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Verified Pro

Total Roof Care

9 review(s)
Offers services in CAMBRIDGESHIRE
Total Roofing Services - Your Trusted Roof Specialists Hey there! We're total Roofing Services, and we're here to take t...
Verified ProOver 10 Reviews
Welcome to Home Counties, our team handle projects large and small from residential to commercial. Our Driveway service...
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Norwich2ipswich

6 review(s)
Offers services in CAMBRIDGESHIRE
only the finest home improvement Products we are dedicated to making your dreams a reality. With Norwich roofing and home ...
Verified Pro

Topknotflooringuk

0 review(s)
Offers services in CAMBRIDGESHIRE
Topknotflooringuk brings 15 years experience in wood floor coverings such as laminate , engineered and solid wood flooring...
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Right Pick Fencing

0 review(s)
Offers services in CAMBRIDGESHIRE
Hi our business new and ready for competition! We are able to provide to employees with over 10 years experience that can...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

19 Jan

Carpentry

Peterborough - PE2

Enquiry from: Ronald E

Start Date: Less than one month

Wooden window repair Lead

a wooden entrance door to my garage won’t open or close easily. it has “grown”. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of job are you looking to hav...

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06 Oct

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Huntingdon - PE28

Enquiry from: Haresh K

Start Date: Immediate

Sash window frameworks are showing signs of wear, cracks in paintwork (wood work) both front and rear of the house. Require advice and quote.

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22 Jul

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB25

Enquiry from: Emma R

Start Date: Immediate

Shelves above sink and possible light. Also other various jobs need doing.

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15 Jul

Flooring | Wooden

Ely - CB6

Enquiry from: Iannish S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

customer in ely area has requested that we arrange quotes for their wood flooring project.they are considering various options and would like to discuss with a carpenter directly.please call to discus...

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14 Jul

Carpentry

Ely - CB6

Enquiry from: Iannish S

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

we would like wooden flooring in a small room (3.3 x 3.3m). thank you! are you the property owner: owner of the property what type of job are you looking to have done: flooring do you require a door(s...

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05 Jul

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB22

Enquiry from: Hannah O

Start Date: Immediate

6 new internal doors fitted please

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19 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Cambridge - CB24

Enquiry from: Laura B

Start Date: Immediate

hello, i am moving out of my rental property in willingham on sunday july 7, and so i was wondering if you could please provide me a cost estimate for tidying up the garden. i am not sure exactly wha...

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17 Jun

Kitchen | Fitting

Huntingdon - PE29

Enquiry from: Richard B

Start Date: Immediate

Fitting a new kitchen, all Pre made units and installing appliances

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10 May

Kitchen | Fitting

Cambridge - CB1

Enquiry from: Peter W

Start Date: Immediate

Rehang top door of two of the fridge-freezer cabinet. Hinges broken on top door - which is removed - Fridge not affected.

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09 May

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB23

Enquiry from: Ben B

Start Date: Immediate

Convert a corner desk to a standing desk. The corner desk is currently attached to the wall. We had in mind that we could cut out the corner section and attach some legs that we'd pre purchase. In the...

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30 Apr

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB23

Enquiry from: Kristen S

Start Date: Immediate

Rotation of the lower portion of the staircase Build 2x stud walls (one with pocket door) for ensuite and 2x small stud walls for entrance way Hanging of doors, door frames & skirting boards

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10 Apr

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB22

Enquiry from: Mark T

Start Date: Immediate

External gable end lean-to structure measuring 7.5m long, 1.6m wide, with post frame structure installed along existing 1.8m high fence line. Clear polycarbonate roof installed to house with flashing....

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03 Apr

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB22

Enquiry from: Khalil A

Start Date: Immediate

I am looking for someone to fit architraves on five door frames? Are you available any time soon?

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17 Mar

Carpentry

Chatteris - PE16

Enquiry from: Philip W

Start Date: Immediate

Door frame on bathroom is rotten at bottom

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04 Mar

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB21

Enquiry from: Ken T

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

Small utility room (2m length) refit involving moving existing cabinets plus couple new units. Re plumbing with new sink, old water softener, new worktop. Retiling small floor space and wall.

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01 Mar

Garden | Decking

Huntingdon - PE26

Enquiry from: Nicki J

Start Date: Immediate

customer in the huntingdon area made an enquiry a couple of projects including wooden decking.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the ...

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29 Feb

Carpentry

Cambridge - CB23

Enquiry from: Ashwini R

Start Date: Immediate

Replace Kitchen door and worktop.

