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Redwood Landscapes

3 review(s)
Offers services in WOTTON-UNDER-EDGE
Redwood building and landscapes are a professional building and landscaping company, providing first class services to cli...
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J & D Home Improvements

0 review(s)
Offers services in WOTTON-UNDER-EDGE
Hi at j&D home improvements we take pride in our work to make satisfied customers All work in fully guaranteed Ful...
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L&w plastering services

0 review(s)
Offers services in WOTTON-UNDER-EDGE
L&w plastering services Fully qualified, cis registered we off free quotation and carry out all our tasks to the highest...
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Oxford Garden Gang

0 review(s)
Offers services in WOTTON-UNDER-EDGE
Is your garden not up to your standards? Do you want your garden to look amazing? Well look no further as we Oxford Garden...
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Platinum Fencing Specialists

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Offers services in WOTTON-UNDER-EDGE
Platinum Fencing Carry out any fencing work that is needed, from weather damaged panels to full take down and replace fenc...
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Multi trade home solutions

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Offers services in WOTTON-UNDER-EDGE
Serving the local area we take pride in our work . And our reputation have been build on loyalty to our customers over ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

11 Jun

Carpentry

Wotton-under-Edge - GL12

Enquiry from: Grace G

Start Date: Immediate

How much would it be please to box the pipes along the back wall of a toilet? I can send you a picture of the toilet

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12 Mar

Carpentry

Wotton-under-Edge - GL12

Enquiry from: Luke M

Start Date: Immediate

Hi I am looking to have some kitchen unit doors, end shelving and end panels made to replace the current ones. Ideally the doors would be solid wood.

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24 Aug

Kitchen | Fitting

Wotton-under-Edge - GL12

Enquiry from: Keith B

Start Date: Immediate

a panel under the sink has warped and needs replacing so that we can install a new dishwasher. pictures can be supplied if need be are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) what level of s...

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23 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Wotton-under-Edge - GL12

Enquiry from: Rebekah P

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: Need to take an old shed down

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18 Aug

Carpentry

Wotton-under-Edge - GL12

Enquiry from: Mike G

Start Date: Immediate

rear external door and frame removal, supply and fit new one time scale: immediate please call to appoint

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05 Feb

Kitchen | Fitting

Wotton-under-Edge - GL12

Enquiry from: Chris R

Start Date: Immediate

Submit your free quote for rated tradespeople

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06 Jan

Garden | Sheds

Wotton-under-Edge - GL12

Enquiry from: Sally W

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Time scale: 1-3 months Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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12 Jun

Carpentry

Bristol - BS34

Enquiry from: Stephen P

Start Date: Immediate

Installation of wooden door in kitchen for small pantry area in existing doorway. Doorway is slightly damaged and warped.

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10 Jun

Carpentry

Bristol - BS5

Enquiry from: Robert F

Start Date: Immediate

My name is Rob, I'm 25. Ex military and looking to start a career in carpentry. Are you taking on a any apprentjces this year ?

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05 Jun

Carpentry

Bristol - BS32

Enquiry from: Hannah E

Start Date: Immediate

Hi I would like something made to cover the cable trays in between the desks that sit flush to the desk. Is this possible? Happy to arrange a time for you to pop into our office to take a lo...

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15 May

Garden | Sheds

Bristol - BS7

Enquiry from: Debra S

Start Date: Immediate

Email best. New shed roof. Small job. 25 long *** depth. Old council sheds. Does still have old roof on but nails have lifted in the winters.

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26 Feb

Kitchen | Fitting

Bristol - BS9

Enquiry from: Maria S

Start Date: Immediate

I have 2 new cupboards and a sink which need fitting in my utility room. The cupboards are new from B & Q and still in the packaging. There is also a worktop to cut and fit.

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26 Feb

Carpentry

Bristol - BS6

Enquiry from: Anna B

Start Date: Immediate

New wooden double glazed French doors, a new cill, possibly a new door frame based on your assessment. Thanks

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04 Feb

Carpentry

Bristol - BS5

Enquiry from: Eleanor O

Start Date: Immediate

Hi there, We are in the process of fitting our new kitchen, but we need someone to fit our acrylic Mistral worktop for us - it would include shaping the edges, hob/sink cut-out, fitting upstands and t...

