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BGD Building and Roofing

2 review(s)
Offers services in CLYNDERWEN
Hard working clean building and roofing boys ready for the next care and repair
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Multi trade home solutions

0 review(s)
Offers services in CLYNDERWEN
Serving the local area we take pride in our work . And our reputation have been build on loyalty to our customers over ...
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The Grass Master

0 review(s)
Offers services in CLYNDERWEN
Established in 2006 The Grass Master Ltd has completed hundreds of landscaping projects across Kent. We cover Artificial L...
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Owner

0 review(s)
Offers services in CLYNDERWEN
At R AND S FECING we provide an excellent service and quality of work we are fully insured and all our materials are from...
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Johns gardening services

0 review(s)
Offers services in CLYNDERWEN
Johns gardening landscaping and maintenance services We are company based in Llandeilo with 4 full time staff and three ...

How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Clynderwen is:

£943

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Clynderwen £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Clynderwen £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Clynderwen £638-£978
Wood flooring in Clynderwen £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Clynderwen £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Clynderwen £475-£1,595
Wooden window repair in Clynderwen £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Clynderwen

Carpenter FAQs

Who makes the best garden sheds?
Who makes the best garden sheds? While you think there might be a straightforward answer, who makes the best shed for you depends on what you need it for, how much space you have and more. We’ll help you find out who makes the best garden shed for you. What to look for in a garden shed Before you fork out for a new shed, consider:
  • What you need the shed for
  • How much space you have
  • How big you need the shed to be
  • Which style of roof you want
  • What material you would like
  • How big your budget is
Once you know the answer to these questions, you can take a look at some of the best brands of garden shed. Shed-Plus Champion Shed-Plus Champion heavy duty sheds are robust wooden garden sheds that have fully ledged and braced doors and integral ‘lock and key’ locking system. They come with a 15-year anti-rot warranty, so should last you a long time; they’re made from 12mm tongue and groove panels which helps to keep them strong and secure for years to come. Our top pick: 8′ x 6′ Heavy Duty Apex Single Door Shed
  • Hand-crafted from Nordic White Spruce
  • Felt roof reinforced with high-grade polyester
  • Tongue and groove cladding makes it more weatherproof so ideal for items that must be kept dry
Forest Garden Forest Garden makes a range of wooden sheds to suit any outdoor space. They offer overlap sheds, which are the cheapest option, shiplap sheds which are tongue and groove, and premium tongue and groove sheds. You’ll be able to find something to suit your budget and your needs. Our top pick: Overlap Pressure Treated 6×4 Pent Shed
  • High eaves for more head height and to store taller items
  • Pent roof and fixed windows allow lots of light
  • Ideal for putting up against a wall or fence
  • Door can be hinged either side
BillyOh BillyOh sheds are affordable wooden sheds that come in lots of shapes and sizes, so you’re bound to find one to suit your garden. They offer wooden floors as an optional extra as well as lots of other things so you can create a bespoke shed that will work best for you. Our top pick: Master Tall Store
  • Ideal for small gardens or those with fewer tools to store
  • Apex roof for water runoff
  • Tongue and groove walls
  • Tall floor-to-gable door
How to build a shed base on uneven ground?
Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out.
  1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
  2. Build a timber frame to size.
  3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
  4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
  5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
  6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.
If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.
How to lay engineered wood flooring?

The cost of just the engineered wood flooringis from £18 to £73 per m2.

How much is plasterboard?

How Much Is Plasterboard?

Do you wish to install plasterboard in the nearest future? If yes, then you’d probably want to know the amount it’s going to cost. Here, we’ll give you a detailed plasterboarding prices breakdown to help you calculate an estimate for your project.

A plasterboarding project including the cost of both materials and labour with the use of a high quality panels is about £4 to £5 per panel. Therefore, if you wish to calculate on the basis of a standard room about 12x12ft would cost about £500 to £600. However, this price can fluctuate significantly depending on the professional as well as the quality of the materials you wish to incorporate in completing the project. We’d recommend that you hire the services of a professional with accreditation as he would provide you with a detailed quote with no hidden charges or costs. To give you a clearer idea, we’ve taken the time out to put together some estimated costs of employing the services of a seasoned professional plasterer to supply and plasterboard your home or office. Let’s take a look!

• A 6 x 12ft room with panels and plasterboard should have an average cost within the range of £250 to £400 and duration of one to two days.

• The individual cost of plasterboarding or drywalling a standard 12 x 12ft room should have an average cost within the range of £500 to £600 and duration of one to three days. These includes 60% for materials used (£330), 30% for tradespersons (£165) and the remaining 10% for waste removal (£55) to give a total cost of £550.

• A 12 x 24ft room with panels and plasterboard should have an average cost within the range of £1000 to £1200 and duration of three to six days.

Can I insulate my shed?

Yes, it is possible to insulate a shed. You might want to do this if you’re planning on working in it during the winter. A professional will be able to help you find an insulated shed or advise you on how to insulate a shed that you already have. Always seek professional advise first before attempting to do this yourself!

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.

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