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Verified ProOver 50 Reviews
Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
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Tree & Garden Designs

63 review(s)
Offers services in ANDOVER
I am a family runed business professional and efficient for 30 years !
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Stonehaven Landscapes

2 review(s)
Offers services in ANDOVER
At stonehaven building and landscapes we take pride in every job we do. We strive to understand what you need and to achie...
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CHS Landscapes

0 review(s)
Offers services in ANDOVER
CHS Landscapes cover Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire and provide professional landscaping services to both domestic and co...
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Oxford Garden Gang

0 review(s)
Offers services in ANDOVER
Is your garden not up to your standards? Do you want your garden to look amazing? Well look no further as we Oxford Garden...
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Southern Joinery

0 review(s)
Offers services in ANDOVER
We Design Innovative Furniture Providing custom joinery services as well as custom furniture built to your requirements. ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

09 May

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Richard F

Start Date: Immediate

approximately 60m squared of composite decking in back garden. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: deck only please call to...

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25 Apr

Flooring | Wooden

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Birgit S

Start Date: Immediate

solid engineered wood (oak) floor repair at bottom of stairs since stairs were fitted post flooring. there is now a 2 inch gap around the bottom of the stairs which needs filling. can be made a featur...

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25 Apr

Carpentry

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Birgit S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

solid engineered wood (oak) floor repair at bottom of stairs since stairs were fitted post flooring. there is now a 2 inch gap around the bottom of the stairs which needs filling. can be made a featur...

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20 Apr

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Richard F

Start Date: Immediate

approximately 60m squared of composite decking in back garden. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: deck only please call to...

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16 Apr

Interior work | Stud Walls

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Craig B

Start Date: Immediate

insulated stud wall partition just inside garage roller shutter door (not fitted yet) 3,000x2,700 with standard sized double wooden door in the middle. not high end door quality. are you the property ...

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11 Apr

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Kesaia U

Start Date: Immediate

i need to level my back garden and have fresh grass turf laid on. i would also like a wooden decking. are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: medium size garden g...

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06 Dec

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Rondy A

Start Date: Immediate

some one to dig out my garden to make it are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: unsure garden type: back garden work required: decking current state of garden...

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08 Jun

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Nicholas O

Start Date: Immediate

i need to replace 11 strips of decking on my existing deck. the length required is 2.81m 140 mm wide and 28mm thick. i need the existing boards to be taken up and the new boards cut and fitted. this w...

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26 May

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Andy J

Start Date: Immediate

remove existing wooden decking around 10sqm and replace with larger 15 sqm composite decking are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you requ...

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24 Apr

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Richard P

Start Date: Immediate

cover old patio with decking. approximately 6meters x 2 meters. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck pl...

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14 Jan

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Sophie M

Start Date: Immediate

whole of garden area to be fitted with decking. there is a gradient in the back garden so wanting to have two levels of natural decking with 3 steps at the centre. thanks are you the property owner: ...

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23 Aug

Carpentry

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Gold R

Start Date: Immediate

we are looking to have motorcycle / storage garage innstalled plus another small shed. time scale: immediate please call to appoint

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10 Aug

Carpentry

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Drew M

Start Date: Less than one month

we would like a 8ft *** shed built at the back of our garden. time scale: immediate please call to appoint time scale: less than one month

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30 Jul

Carpentry

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Gary P

Start Date: Immediate

1 X Door Standard Size Shed 1 X Set Of Windows

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13 Aug

Carpentry

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Lindsey S

Start Date: Immediate

Home Owner Fire door to be installed Please call to appoint

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07 Jul

Garden | Decking

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Lisa T

Start Date: Immediate

Looking for a decking to be laid ASAP which will hold a shed and have an area to be able to sit out and enjoy the sun - Estimated Service Date: 18/07/2015 - Estimated Decking Area (sq ft): 256 - Reaso...

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13 May

Carpentry

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: Karyn F

Start Date: Immediate

Homeowner Worktop cutting: one cut for sink, one mitred join, two 'ends' (either sid eof free standing cooker). ie approx 500mm run from wall to sink cut, other side of sink into corner with mitred ...

