Find a Carpenter you can trust in Whitland.

Choose from 63 Carpenters, all rated by people like you.

Over 51 reviews & an average rating of 4.3/5 stars, you'll find the right pro

Choose and shortlist

Use the shortlist button to select up to 4 tradespeople, enter your project details and press send

or

Keen to get on with the job?

Get up to 4 quotes from local Carpenters near you

View Shortlist
Verified Pro

BGD Building and Roofing

2 review(s)
Offers services in WHITLAND
Hard working clean building and roofing boys ready for the next care and repair
Verified Pro
Serving the local area we take pride in our work . And our reputation have been build on loyalty to our customers over ...
Verified Pro

The Grass Master

0 review(s)
Offers services in WHITLAND
Established in 2006 The Grass Master Ltd has completed hundreds of landscaping projects across Kent. We cover Artificial L...
Verified Pro

Owner

0 review(s)
Offers services in WHITLAND
At R AND S FECING we provide an excellent service and quality of work we are fully insured and all our materials are from...
Verified Pro

Johns gardening services

0 review(s)
Offers services in WHITLAND
Johns gardening landscaping and maintenance services We are company based in Llandeilo with 4 full time staff and three ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

20 May

Garden | Decking

Whitland - SA34

Enquiry from: Nick O

Start Date: Immediate

Small area of decking sized, Width 10 feet Depth 6 feet Slope about 4 inches front to back Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached What level of service do you...

Post a similar request >

13 Aug

Carpentry

Whitland - SA34

Enquiry from: Steve A

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wooden frame for 2 porches Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have planning permission: Yes If no would you like assistance to seek this: No What material are you looking ...

Post a similar request >

27 May

Carpentry

Carmarthen - SA33

Enquiry from: Ian R

Start Date: Immediate

Bespoke timber kitchen draining board

Post a similar request >

02 May

Garden | Sheds

Tenby - SA70

Enquiry from: Sarah P

Start Date: Immediate

Need a large patch digging out where a shed used to be and it's gone wild, lots of bamboo and weeds. I'd like to make the whole garden more low maintenance but need help with design!

Post a similar request >

04 Mar

Carpentry

Tenby - SA70

Enquiry from: Charlotte R

Start Date: Immediate

Built in bedroom cupboards and wooden flooring downstairs in 2 rooms.

Post a similar request >

16 May

Garden | Decking

Carmarthen - SA33

Enquiry from: Christopher B

Start Date: Immediate

removal of timber boards on balcony deck and stairs, replacement with composite boards, installation of under deck water collection. construction of second area of decking withsteps, next to hot tub. ...

Post a similar request >

10 Mar

Carpentry

Carmarthen - SA33

Enquiry from: Yvonne S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

fit new back door and frame are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window/doors how many windows do you need: n...

Post a similar request >

25 Sep

Interior work | Stud Walls

Narberth - SA67

Enquiry from: Anthony R

Start Date: Immediate

3 large rooms and ceilings dry lined and then skimmed. also some outdoor window sill repairs. by end of october. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many dif...

Post a similar request >

11 Jul

Garden | Decking

Carmarthen - SA31

Enquiry from: Gill S

Start Date: Immediate

buying and constructing 6'x12' decking are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

Post a similar request >

27 Jun

Garden | Decking

Carmarthen - SA31

Enquiry from: Claire D

Start Date: Immediate

i want the back garden decked, it’s not a large area but it’s not level and it’s unusable at the moment. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: semi detached what le...

Post a similar request >

26 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Carmarthen - SA31

Enquiry from: Gill S

Start Date: Immediate

to erect a shed that we have bought are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) do you have a: small garden what level of service are you looking for: install other forms: garden maintenance...

Post a similar request >

20 Feb

Kitchen | Fitting

Tenby - SA70

Enquiry from: Morgan D

Start Date: Immediate

new kitchen.. all parts and labour.

