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Tree & Garden Designs

63 review(s)
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I am a family runed business professional and efficient for 30 years !
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J & D Home Improvements

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Hi at j&D home improvements we take pride in our work to make satisfied customers All work in fully guaranteed Ful...
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Platinum Fencing Specialists

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Platinum Fencing Carry out any fencing work that is needed, from weather damaged panels to full take down and replace fenc...
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Simply Spotless Solutions

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Expert Local Carpet Cleaning in Droitwich Simply Spotless Solutions are a professional carpet cleaning company based in D...
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Spring Forward Landscapes

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Hi there, My name is Adam and I’ve recently set up Spring Forward Landscapes in an attempt to offer services in line with...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

13 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Leominster - HR6

Enquiry from: Teri W

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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01 Aug

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Tenbury Wells - WR15

Enquiry from: Lesley A

Start Date: 3+ months

replacement windows wooden are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what service are you looking for: frame repair how many windows are involved: 2-3 what material is...

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08 Mar

Kitchen | Fitting

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Anthony E

Start Date: Immediate

I need someone to repair or replace a cooker hood

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08 Mar

Kitchen | Fitting

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Anthony E

Start Date: Immediate

We need a repair or replacement of a cooker hood

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15 Nov

Carpentry

Presteigne - LD8

Enquiry from: Roger W

Start Date: Immediate

Construct door frame and fit doors

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31 Mar

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Kiarash D

Start Date: Immediate

6m circular or octagonal decking with insulation as a yurt platform. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: commercial what level of service do you require: supply and de...

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29 Mar

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Kiarash D

Start Date: Immediate

6m circular or octagonal decking with insulation as a yurt platform. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: commercial what level of service do you require: supply and de...

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25 Mar

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Kiarash D

Start Date: Immediate

6m circular or octagonal decking with insulation as a yurt platform. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: commercial what level of service do you require: supply and de...

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09 Dec

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR4

Enquiry from: William B

Start Date: Immediate

trim shrubs in front and rear garden, cut down 3 grasses and cut down herbaceous bed. remove waste. work required: other are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: medium...

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20 Aug

Kitchen | Fitting

Hereford - HR4

Enquiry from: Arthur L

Start Date: Immediate

move 4 kitchen units 10mm to close a gap installed by a rogue fitter.. are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service do you require: install only do you have all of the requ...

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07 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Brenda R

Start Date: Immediate

12' x 8' timber shed prices required including delivery and installation on ready concrete plinth.

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14 Jul

Kitchen | Fitting

Bucknell, Craven Arms, Lydbury North - SY7

Enquiry from: Peter C

Start Date: Immediate

fitting a kitchen plus tiling floor are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service do you require: install only do you have all of the required materials for your kitchen alre...

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06 Apr

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: David H

Start Date: Immediate

decking design and installation are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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17 Mar

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: David H

Start Date: Immediate

decking design and installation are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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07 Mar

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR4

Enquiry from: Jane A

Start Date: Immediate

i would like two ramps with handrails one at front of house and one at back are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: supply ...

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02 Mar

Garden | Decking

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Ian J

Start Date: Immediate

we have an area of decking about 50-60m2 part of which has become discoloured because of overhanging bamboo plats. we would like it restored to a more uniform colour. are you the property owner: owne...

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07 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Hereford - HR1

Enquiry from: Joe T

Start Date: Immediate

10 x6 summer house pent roof type please thankyou are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) what level of service are you looking for: install what level of service are you looking for: sup...

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14 May

Garden | Sheds

Kington - HR5

Enquiry from: Elizabeth R

Start Date: Immediate

A shed with double doors, maybe a small side window. 10foot x10foot, pitched roof, water proof roof, as I have not done anything like this before I am rather paddling in the dark.

