Find a Carpenter you can trust in Dorset.

Choose from 166 Carpenters, all rated by people like you.

Over 287 reviews & an average rating of 4.4/5 stars, you'll find the right pro

Choose and shortlist

Use the shortlist button to select up to 4 tradespeople, enter your project details and press send

or

Keen to get on with the job?

Get up to 4 quotes from local Carpenters near you

View Shortlist
Verified ProOver 50 Reviews
Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
Verified ProOver 50 Reviews

Tree & Garden Designs

63 review(s)
Offers services in DORSET
I am a family runed business professional and efficient for 30 years !
Verified Pro

Stonehaven Landscapes

2 review(s)
Offers services in DORSET
At stonehaven building and landscapes we take pride in every job we do. We strive to understand what you need and to achie...
Verified Pro

CHS Landscapes

0 review(s)
Offers services in DORSET
CHS Landscapes cover Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire and provide professional landscaping services to both domestic and co...
Verified Pro

Oxford Garden Gang

0 review(s)
Offers services in DORSET
Is your garden not up to your standards? Do you want your garden to look amazing? Well look no further as we Oxford Garden...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

23 Jul

Carpentry

Swanage - BH19

Enquiry from: Andrea S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

new replacement window (2 medium, 1 large, 1 small) and front door. painted to specific ral no. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what type of job are you looki...

Post a similar request >

17 Jul

Carpentry

Lyme Regis - DT7

Enquiry from: Heather W

Start Date: Immediate

Replacing French windows. Remove old French window and replace with new French windows

Post a similar request >

13 Jul

Carpentry

Wareham - BH20

Enquiry from: Ben B

Start Date: Immediate

5 x interior door handles/mechanisms to be repaired/refitted so that the doors close/catch properly. possible replacement of mechanisms if necessary. plus supply/fitting of bathroom door lock. are you...

Post a similar request >

12 Jul

Carpentry

Dorchester - DT2

Enquiry from: Sean N

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

We had a burst pipe in April. We are looking for a carpenter to help us replace our pharmacy furniture/skirtings that have been damaged by water.

Post a similar request >

29 Jun

Carpentry

Sturminster Newton - DT10

Enquiry from: Kathryn Q

Start Date: Immediate

Screed and Kardean lvt flooring (already purchased) installed in kitchen, diner, hallway and downstairs toilet.

Post a similar request >

27 Jun

Carpentry

Christchurch - BH23

Enquiry from: Terry C

Start Date: Immediate

We have two internal doors to be trimmed and hung. The doors are: Ely 2 Glazed 6 Light - https://www.doorsofdistinction.co.uk/interior_doors/internal-prefinished-grooved_doors/Ely-2panel-varnished...

Post a similar request >

28 May

Carpentry

Dorchester - DT2

Enquiry from: Bob G

Start Date: Immediate

A door to be fitted into a frame, the door is not the original door to the frame so I know it will not be perfect but it is in keeping with the other doors in the house

Post a similar request >

20 May

Carpentry

Dorchester - DT1

Enquiry from: Alex L

Start Date: Immediate

We are desperately looking for 2-4 Carpenters for a job we are behind at Dorset County Hospital. Monday to Friday next week. The work is for fitting of fore doors. Skirting, Architraves, and general w...

Post a similar request >

17 May

Carpentry

Dorchester - DT1

Enquiry from: Ian F

Start Date: Less than one month

could i have a quotation to replace the front door and frame on our flat at 17a billingsmoor lane(we live at 17) are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what type of job...

Post a similar request >

16 May

Carpentry

Wimborne - BH21

Enquiry from: Susan A

Start Date: Immediate

Quote to supply and fit a cupboard to house a kitchen boiler.

