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Verified Pro

Yorkshire Soundproofing

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Offers services in BARNARD CASTLE
Understanding how soundproofing works can be a bit of a minefield but we are happy to explain how the dB scale works and w...
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Pro lay

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Offers services in BARNARD CASTLE
Professional and friendly service in tree topping and removal roofing fencing’s and driveways patio basic general home mai...
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Haus 12 Interior

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Offers services in BARNARD CASTLE
Haus 12 Interiors is in the kitchen business for over 25 years, you could say that we know a thing or two about designing ...
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Morespace conversions NE

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Offers services in BARNARD CASTLE
Been in the building trade for nearly 30 years there isn't much I haven't done in the building trade. Got all the trades ...
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LNB Services

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Offers services in BARNARD CASTLE
Painting and decorating partnership, covering all aspects of decorating, interior and exterior work carried out..we also d...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

27 Jul

Carpentry

Barnard Castle - DL12

Enquiry from: Dawn C

Start Date: Immediate

Due to carpets being fitted, 5 internal household plain firedoors need re-sizing and re-hung. Job urgent Time scale: Immediate

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21 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Bishop Auckland - DL14

Enquiry from: Marc D

Start Date: Immediate

I've bought a *** plastic shed, I would like a base laying for it and the shed assembling on it too if possible. I would also like some rabbit proofing done around my fences and gate.

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30 May

Garden | Sheds

Bishop Auckland - DL13

Enquiry from: Sophie B

Start Date: Immediate

garden maintenance at least monthly - mow lawn and clear weeds and plant herbs. are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: large garden garden type: front garden work req...

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30 May

Garden | Sheds

Bishop Auckland - DL13

Enquiry from: Sophie B

Start Date: Immediate

customer in the bishop auckland area made an enquiry a couple of projects including garden shed.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you th...

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16 Aug

Garden | Decking

Bishop Auckland - DL13

Enquiry from: Amanda W

Start Date: Immediate

i have 1 acre land. weeding and regular maintenance. pruning, hedge cutting are you the property owner: owner property type: detached do you have a: large garden current state of garden: the garden is...

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06 Oct

Carpentry

Bishop Auckland - DL14

Enquiry from: Mark S

Start Date: Immediate

second hand french doors need fitting asap to garden room / mancave. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what type of job are you looking to have done: other do yo...

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24 Aug

Kitchen | Fitting

Shildon - DL4

Enquiry from: Ray E

Start Date: Immediate

full kitchen fitout. 1st fix plumbing & electrics done. see attached pdf.

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12 May

Kitchen | Fitting

Bishop Auckland - DL14

Enquiry from: Steve F

Start Date: Immediate

move some units and fit and install a built in oven are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service do you require: install only do you have all of the required materials for y...

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27 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Bishop Auckland - DL14

Enquiry from: David J

Start Date: Immediate

we would like you to build a 5x3 apex shed in the rear garden of the property. are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: small garden what level of service are you looking for: ...

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17 Jan

Garden | Decking

Bishop Auckland - DL14

Enquiry from: Samantha J

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Work description: Moving step access to rear garden back 250cm and installing new steps. Removing...

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18 Jan

Carpentry

Crook - DL15

Enquiry from: Norman K

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

New work tops Time scale: 1-3 months Please call to appoint

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26 Jul

Garden | Decking

Bishop Auckland - DL14

Enquiry from: Brent B

Start Date: Immediate

Decking approx 4.5 x 3.5 metres Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached What level of service do you require: Supply and deck Time scale: Immediate

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31 Jul

Garden | Sheds

Crook - DL15

Enquiry from: Nichola B

Start Date: Immediate

Old shed dismantled/removed and replaced with an Apex style shed. Please could the quote include the removal of some bricks and other garden waste. Many thanks Home Owner Call To Appoint

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28 Apr

Garden | Decking

Crook - DL15

Enquiry from: Marlon M

Start Date: Immediate

Just want an idea of price. I will be providing the decking and materials. I also want a fence putting up maybe Homeowner Please contact to appoint

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Barnard Castle is:

£879

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Barnard Castle £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Barnard Castle £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Barnard Castle £638-£978
Wood flooring in Barnard Castle £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Barnard Castle £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Barnard Castle £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Barnard Castle £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Barnard Castle

Carpenter FAQs

What is second fix carpentry?

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

Do I need underlay for a wooden floor?

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
How to lay engineered wood flooring?

The cost of just the engineered wood flooringis from £18 to £73 per m2.

How to lay wood flooring?

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How much is wood flooring?

The cost of wood flooring varies by the type of wood and by the finish required. As a guide though oak solid wood flooring cost about £35 - £45 per m2. The average wooden cost by material are approximately £40 per m2 for pine, £45 per m2 for cherry, £60 per m2 for maple and £75 per m2 for walnut. This price does exclude the laying of the flooring and the underlay required.

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