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20 Feb

Garden | Sheds

Bucknell, Craven Arms, Lydbury North - SY7

Enquiry from: Allan G

Start Date: Immediate

garden shed 8x6

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26 Jan

Garden | Sheds

Bucknell, Craven Arms, Lydbury North - SY7

Enquiry from: Alan B

Start Date: Immediate

hedges & lawns cut Are you the property owner: Owner Property Type: Detached Do you have a: Large garden Garden Type: Back garden, Front garden, Side garden Work Required: Lawn/Turfing, Hedges, Shed...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Leominster is:

£879

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Leominster £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Leominster £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Leominster £638-£978
Wood flooring in Leominster £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Leominster £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Leominster £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Leominster £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Leominster

Carpenter FAQs

What does a carpenter do?

Carpenters are involved with numerous diverse kinds of construction, from home improvement to cabinet making, and framing to large construction projects.

Since the start of time, men have utilised hand tools to make things. You need to understand the correct usage of a hand saw, hammer, plane, screwdriver, and other manual tools. These tools are used to attach ready pieces and produce a complete product, such as nails, screws, and dowels (pre-formed fragments of wood that fit into pre-drilled holes), which are then fastened and amassed.

Carpenters must be adept with the safety and proper usage of numerous power tools, including the ones that do the cutting, shaping, and refining of the wood. This permits constituents to take the arrangement desired for a specific project. Some of these tools include large table saws and drills, band saws and sanders. Apart from power tools, there are also tons of power hand tools including saws and hand drills that can help with the smaller details of any project.

Cabinetry and Furniture Making

Being a cabinet fabricator or furniture maker gives you the chance to build purposeful devices for a home. You need to be able to plan cabinets, chairs, tables, and other products, frequently to fit into a provided space. It is up to you to pick the proper material such as wood, metal, or fabric, and then make the decision about the type of stain or paint, and also the necessary hardware needed to attach the cabinets and complete the furniture.

Residential Carpentry

Looking to become a residential carpenter? Your primary work would be on home improvement and other repair projects; indoors and outdoors. Residential carpenters complete setting up projects on wood flooring, outdoor decks, and patios. This job requires you to design your projects and then work on those designs. You also have to be skilful at work with your client base of proprietors, who you have to satisfy both aesthetically and financially, by keeping costs in check.

Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
How to plasterboard a brick wall?

How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall

Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!

lAttach Furring Strips

• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.

• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.

• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer

• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.

• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.

• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.

• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.

lApply Plasterboard

• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.

• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.

• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.

• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.

• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.

• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.

• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.

Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.

Where should I put my garden shed?

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How many hours does a carpenter work?

The number of hours you would have to invest and the number of holidays you will have will be mentioned on the contract before you undertake a project. It is very common that of you to be asked of work longer than your shift. It is completely your choice if you want to work more hours, but your employer has no right to force it on you.

There are certain guidelines that establishes the maximum number of hours an individual should labour each week. In general, the maximum number of hours for someone not yet 18 years old, is 40 hours in a week, or eight hours a day. For workers who are aged 18 or above, the number of hours increases to 48 hours a week.

You can contact the environmental health department of your local council or the National Health and Safety Executive (0845 345 00 55) for more information and advice about working hours. According to the law, all workers have the right to a holiday of at least 5.6 weeks (or a total of 28 days of paid leave, if you happen to work five days in a week).

Your holidays may be extended than the minimum right, but it is dependent on your employer. The critical things you should keep in mind about holiday rights are:

• holiday entitlement starts as soon as you begin work;

• your employer has a complete say in when you can take your holiday;

• for holidays you get normal pay;

• after completing the job, you will be compensated for any unused holidays.

In order to meet the requirements for the right to once a year leave you need to be categorized as a worker. You will have no statutory right to paid annual leave if you’re self-employed.

You, as a worker will not have a statutory right to paid leave on bank and public holidays. If you are given a paid leave on a bank or public holiday, this can count towards your 4.8 weeks minimum leave privilege. However, you may be provided with a paid leave on bank and public holidays in addition to your annual leave entitlement, if your employer chooses so.

Great Britain has a total of eight permanent bank and public holidays, whereas, Northern Ireland has ten.

There is no automatic right to an enhanced pay rate that you can exercise if you work on a bank or public holiday. Your remuneration depends on your contract of employment.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.

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