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Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening a...
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At stonehaven building and landscapes we take pride in every job we do. We strive to understand what you need and to achie...
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We are a family run business with an array of experience and knowledge in the kitchen and bedroom industry. We offer the ...
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Jm2TilingCo

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Here at Jm2TilingCo standards are kept to the absolute highest level. I will always leave a job clean and well done, plus ...

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

18 Jun

Kitchen | Fitting

Iver - SL0

Enquiry from: Yvonne N

Start Date: Immediate

required for 1 day to fit work tops, unit handles, create a sliding shelf, and if time permits, open and fit the 4 remaining intermetal unit shelves. are you the property owner: owner of the property...

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11 Nov

Carpentry

Iver - SL0

Enquiry from: Jeanie W

Start Date: Less than one month

4 internal doors supply and fit are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: detached what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window/doors how many windows do you need: n...

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27 Jun

Kitchen | Fitting

Maidenhead - SL6

Enquiry from: Pauline L

Start Date: Immediate

Remove old kitchn, install new. Update electrics and add extra sockets. Tile lay flooring paint walls above tiling

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09 May

Garden | Sheds

High Wycombe - HP10

Enquiry from: Joanne C

Start Date: Immediate

Wooden window repair Lead

The roof on my large garden shed needs replacing, it currently has a felt roof which has partly blown away during the recent storms, it has a double pitched roof and all needs replacing. It doesn’...

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04 Jan

Carpentry

Maidenhead - SL6

Enquiry from: Irfan B

Start Date: Immediate

The interior doors trimmed inside the house.

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10 Nov

Carpentry

Maidenhead - SL6

Enquiry from: Irfan B

Start Date: Immediate

Doors hanged skirting boards architrave cupboard

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12 Oct

Interior work | Stud Walls

Bagshot - GU19

Enquiry from: Evelyn C

Start Date: Immediate

We would like to renovate our utility room and we need stud walls/plasterboard with insulation to avoid heat/moisture. Also, we need to overboard the ceiling.

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04 Sep

Carpentry

High Wycombe - HP13

Enquiry from: Zara A

Start Date: Immediate

i need 3 doors shaved from the bottom and the doors put back on are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: terrace what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden window...

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12 Aug

Windows | Wooden | Repair

High Wycombe - HP15

Enquiry from: Cleo H

Start Date: Immediate

to replace some damaged frames and paint all window frames for preservation

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05 Aug

Carpentry

High Wycombe - HP12

Enquiry from: Andrew T

Start Date: Immediate

2 internal doors fitted, one door changed so hinge on other side of the frame. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of job are you looking to have d...

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31 Jul

Garden | Decking

Bracknell - RG12

Enquiry from: Oleksandr P

Start Date: Immediate

replace old wooden deck 14m2 in the back garden are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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22 Jul

Garden | Decking

Bracknell - RG12

Enquiry from: Oleksandr P

Start Date: Immediate

replace old wooden deck 14m2 in the back garden are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoint

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19 Jul

Carpentry

Bourne End - SL8

Enquiry from: Joseph M

Start Date: Immediate

supply and fit a new internal door for the downstairs toilet. i could perhaps buy a new door from wickes if you could cut it to size and fit it? are you the property owner: owner of the property what ...

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06 Jul

Carpentry

Maidenhead - SL6

Enquiry from: Charlotte G

Start Date: Immediate

i think i need the door frame replaced but would need some guidance are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what type of job are you looking to have done: wooden windo...

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05 Jul

Carpentry

Maidenhead - SL6

Enquiry from: Yiru Z

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

hello, we would like you to remove 4 existing internal doors, fit door handles on new ones, and hang the new ones back on the frame please. are you the property owner: owner of the property property ...

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23 May

Flooring | Wooden

Bracknell - RG42

Enquiry from: Claire F

Start Date: Immediate

i am looking for someone who can fit solid wood in the living room, dinning room, hallway and stair case are you the property owner: owner of the property how many rooms are you looking to update with...

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29 Apr

Carpentry

Maidenhead - SL6

Enquiry from: Xian G

Start Date: Immediate

i would like to replace an existing internal door. the new door is a solid core door and is 10mm thicker than the existing door and so the door stop needs to be adjust as well. we would also like to h...