Post a similar request >

13 May

Carpentry

Bournemouth - BH6

Enquiry from: Ben C

Start Date: Immediate

Please send an email address so that we can email the drawings to you

Post a similar request >

06 May

Carpentry

Shaftesbury - SP7

Enquiry from: Stephen W

Start Date: Less than one month

two small jobs. i need an internal door rehung to open outwards instead of inwards. the second is that i have purchased a new integrated washing machine and the door hinge positions are completely dif...

Post a similar request >

24 Apr

Carpentry

Swanage - BH19

Enquiry from: Andrea S

Start Date: Immediate

We are looking to replace 3 front windows, the front door and the rear bathroom window. This is a holiday cottage but I think you would be able to view and quote without us being there. Many thanks.

Post a similar request >

09 Apr

Carpentry

Dorchester - DT2

Enquiry from: Sophie W

Start Date: Immediate

A garage door and frame fitted, this is a hinged door.

Post a similar request >

22 Mar

Carpentry

Shaftesbury - SP7

Enquiry from: Sally W

Start Date: Immediate

Replacement of two interior barn style doors

Post a similar request >

19 Mar

Carpentry

Swanage - BH19

Enquiry from: Gemma M

Start Date: Immediate

Quote for engineered wood flooring for kitchen, living room and dining room

Post a similar request >

12 Mar

Carpentry

Dorchester - DT2

Enquiry from: Norman T

Start Date: Immediate

hi, i need my worktops fitted in my kitchen. the units are in and levelled

Post a similar request >

12 Mar

Carpentry

Lyme Regis - DT7

Enquiry from: Sarah C

Start Date: Immediate

Looking to replace several wooden windows upstairs in our cottage.

Post a similar request >

11 Mar

Carpentry

Dorchester - DT1

Enquiry from: Matthew H

Start Date: Immediate

Under stairs turning into cupboard/doors.

Post a similar request >

19 Feb

Carpentry

Sturminster Newton - DT10

Enquiry from: Marie H

Start Date: Immediate

I don't know if it's a service you provide, but I'm desperate for someone to fix a creaky staircase and some upstairs floorboards too. Many thanks

Post a similar request >

How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Dorset is:

£1,282

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Dorset £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Dorset £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Dorset £638-£978
Wood flooring in Dorset £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Dorset £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Dorset £2,475-£4,345
Wooden window repair in Dorset £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Dorset

Carpenter FAQs

How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How is wooden flooring installed

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

 

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

  • Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
  • With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
  • Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
  • Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
  • Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

  • Make use of a porta-nailer.
  • Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
  • Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
  • Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
What is second fix carpentry?

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

How to lay decking?
Laying simple, ground-level decking may sound intimidating, but it doesn’t have to be. With careful planning and preparation, you can lay decking that you’ll be proud to show off to neighbours, family and friends. Here are a few tips to get you started. Plan carefully Draw out a plan, to scale, on paper. This will help you to know how many boards you’ll need and ensure that you don’t end up having to cut anything to fit. Prepare the area Measure out the site according to your plan and hammer a peg into each corner, then tie string around each peg to help you see what you’re working with. If you’re not laying on existing slabs, dig into the ground, lifting out turf if it’s there, and check that the site is level. Then add concrete slabs for more stability or lay weed-control fabric over the ground and cover with gravel to further prevent weed growth. Build your sub-frame Since a lot of people ask this, we’ve got a more detailed guide in the FAQ below. Lay your deck boards
  1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
  2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
  3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
  4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.
Although this is a simplified set of instructions, it’s enough for you to see whether you want to attempt to lay decking yourself – and if you don’t, you can get in touch with professionals who will be happy to give you a quote.

Carpenter help and advice

How it works

Tell us about your Carpenter project

Answer a few quick questions to help us match you with the right Carpenter

Get up to 4 free quotes

Receive no-obligation quotes from 4 Carpenters working in Dorset.

Pick the right pro for you

Compare prices, customer reviews and services, and hire the right Carpenter.

Are you a Carpenter in Dorset?

View our open Carpenter jobs near you

Join today
View Shortlist