or greenhouse and would like to book an appointment. are you the prop...

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06 Feb

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Shirley M

Start Date: Immediate

not sure how much is needed are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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10 Jul

Carpentry

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Dylan J

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

garden shed removal and a new larger shed built in its place time scale: 1-3 months please call to appoint

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30 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Patricia A

Start Date: Immediate

8ft x 6ft wooden garden shed at reasonable price please Are you the property owner: Tenant (with permission) What level of service are you looking for: Supply Time scale: Less than one month Do you ha...

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18 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Inverness - IV63

Enquiry from: David F

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

10 x 8 Garden shed/workshop and 6 x 3 log store, including delivery, all foundation work and erection. At new build country bungalow with almost level, large garden area. Access is easy. To be ...

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14 Dec

Garden | Decking

Inverness - IV3

Enquiry from: Pauline B

Start Date: Immediate

Decked area (and landscaping if possible) for 50m square space.

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06 Dec

Kitchen | Fitting

Inverness - IV2

Enquiry from: Benny K

Start Date: Immediate

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Inverness is:

£879

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Inverness £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Inverness £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Inverness £638-£978
Wood flooring in Inverness £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Inverness £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Inverness £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Inverness £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Inverness

Carpenter FAQs

Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
What is the difference between a carpenter and a joiner?

Most of the people out there do not know the difference between a carpenter and a joiner. This is a very common question that is asked by many as to whether there is an actual difference between the two.

Both joiners and carpenters have many shared traits. The definition seems to change throughout the UK. The southern parts use the term carpenter whereas the north seems to prefer the term joiner. Both of these trades involve working with wood mainly in the construction industry. Both of them are, however, are two very unique and separate trades. Both of them come under the broad term of ‘carpentry’ however their skills and specialisms differ.

A joiner is defined as a trained craftsman who is responsible for making or joining wood in a workshop. On the other hand, a carpenter is a professional that works on site with the timber. In summary, a joined creates the wood back at the workshop while the carpenter fixes them on site. A joiner, therefore, works on things that are done in a workshop using machinery while a carpenter is responsible for its assembly on site.

As both joiners and carpenters had learnt the basics of both trade while they were practising as an apprentice, several similar overlaps are bound to occur.

It is good practice to ask the company or the individual what trade they specialise in. As an example, a joiner may be able to make a particular item whereas a carpenter may be better doing the actual fitting.

It is evident from the above sections that carpentry and joinery are completely different and therefore, should be categorised under two different trades, however, there is indeed a lot in common in their extremely high skilled work.

How to lay engineered wood flooring?

The cost of just the engineered wood flooringis from £18 to £73 per m2.

How to plasterboard a wall?

How To Plasterboard A Wall

If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!

• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.

• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.

• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.

• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.

• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.

• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.

• Cut the end boards to length.

• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.

• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.

We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.

How to put up plasterboard?

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to dot and dab plasterboard?

How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.

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