Question 1

How to build a shed base on uneven ground?

Accepted Answer

Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible. Build a timber frame to size. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed. If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.

Question 2

How to build a shed?

Accepted Answer

A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have: A concrete base laid on hardcore Concrete slabs on sharp sand Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle An interlocking plastic system All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing. Put up the shed walls Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together. Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place. Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way. Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof. Fit the roof If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in. Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end. Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals. Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails. Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails. Add the shed windows Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing. From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill. Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.

Question 3

Do I need planning permission for a shed?

Accepted Answer

Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission: The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden It’s not in front of your house The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high There’s no veranda or balcony The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions: If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.

Question 4

How to build a raised deck?

Accepted Answer

Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts: Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart. Make the outer frame Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area. Add your joists Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame. Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

Question 5

Do I need underlay for a wooden floor?

Accepted Answer

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

Question 6

How to lay wood flooring?

Accepted Answer

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Question 7

How to fit composite decking?

Accepted Answer

Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first. Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.

Question 8

Who makes the best garden sheds?

Accepted Answer

Who makes the best garden sheds? While you think there might be a straightforward answer, who makes the best shed for you depends on what you need it for, how much space you have and more. We’ll help you find out who makes the best garden shed for you. What to look for in a garden shed Before you fork out for a new shed, consider: What you need the shed for How much space you have How big you need the shed to be Which style of roof you want What material you would like How big your budget is Once you know the answer to these questions, you can take a look at some of the best brands of garden shed. Shed-Plus Champion Shed-Plus Champion heavy duty sheds are robust wooden garden sheds that have fully ledged and braced doors and integral ‘lock and key’ locking system. They come with a 15-year anti-rot warranty, so should last you a long time; they’re made from 12mm tongue and groove panels which helps to keep them strong and secure for years to come. Our top pick: 8′ x 6′ Heavy Duty Apex Single Door Shed Hand-crafted from Nordic White Spruce Felt roof reinforced with high-grade polyester Tongue and groove cladding makes it more weatherproof so ideal for items that must be kept dry Forest Garden Forest Garden makes a range of wooden sheds to suit any outdoor space. They offer overlap sheds, which are the cheapest option, shiplap sheds which are tongue and groove, and premium tongue and groove sheds. You’ll be able to find something to suit your budget and your needs. Our top pick: Overlap Pressure Treated 6×4 Pent Shed High eaves for more head height and to store taller items Pent roof and fixed windows allow lots of light Ideal for putting up against a wall or fence Door can be hinged either side BillyOh BillyOh sheds are affordable wooden sheds that come in lots of shapes and sizes, so you’re bound to find one to suit your garden. They offer wooden floors as an optional extra as well as lots of other things so you can create a bespoke shed that will work best for you. Our top pick: Master Tall Store Ideal for small gardens or those with fewer tools to store Apex roof for water runoff Tongue and groove walls Tall floor-to-gable door

Carpenter job	Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Hatfield	£1,238-£3,748
Carpenters and joiners in Hatfield	£375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Hatfield	£638-£978
Wood flooring in Hatfield	£750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Hatfield	£663-£3,363
Garden shed in Hatfield	£300-£545
Wooden window repair in Hatfield	£320-£480

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