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Right Pick Fencing

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Offers services in ST NEOTS
Hi our business new and ready for competition! We are able to provide to employees with over 10 years experience that can...
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Nr paving

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Offers services in ST NEOTS
We offer a wide range of Driveways patios building brickwork fencing Block paving tarmac Resin concrete gravel all types o...
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Jds kitchens & berooms

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Supplier and installer of kitchens & bedrooms.
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Monarch home improvements

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Here at Monarch Home Improvements, we take great pride in our expertise and craftsmanship when it comes to roofing, fascia...
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Buildmykitchen

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Offers services in ST NEOTS
If you are looking for a stunning and high-quality kitchen in Milton Keynes at an affordable price, then you're going...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

03 Jun

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Jayd P

Start Date: Immediate

garden sorted out. made safer for children are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: terrace roughly the size of your garden: unsure garden type: back garden do you have a de...

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24 Apr

Carpentry

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Andrew G

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

supply and fit nine internal doors are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window/doors how many windows do you ...

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19 Apr

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: James H

Start Date: Immediate

looking for decking to be fitted in back garden 7m by 3m are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: terrace what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call ...

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19 Apr

Interior work | Stud Walls

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Gordon A

Start Date: Immediate

Stud wall in garage with door

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10 Apr

Garden | Sheds

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Pat K

Start Date: Immediate

customer made an online enquiry for garden shed and confirmed on telephone, sms and email they would like a call with a carpenter to discuss prices.please call to arrange an appointment to quote. are ...

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30 Mar

Garden | Sheds

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Ronald D

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden garden pent shed 8x6

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26 Mar

Garden | Sheds

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Ronald D

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden garden pent shed 8x6

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01 Mar

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Tracy G

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: Lay small patio gastro turf and repair decking

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09 Feb

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Adam J

Start Date: Immediate

decked area at the rear of garden measuring around 35-45 square meters are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: supply and d...

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08 Feb

Garden | Sheds

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Frankie L

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: terrace, work description: end of terrace house needs some work please : huge tree needs reducing in size , ...

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02 Jul

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: John A

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: semi detached, work description: laying decking outside a garden room that is currently laid to lawn. size a...

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18 Jun

Carpentry

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: David R

Start Date: Immediate

skirting board in lounge approx 60feet time scale: immediate please call to appoint

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13 Mar

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: A M

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: Removal of wrotten decking, small amount of fencing and creating a raised flower...

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05 Aug

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Richard J

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: We are looking for a landscaper, initially to create a tree/shrub lined pa...

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24 Jun

Garden | Decking

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Zoe A

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached Time scale: 1-3 months Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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29 Aug

Garden | Sheds

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Stephanie A

Start Date: Immediate

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Terrace Time scale: Immediate Other Forms: None Please call to appoint

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21 Jun

Kitchen | Fitting

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Christine A

Start Date: Immediate

L shaped kitchen and appliances to be removed plus wall tiling. New magnet kitchen to be installed with underhung sink, hot tap, integrated appliances. Electrics need moving plus some additional. Als...

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04 May

Flooring | Wooden

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Amanda F

Start Date: Immediate

Customer visited the myflooringprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property owner: Owner, Work description: I already have the flooring (engineered wood) but am looking for someone to fit it...

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28 Apr

Kitchen | Fitting

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: J C

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Are you the property owner: Owner of the property What level of service do you require: Install only What is your budget for this project: 0-4k How would you define the size of your kitchen: Small/...

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09 Feb

Carpentry

St. Neots - PE19

Enquiry from: Dave J

Start Date: Immediate

Fit kitchen worktops including 2 mitre joints and cutting out for sink and hob Homeowner Please contact to appoint

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in St Neots is:

£879

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in St Neots £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in St Neots £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in St Neots £638-£978
Wood flooring in St Neots £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in St Neots £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in St Neots £450-£690
Wooden window repair in St Neots £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in St Neots

Carpenter FAQs

How to lay solid wood flooring on concrete?

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to fit plasterboard?

How To Fit Plasterboard

If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.

To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.

Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.

• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit

• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.

• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.

• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
What should I do if my deck or terrace is slippery?

Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.

Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
How to put up plasterboard?

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

How to build decking on a slope?
You might think that building decking on a slope is a no-go, but it’s actually a great way to help you make use of your garden when the ground is sloping. It will provide you with a level surface that you can BBQ on as well as dine alfresco without finding that your meal is rolling down the table. But how do you build decking on a slope? Our guide in the FAQ above, ‘How to build a raised deck’, is the perfect solution – but we’ll break it down here if you just want to get an idea of what’s involved. Dig out the area If you’re laying on soil or turf, you’ll need to dig it out. Dig down and remove all the turf from the area and ensure that there are no weeds or stones in the area you’re going to build your decking on. Since you’re building on a slope, it will be hard to get it level, but dig out to a depth of 50mm and lay weed-control fabric with gravel over the top. Add posts and set with concrete Make holes for posts and add them in, ensuring they’re longer than you need. Make sure they’re level, then fill the holes with a concrete mix to set them in place. Build the outer frame Make sure you always work at the top of the slope when you’re building your decking, and measure where the highest point of the decking will be. Secure the 4 sides of the outer frame and factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Add joists Secure joists along your frame at 400mm intervals. If you get to the last joist and there will be more than a 400mm gap left at the end, add in an extra one for support. Lay your deck boards Screw your deck boards to the joists, ensuring that the deck boards are running in the opposite direction to the joists. For timber boards, you need to make sure you leave an expansion gap of 5-8mm. These steps should give you an idea of whether you want to have a go at building decking on a slope, or whether you want to leave it to the pros.

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