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02 Feb

Garden | Sheds

Bristol - BS16

Enquiry from: Caroline R

Start Date: Immediate

Hi, how much do you charge to mow a garden lawn please? I'm hoping to move to Frenchay but the property doesn't have a garage so instead of buying a shed I was wondering how much you charge?

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28 Jan

Carpentry

Bristol - BS32

Enquiry from: Duncan B

Start Date: Immediate

Variety of work needed. First is a kitchen worktop. Also require carpentry work. Thanks :)

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18 Dec

Kitchen | Fitting

Bristol - BS5

Enquiry from: George S

Start Date: Immediate

part kitchen replaced, plumbing. tiling are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have all of the required materials for your kitchen already: yes agreed to receive kitchen supply and i...

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30 Nov

Carpentry

Bristol - BS32

Enquiry from: Gabriela P

Start Date: Immediate

Hello, I hope you’re having a good day! We are doing a project with the charity Foster Wales, and care experienced young people, where they’ve created a mural which is going to be displ...

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08 Nov

Carpentry

Bristol - BS32

Enquiry from: Richard S

Start Date: Immediate

Stairs for my house .emailed already but not responding

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23 Oct

Carpentry

Bristol - BS32

Enquiry from: Tom Y

Start Date: Immediate

Hi there, looking for a quote to fit and hang 6/7 internal doors by end of December. Is this something you can provide?

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Wotton-under-edge is:

£1,191

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Wotton-under-edge £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Wotton-under-edge £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Wotton-under-edge £638-£978
Wood flooring in Wotton-under-edge £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Wotton-under-edge £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Wotton-under-edge £1,817-£3,730
Wooden window repair in Wotton-under-edge £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Wotton-under-edge

Carpenter FAQs

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
Where should I put my garden shed?

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

How to lay solid wood flooring on floorboards?

Do you have existing floorboards and wish to fit new solid wood floor over it? If you’re planning to go for a DIY effort, there are a number of things you should put into consideration before you even get started. Firstly, you should have it in mind that existing softwood floorboards are usually not flat, implying that the surface of the existing might not be ideal to serve as the foundation on which to put your new solid wood flooring. Secondly, if you’re going to lay the new solid floor on the existing floorboards, it would be wise to select wood that is a minimum of 18mm thick to make your new solid wood flooring a lot more stable.

If you discover that your old floor is not too even, there are two option you can consider to protect your investment. You can lay the new floor at a 90 degree angle over the existing one. In other words, you should lay the new floor lengthways if the old one is laid widthways. Using this technique alongside a method of fitting referred to as secret nailing will go a long way to make sure your installation efforts is a successful one.

The second option you can put into consideration when laying solid wood flooring over old ones is to lay chipboard or plywood over the existing floor prior to the installation of the new floor. Here, there will be an increase in the cost of your installation, however it will be more reliable and durable as it assists in ensuring the stability of your new flooring. Some benefits that comes with this option includes the freedom to lay the new solid wood flooring in any direction you want as well as the freedom to use any fitting method you deem fit. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to cut plasterboard?

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

Where can I buy kitchen cabinets?

When you’re building or redesigning your kitchen, one of the most important decisions you’d have to make is your kitchen cabinets. They are basically where you’ll keep everything you use to cook and as such, take up a lot of space in the kitchen. Therefore, if the aesthetic of your kitchen is a priority, then you’d probably want to get the best quality and good looking cabinet you possibly can. If you’re in the market for new kitchen cabinets, you can put these sources of cabinets into consideration. Let’s take a look!

  • IKEA. One of the best place to buy affordable home goods is also a great place to check if you want to buy your kitchen cabinets. According to a research carried out by J.D Power which surveyed over 1500 customers within the past one year, IKEA’s cabinet system ( Sektion) ranked the highest in terms of the overall satisfaction.
  • KraftMaid. Another winner of the survey conducted by J.D Power as it took the second position when it comes to the overall satisfaction. Therefore, this store happens to be a good option based on the reviews. This store provides you with a wide variety of colour options to select from, so regardless of what your personal preference is, you’re guaranteed to find something worthwhile to install in your kitchen.
  • Stoffer Home. When you buy your kitchen cabinet from an interior designer, there’s a better chance for suitability. Stoffer home offers top quality cabinets which can be manufactured in four various wood finishes and twelve varying paint colours which are all carefully curated.

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