Post a similar request >

15 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Newcastle Emlyn - SA38

Enquiry from: Michael I

Start Date: Immediate

disposal of shed and general waste are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service are you looking for: removal of old please call to appoint

Post a similar request >

20 Feb

Garden | Decking

Tenby - SA70

Enquiry from: Catherine T

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

Post a similar request >

20 Jun

Kitchen | Fitting

Kilgetty - SA68

Enquiry from: Libby H

Start Date: Immediate

Submit your free quote for rated tradespeople

Post a similar request >

10 Sep

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Saundersfoot - SA69

Enquiry from: Mike S

Start Date: Immediate

One 18" x 18" broken pane of double glazing replaced

Post a similar request >

02 Nov

Kitchen | Fitting

Narberth - SA67

Enquiry from: Day M

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Property owner Kitchen fitter Please call to appoint

Post a similar request >

25 Oct

Kitchen | Fitting

Narberth - SA67

Enquiry from: Day M

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Initial upgrade and refit of utility room, leading to separate fitting of new wooden kitchen Are you the property owner: Owner of the property What level of service do you require: Install Only Do you...

Post a similar request >

13 May

Garden | Sheds

Carmarthen - SA33

Enquiry from: Mary H

Start Date: Immediate

build garden shed 12 x 12

Post a similar request >

24 Mar

Garden | Decking

Saundersfoot - SA69

Enquiry from: Colin B

Start Date: Immediate

30 Coppins Park, Pentlepoir SA69 9BR. Garden decking/slabbing

Post a similar request >

How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Whitland is:

£943

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Whitland £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Whitland £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Whitland £638-£978
Wood flooring in Whitland £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Whitland £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Whitland £475-£1,595
Wooden window repair in Whitland £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Whitland

Carpenter FAQs

What is second fix carpentry?

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
How to cut plasterboard?

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
  8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to build decking on a slope?
You might think that building decking on a slope is a no-go, but it’s actually a great way to help you make use of your garden when the ground is sloping. It will provide you with a level surface that you can BBQ on as well as dine alfresco without finding that your meal is rolling down the table. But how do you build decking on a slope? Our guide in the FAQ above, ‘How to build a raised deck’, is the perfect solution – but we’ll break it down here if you just want to get an idea of what’s involved. Dig out the area If you’re laying on soil or turf, you’ll need to dig it out. Dig down and remove all the turf from the area and ensure that there are no weeds or stones in the area you’re going to build your decking on. Since you’re building on a slope, it will be hard to get it level, but dig out to a depth of 50mm and lay weed-control fabric with gravel over the top. Add posts and set with concrete Make holes for posts and add them in, ensuring they’re longer than you need. Make sure they’re level, then fill the holes with a concrete mix to set them in place. Build the outer frame Make sure you always work at the top of the slope when you’re building your decking, and measure where the highest point of the decking will be. Secure the 4 sides of the outer frame and factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Add joists Secure joists along your frame at 400mm intervals. If you get to the last joist and there will be more than a 400mm gap left at the end, add in an extra one for support. Lay your deck boards Screw your deck boards to the joists, ensuring that the deck boards are running in the opposite direction to the joists. For timber boards, you need to make sure you leave an expansion gap of 5-8mm. These steps should give you an idea of whether you want to have a go at building decking on a slope, or whether you want to leave it to the pros.
How is wooden flooring installed

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

 

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

  • Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
  • With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
  • Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
  • Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
  • Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

  • Make use of a porta-nailer.
  • Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
  • Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
  • Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Carpenter help and advice

How it works

Tell us about your Carpenter project

Answer a few quick questions to help us match you with the right Carpenter

Get up to 4 free quotes

Receive no-obligation quotes from 4 Carpenters working in Whitland.

Pick the right pro for you

Compare prices, customer reviews and services, and hire the right Carpenter.

Are you a Carpenter in Whitland?

View our open Carpenter jobs near you

Join today
View Shortlist