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29 Feb

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Peterborough - PE1

Enquiry from: Jenny H

Start Date: Immediate

Frames repaired, and blown double glazed windows replaced . Approx 11 windows

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05 Feb

Carpentry

Peterborough - PE2

Enquiry from: Jacqui R

Start Date: Immediate

As a registered CITB employer I wanted to check that you are aware of the grants and funding you can access from CITB for any training

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28 Jan

Garden | Sheds

Peterborough - PE7

Enquiry from: Ann-marie C

Start Date: Immediate

Insurance quote- removal of two garden sheds and disposal. Asbestos sheets on roof so will need to be licenced to remove this and hire skip. Replace rear garden grass with new grass. Supply and fit n...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Cambridgeshire is:

£1,018

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Cambridgeshire £1,238-£3,748
Carpenters and joiners in Cambridgeshire £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Cambridgeshire £638-£978
Wood flooring in Cambridgeshire £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Cambridgeshire £1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Cambridgeshire £450-£690
Wooden window repair in Cambridgeshire £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Cambridgeshire

Carpenter FAQs

How to lay engineered wood flooring?

The cost of just the engineered wood flooringis from £18 to £73 per m2.

What should I do if my deck or terrace is slippery?

Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.

What is engineered wood flooring?

What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is produced through the fixing of several layers of wood together with a solid wood as the top or wear layer. Due to its ability to hold its ground when faced with frequently changing temperature and humidity, it happens to be one of the most popular types of flooring. As a result of its ruggedness, engineered wood flooring can be easily fitted with under floor heating and in special areas like conservatories. And apart from its usually stunning visual appeal and ability to be floated over an underlay, the engineered wood flooring is even becoming a lot more popular amongst home and other property owners.

Given the fact that engineered wood flooring is made up of several layers of wood, it may be almost impossible to tell the difference between it and a solid wood flooring just by looking at both. It can also be mistaken for a laminate flooring which is basically an image of wooden flooring placed onto a high density fibreboard.

The planks of a engineered wood flooring is crafted in such a way to ensure the it does not expand or contract unlike the solid wood counterparts. What’s more? There are several benefits that comes with installing an engineered wood flooring. They include:

• Its very easy and simple to install

• When compared to solid wood flooring, it’s more cost effective.

• It can be utilized alongside an under floor heating

• It can be loose laid, meaning it does not need to be fixed in position

• It is available in multiple varieties of wood and finishes

• It can be incorporated alongside an underlay including thermal barriers

• It can be utilized in areas with a fluctuating humidity and temperature.

• It is available in different kinds of thickness.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to find an installer for wooden flooring?

After making the decision to install a new wooden flooring in your home, the next obvious step is finding the right installer to get the job done. When a wooden floor is fitted and properly maintained by the right professional, it will not only outlive the owner but also survive several generations. As a result, finding the perfect installer for your task should be a top priority to get the best return on investment. Here are a few sources that will put you in the right direction to finding a reliable wood flooring installation company.

• Friends, Relatives & Neighbours

If you have a friend, relative or neighbour that has a wooden floor installed in their homes, you can go for a visit to check out the work done. If you’re pleased with the work done, you can proceed to ask about the work ethics of the installer and get the contact if satisfied.

• Store Contact Lists

You’ll discover a long list of wooden flooring contractors on many stores trading flooring materials. These installers may not be affiliated with the store owners, but many stores see it as their responsibility to point you in the right direction so that the flooring material acquired from them can be put to good use.

• Internet

With the rapid rise of online technology, there’s hardly a service you can’t find on the internet. Websites like HomeAdvisor have been helping people find their desired service providers with relative ease for so long. To get the right installer online, it’s advisable to check reviews as well as testimonials before moving forward. Nowadays, you’re most likely going to find so many positive online reviews as some businesses now go to the extent of dubiously writing good reviews for their companies. As a result, it’s recommended to pay closer attention to the negative reviews and check if it’s something you can cope with before hiring an installer for your wooden flooring.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to lay solid wood flooring on floorboards?

Do you have existing floorboards and wish to fit new solid wood floor over it? If you’re planning to go for a DIY effort, there are a number of things you should put into consideration before you even get started. Firstly, you should have it in mind that existing softwood floorboards are usually not flat, implying that the surface of the existing might not be ideal to serve as the foundation on which to put your new solid wood flooring. Secondly, if you’re going to lay the new solid floor on the existing floorboards, it would be wise to select wood that is a minimum of 18mm thick to make your new solid wood flooring a lot more stable.

If you discover that your old floor is not too even, there are two option you can consider to protect your investment. You can lay the new floor at a 90 degree angle over the existing one. In other words, you should lay the new floor lengthways if the old one is laid widthways. Using this technique alongside a method of fitting referred to as secret nailing will go a long way to make sure your installation efforts is a successful one.

The second option you can put into consideration when laying solid wood flooring over old ones is to lay chipboard or plywood over the existing floor prior to the installation of the new floor. Here, there will be an increase in the cost of your installation, however it will be more reliable and durable as it assists in ensuring the stability of your new flooring. Some benefits that comes with this option includes the freedom to lay the new solid wood flooring in any direction you want as well as the freedom to use any fitting method you deem fit. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.

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