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26 Apr

Carpentry

Bracknell - RG12

Enquiry from: MR M

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

i need to fit a new composite front door and a new composite kitchen door to replace the existing wooden doors and frames. i am looking to buy the doors online from justdoorsuk.com and need a quote to...

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18 Nov

Garden | Decking

Marlow - SL7

Enquiry from: Paul H

Start Date: Immediate

repair to existing decking to replace rotten decking in a bbq area. also to fit new decking in on the back of an extension. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detach...

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23 Oct

Garden | Sheds

High Wycombe - HP11

Enquiry from: David C

Start Date: Immediate

i have. 12 x 8 modular shed that needs building. looking for a quote are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: large garden what level of service are you looking for: install p...

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Iver is:

£1,073

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Iver £1,238-£3,748
Carpenters and joiners in Iver £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Iver £638-£978
Wood flooring in Iver £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Iver £663-£3,363
Garden shed in Iver £300-£545
Wooden window repair in Iver £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Iver

Carpenter FAQs

How much is decking?
How much decking costs depends on the type of material you go for, how big you want your decking to be and where you live in the country. But typically, the cost of decking is between £1,200 - £1,800. The most popular material for decking is pre-treated softwood, which will set you back around £1,000 for 15m2. Hardwood is more expensive but is more durable, and will cost approximately £2,000 for the same amount. Homeowners are also beginning to choose composite decking, which is made from recycled plastic and wood fibres, and is low-maintenance and eco-friendly. This will cost around £1,600 for 15m2, while uPVC which is also a low-maintenance option costs around £600. People tend to choose composite over uPVC because it looks more like natural timber. If you’re a competent DIYer, you might want to have a go at laying decking yourself which will set you back around £1,000 for a standard softwood timber deck. We think it’s worth paying the extra £600 for a professional to lay your decking, since they will be able to do it much more quickly. If you do want to try it yourself, we recommend leaving at least a whole weekend open to do it, but it’s likely to take you longer. Factor in the possibility of having to take time off work to complete it and it might be more cost-effective to leave it to the pros.
Where should I put my garden shed?

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How is wooden flooring installed

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

 

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

  • Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
  • With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
  • Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
  • Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
  • Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

  • Make use of a porta-nailer.
  • Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
  • Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
  • Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
  • Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
  • Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.
How to plasterboard a wall?

How To Plasterboard A Wall

If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!

• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.

• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.

• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.

• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.

• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.

• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.

• Cut the end boards to length.

• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.

• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.

We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.

Does my garden shed need a base?

Yes, your shed does need a base. This is to give it a solid, level foundation. Open soil will not help with the longevity of the shed itself or the contents within. The best materials to use to make your shed base are concrete, natural stone or wood.

Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

How to build decking on a slope?
You might think that building decking on a slope is a no-go, but it’s actually a great way to help you make use of your garden when the ground is sloping. It will provide you with a level surface that you can BBQ on as well as dine alfresco without finding that your meal is rolling down the table. But how do you build decking on a slope? Our guide in the FAQ above, ‘How to build a raised deck’, is the perfect solution – but we’ll break it down here if you just want to get an idea of what’s involved. Dig out the area If you’re laying on soil or turf, you’ll need to dig it out. Dig down and remove all the turf from the area and ensure that there are no weeds or stones in the area you’re going to build your decking on. Since you’re building on a slope, it will be hard to get it level, but dig out to a depth of 50mm and lay weed-control fabric with gravel over the top. Add posts and set with concrete Make holes for posts and add them in, ensuring they’re longer than you need. Make sure they’re level, then fill the holes with a concrete mix to set them in place. Build the outer frame Make sure you always work at the top of the slope when you’re building your decking, and measure where the highest point of the decking will be. Secure the 4 sides of the outer frame and factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Add joists Secure joists along your frame at 400mm intervals. If you get to the last joist and there will be more than a 400mm gap left at the end, add in an extra one for support. Lay your deck boards Screw your deck boards to the joists, ensuring that the deck boards are running in the opposite direction to the joists. For timber boards, you need to make sure you leave an expansion gap of 5-8mm. These steps should give you an idea of whether you want to have a go at building decking on a slope, or whether you want to leave it to the pros.

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