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12 Feb

Kitchen | Fitting

Andover - SP11

Enquiry from: Danielle K

Start Date: Immediate

Wire in a electric cooker remove old cooker Homeowner Please contact to appoint

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29 Jan

Carpentry

Andover - SP10

Enquiry from: J B

Start Date: Immediate

Home Owner 5 Internal Fire Doors Wood Supplied and Fitted Please Call to Appoint

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Andover is:

£1,282

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Andover £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Andover £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Andover £638-£978
Wood flooring in Andover £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Andover £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Andover £2,475-£4,345
Wooden window repair in Andover £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Andover

Carpenter FAQs

How to fit wooden flooring?

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How much does it cost to hire a carpenter?

Considerations

If you're thinking about making changes around your household that include working with wood, you ought to hire a local carpenter. Looking to fix a loose piece? Or looking for some drastic improvements? A carpentry expert might be the top choice.

General carpenters are expert woodsmen and know a variety of areas from grounds to gear. Maximum carpentry depends on a rudimentary set of skills which your worker may choose to build upon by specialising. For example, few carpenters have a talent for wood repair, building original constructions or manufacturing furniture.

Time

The extent of time it takes to complete a certain project is another consideration to be kept in mind. This is particularly essential if you are on a constricted timeline or dealing with time limitations. Most carpentry projects take about 13 hours to finish. Although, this is purely dependent on the intricacy of the project and the pre-arranged timeline you and your carpenter agree to.

The cost to hire a general carpenter in the UK amounts to £20 to £25 per hour on an average. Though, it is always imperative to speak with a professional in carpentry services about this.

General Carpentry Costs in the UK:

• National Minimum Cost is £20

• National Maximum Cost is £25

• The national average is around £22

Cost Comparison of Popular Carpentry Services in the UK (Average Hourly Rate):

• Furniture Refinishing is around £17

• A Cabinet Repair is around £23

• Finish Carpentry will set you back a minimum of £30

• General Carpentry is around £20

• Fine Woodworking is about £20

Carpentry is a brilliant method to improve your household and to help maintain its visual pleasantness. Finding a decent carpenter at the correct value is a vital area that needs undivided attention in terms of your project. Whether you're reinforcing your staircase or looking for a total renovation of the house that would change its look, a general carpenter will complete your project to the highest standards.

How much plasterboard do I need?

How Much Plasterboard Do I Need?

Although many people especially contractors have a tough time estimating the number of drywall or plasterboard needed to complete a project, it’s a rather simple task if all factors are taken into consideration. If you’re able to follow the same procedures taken by professionals to count dry wall sheets, you’ll be in the right direction. Let’s have a look at the procedures to follow!

lTake Square Footage Measurement

• Measure the square footage of the area where the plasterboard will be fitted.

• Multiply the height by the width of each wall or ceiling area.

• Add all quantities to obtain a total square-foot amount.

lCalculate Drywall Sheets

• To calculate the number of drywall or plasterboard sheet is very simple once you’ve gotten the total square footage.

• To get started, simply divide the total square footage of area by 32 (that’s if you are using a 4 by 8 sheets) or you can also make use of 48 to make the division (only if you’re making use of the 4 by 12 sheets).

• The answer you get after the division will give you the full number of plasterboard sheets that’s required to complete the project.

We’d recommend you include an extra 10 to 15 percent of whatever you calculate to take care of the possible odd cuts and wastages. This implies that if your total area is 1600 square feet while incorporating 4 by 8 sheets, simply divide 1600 by 32 which equals 50 sheets, now take 10% of 50 which equals 5, then add back the 5 extra to the 50 sheets earlier calculated to get 55 sheets. If you wish to estimate the cost, simply multiply the number of sheets gotten by the price per sheet. Do not forget to include delivery charges and local taxes.

What is second fix carpentry?

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.
How to put up plasterboard?

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.

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