Carpentry
Newhaven - BN9
Enquiry from: Frazer T
Start Date: Immediate
I was wondering if you make oak open back staircases if someone can get back to me many thanks Frazer
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Newhaven - BN9
Enquiry from: Frazer T
Start Date: Immediate
I was wondering if you make oak open back staircases if someone can get back to me many thanks Frazer
Bexhill-on-Sea - TN39
Enquiry from: Julie C
Start Date: Immediate
Treads to steel staircase and balustrades Long run of skeiling cupboards Window seat Shelving in walk-in cupboard Partitions between single beds in kids bedroom Alcove shelving
Uckfield - TN22
Enquiry from: Lindsey W
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
i have a redwood conservatory at the back of my house, some of the lower sills are suffering from the prolonged dampness and the wood is soft and in need of repairing or replacing. are you the proper...
Bexhill-on-Sea - TN40
Enquiry from: Keely R
Start Date: Immediate
Broken plinth and doors misaligned on kitchen cabinets
Hastings - TN34
Enquiry from: Gary U
Start Date: Immediate
Would this be something you could provide a quote for at all ? Site Address NatWest, 13 Cecil Square, Margate, *** Scope of Works In short, we will need to do complete the following three...
Uckfield - TN22
Enquiry from: Tracy A
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
hello there a few things but i don't know if i can afford it all hence contacting you. - a hinged window bench in the kitchen - two cupboards for either side of a new log burner chimney breast - a ru...
Uckfield - TN22
Enquiry from: David P
Start Date: Immediate
good evening hope all is well im looking for someone to put up some shelvein in the spaces of the chimney breasts please thank you david are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property t...
Crowborough - TN6
Enquiry from: Kate F
Start Date: Immediate
I would like quotes for a simple larder cupboard in an alcove, bookshelves and a way to close in a staircase that is open on one side.
Battle - TN33
Enquiry from: Mervyn B
Start Date: Immediate
exterior door replacement,two internal door replacement. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace do you require a door(s): front door what level of service do you requ...
Bexhill-on-Sea - TN40
Enquiry from: Maurice P
Start Date: Immediate
I have purchased a replcement fire door for my integral garage, including the lock and handle. I need a carpenter to fit it. I think there needs to be additional door stopping as the current door has ...
Brighton - BN2
Enquiry from: Georgina T
Start Date: Immediate
Hi Fionn, lost your number. Have a few bits to do can you give me a ring? Cheers and HNY!
Uckfield - TN22
Enquiry from: Chris W
Start Date: Immediate
Good morning, we are moving into a new build house (5 bedroom) and having carpets fitted on 21st & 22nd December and require the doors to be removed, shaved and refitted at this time to accommodate th...
Bexhill-on-Sea - TN39
Enquiry from: Richard P
Start Date: Immediate
Remove bannisters from raised dining area and replace with bespoke display unit , 3 metres long .
Peacehaven - BN10
Enquiry from: Shoni C
Start Date: Immediate
I'm looking for someone to quote on building banquette seating in my conservatory.
Robertsbridge - TN32
Enquiry from: Joseph A
Start Date: Immediate
Hi - looking for someone to build a pitched roof for our development in Robertsbridge. Do you have any availability?
Hastings - TN34
Enquiry from: Mikhail B
Start Date: Immediate
Hello I hope this message finds you well. My name is Michael. I am writing to inquire about the possibility of making a cupboard and a bar stand (with a flap lid and a door ) for our upcoming kios...
Rye - TN31
Enquiry from: Carole E
Start Date: Immediate
We are in a new build and want 1 of the bedrooms turned into a dressing room with fitted wardrobes
Bexhill-on-Sea - TN39
Enquiry from: Alison B
Start Date: Less than one month
hi, we are looking to repair/restore our front porch and also need a new front door installed. many thanks are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of j...
Newhaven - BN9
Enquiry from: Nick C
Start Date: Immediate
New back door hanging plus lock & handles fitting
Brighton - BN2
Enquiry from: Lucy Y
Start Date: Less than one month
old staircase removed and new one fitted, staircase is straight and has nine stairs from ground floor to landing. can you quote me for labour and cost of materials together please as well as removal o...
Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!
Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.
The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.
View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter adviceCarpenter job | Carpenter cost in 2024 |
---|---|
Kitchen Fitting in East Sussex | £1,238-£3,748 |
Carpenters and joiners in East Sussex | £375-£575 |
Plasterboard dry lining in East Sussex | £638-£978 |
Wood flooring in East Sussex | £750-£1,150 |
Wooden decking in East Sussex | £663-£3,363 |
Garden shed in East Sussex | £300-£545 |
Wooden window repair in East Sussex | £320-£480 |
How To Fit Plasterboard
If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.
To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.
Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.
• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit
• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.
• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.
• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.
How To Put Up Plasterboard
Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.
Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.
• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.
• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.
Most of the people out there do not know the difference between a carpenter and a joiner. This is a very common question that is asked by many as to whether there is an actual difference between the two.
Both joiners and carpenters have many shared traits. The definition seems to change throughout the UK. The southern parts use the term carpenter whereas the north seems to prefer the term joiner. Both of these trades involve working with wood mainly in the construction industry. Both of them are, however, are two very unique and separate trades. Both of them come under the broad term of ‘carpentry’ however their skills and specialisms differ.
A joiner is defined as a trained craftsman who is responsible for making or joining wood in a workshop. On the other hand, a carpenter is a professional that works on site with the timber. In summary, a joined creates the wood back at the workshop while the carpenter fixes them on site. A joiner, therefore, works on things that are done in a workshop using machinery while a carpenter is responsible for its assembly on site.
As both joiners and carpenters had learnt the basics of both trade while they were practising as an apprentice, several similar overlaps are bound to occur.
It is good practice to ask the company or the individual what trade they specialise in. As an example, a joiner may be able to make a particular item whereas a carpenter may be better doing the actual fitting.
It is evident from the above sections that carpentry and joinery are completely different and therefore, should be categorised under two different trades, however, there is indeed a lot in common in their extremely high skilled work.
Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.
Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.
• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight
• Spare conduits: drawstrings
• Soil pipes
• Copper pipes
• Normal pipes
• Doorbell
• Door frames
• Pocket doorframes
• Stairwell
• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)
• Push-fit or other plastic piping
• Electrical back boxes
• Electricity cable runs
• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables
• Socket location
• Security
• Fire alarm
• Sound insulation
• Plasterboarding
It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.
The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.
Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.
Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.
Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.
Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.
Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:
• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:
• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
Click here to learn more about wood flooring.
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