Garden | Sheds
Buckie - AB56
Enquiry from: Alex C
Start Date: Immediate
9ft long x 5ft width wooden or metel shed
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Buckie - AB56
Enquiry from: Alex C
Start Date: Immediate
9ft long x 5ft width wooden or metel shed
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Jennifer S
Start Date: Immediate
Front and back door wooden frame repair, new hinges etc.
Fochabers - IV32
Enquiry from: David G
Start Date: Immediate
17 No. sash and case windows require refurbishment. Missing and loose putty to be replaced. Wooden window sills replaced. General refurbishment of any damaged woodwork. All sanded and primed and finis...
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Heather M
Start Date: Immediate
I would like to get upvc decking built and the base of my static boxed in...is this something you could quote me for ?zI have drawings of what I would like...thanks..Heather.
Keith - AB55
Enquiry from: Struan M
Start Date: Immediate
customer in the keith area made an enquiry a couple of projects including wooden decking.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the prope...
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Anne R
Start Date: Immediate
Something to keep two adults bikes ,garden furniture,mower, garden tools and still have room to potter about . Would like roof to have iron no felt
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Margaret B
Start Date: Immediate
weekly / fortnightly gardener services, lawn cutting, leaf clearing, slab cleaning, weeding, tree maintenance. are you the property owner: relative of owner do you have a: medium size garden what leve...
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Paul S
Start Date: Immediate
wanting concreted for a shed measuring 8x6 feet are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) do you have a: small garden what level of service are you looking for: supply other forms: slab pa...
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Stella S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 5+ property age: pre 1900 what is your current source of heating for the renewable incentive: ...
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Stella S
Start Date: Immediate
are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 5+ property age: pre 1900 what is your current source of heating for the renewable incentive: ...
Keith - AB55
Enquiry from: Robin L
Start Date: Immediate
are you the property owner: owner of the property is this for a residential or commerial building: domestic other forms: wood flooring agreed to receive quotes for selected products: yes please call ...
Keith - AB55
Enquiry from: Alistair W
Start Date: Immediate
An 8 x 10 greenhouse Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Roughly the size of your garden: 31+ m2 Garden Type: Back garden, Front garden Do you have a design: Y...
Keith - AB55
Enquiry from: Euan S
Start Date: Less than one month
I am looking for a quote for a 12ft by 8 or 10ft shed with 2 x windows. I would also like to partition up to about 4ft high (at the back of the shed) to make a dog kennel with a hinged roof. also a h...
Fochabers - IV32
Enquiry from: Suzanne J
Start Date: Immediate
Window panel has a massive crack in it. Frame is old style window frame that slides up and down. Number of Windows: 1 Material: Wood Are you the property owner: Tenant (with permission) What level of...
Keith - AB55
Enquiry from: Cath T
Start Date: Less than one month
New worktops , splashback , electrical points , hob and sink . Are you the property owner: Owner of the property What level of service do you require: Install Only Do you have all of the required mate...
Banff - AB45
Enquiry from: Reg B
Start Date: Immediate
Base for 10 x 12 shed and erect shed
Fochabers - IV32
Enquiry from: R M
Start Date: Immediate
Re-felt and timber board a large wooden shed
Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!
Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.
The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.
View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter adviceCarpenter job | Carpenter cost in 2025 |
---|---|
Kitchen Fitting in Buckie | £975-£2,495 |
Carpenters and joiners in Buckie | £375-£575 |
Plasterboard dry lining in Buckie | £638-£978 |
Wood flooring in Buckie | £750-£1,150 |
Wooden decking in Buckie | £1,125-£1,725 |
Garden shed in Buckie | £450-£690 |
Wooden window repair in Buckie | £320-£480 |
Most of the people out there do not know the difference between a carpenter and a joiner. This is a very common question that is asked by many as to whether there is an actual difference between the two.
Both joiners and carpenters have many shared traits. The definition seems to change throughout the UK. The southern parts use the term carpenter whereas the north seems to prefer the term joiner. Both of these trades involve working with wood mainly in the construction industry. Both of them are, however, are two very unique and separate trades. Both of them come under the broad term of ‘carpentry’ however their skills and specialisms differ.
A joiner is defined as a trained craftsman who is responsible for making or joining wood in a workshop. On the other hand, a carpenter is a professional that works on site with the timber. In summary, a joined creates the wood back at the workshop while the carpenter fixes them on site. A joiner, therefore, works on things that are done in a workshop using machinery while a carpenter is responsible for its assembly on site.
As both joiners and carpenters had learnt the basics of both trade while they were practising as an apprentice, several similar overlaps are bound to occur.
It is good practice to ask the company or the individual what trade they specialise in. As an example, a joiner may be able to make a particular item whereas a carpenter may be better doing the actual fitting.
It is evident from the above sections that carpentry and joinery are completely different and therefore, should be categorised under two different trades, however, there is indeed a lot in common in their extremely high skilled work.
Are you a new homeowner? Or perhaps you’re simply looking to revitalize your home by adding some new flooring options. Wooden flooring is one of the most popular flooring options amongst home and property owners in the UK due to the multiple benefits it offers. It adds your home’s curb appeal making it stand out while also adding to resale value of your home - should you decide to sell in the near future. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, you have two options which includes carrying out the installation yourself or calling in a professional for help. While some homeowners would prefer to tackle this themselves, it’s highly advisable to get professional support for the project. In this article, we’re going to consider some of the benefits you stand to derive from getting your wooden flooring installed by a professional. Let’s take a look! Efficient installation. Since professionals do this type of work almost on a daily basis, they’re generally able to complete a basic job within a day or two. With them, you’d be certain that you job would be completed to perfection within a certain timeframe. Access to a range of wooden flooring options. Professionals are usually familiar with top notch wooden flooring options so they’re able to make recommendations on the most suitable wooden flooring type for your home and needs. Flooring removal. Professionals typically remove old or existing flooring and clean up the area prior to the installation of the new wooden flooring. This way, you wouldn’t have to bother about hiring someone else to remove the existing flooring or to clean up the entire area before you can be able to install the new wooden flooring yourself.
Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.
Do you have existing floorboards and wish to fit new solid wood floor over it? If you’re planning to go for a DIY effort, there are a number of things you should put into consideration before you even get started. Firstly, you should have it in mind that existing softwood floorboards are usually not flat, implying that the surface of the existing might not be ideal to serve as the foundation on which to put your new solid wood flooring. Secondly, if you’re going to lay the new solid floor on the existing floorboards, it would be wise to select wood that is a minimum of 18mm thick to make your new solid wood flooring a lot more stable.
If you discover that your old floor is not too even, there are two option you can consider to protect your investment. You can lay the new floor at a 90 degree angle over the existing one. In other words, you should lay the new floor lengthways if the old one is laid widthways. Using this technique alongside a method of fitting referred to as secret nailing will go a long way to make sure your installation efforts is a successful one.
The second option you can put into consideration when laying solid wood flooring over old ones is to lay chipboard or plywood over the existing floor prior to the installation of the new floor. Here, there will be an increase in the cost of your installation, however it will be more reliable and durable as it assists in ensuring the stability of your new flooring. Some benefits that comes with this option includes the freedom to lay the new solid wood flooring in any direction you want as well as the freedom to use any fitting method you deem fit. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.
Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.
First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).
After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.
In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.
It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
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