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Check your Price's door installation cost calculator and charges guide will allow you to estimate both typical labours only costs for door hanging & installations, renovations and repairs as well as the total estimate for comprehensive door installation projects.

• Door & Frame Installation Job and the average Cost in £'s

• uPVC door installation including glazing & architrave costs around £90 per door

• uPVC french & patio door sets including glazing & architrave costs around £120 per pair

• Softwood french & patio door sets including architrave costs around £180 per door

• Hardwood french & patio door sets including architrave would cost around £250 per pair

• Softwood internal door hanging only would be around £40 per door

• Hardwood internal door hanging only would set you back around £48 per door

• Softwood external door hanging only is around £60 per door

• Hardwood external door hanging would cost around £70 per door

• Locks, letterboxes & door furniture timber doors are around £15 per Item

• Glazing £15 per pane

• Brick cut-outs single doors is around £60 per cut-out

• French or patio door brick cut-outs will be around £90 per cut-out

• New lintels will cost around £150 per lintel

Door Repair Costs and Charges

Estimate door mending labour charges by totalling the unit costs of the mandatory jobs. The complete door repair cost includes the total labour charge plus the cost of all parts, fixtures and fittings. A call out charge may be added on jobs totalling less than £100.

Average Cost of Door Repair Job

Replacement glazing units for uPVC doors will be around £15 per unit

Replacement glazing units for timber doors is around £20 per unit

Replacement door glass pined & putty will cost£30 per pane

Replacement handles are around £10 each and general repair work will cost you £25 per hour

Building & FENSA certificate charges

FENSA certificates are obligatory for maximum door replacements and new build setting up prices differ from council to council.

Average Cost of Window Repair Job: One to two doors will cost around £85

Average Cost of Door Fixtures & Fittings Removal Job

Removing internal doors will cost around £10

Removing internal door liners will cost around £15

Removing external timber doors will cost about £10

Removing External timber door frame will be around £20

Removing external uPVC door & frame removal will be around £30 and Rubbish disposal will cost £150 per ton.

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

• Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
• Timber for the frame and legs
• Type 1 MOT hardcore

1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.

How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

When you’re building or redesigning your kitchen, one of the most important decisions you’d have to make is your kitchen cabinets. They are basically where you’ll keep everything you use to cook and as such, take up a lot of space in the kitchen. Therefore, if the aesthetic of your kitchen is a priority, then you’d probably want to get the best quality and good looking cabinet you possibly can. If you’re in the market for new kitchen cabinets, you can put these sources of cabinets into consideration. Let’s take a look!

• IKEA. One of the best place to buy affordable home goods is also a great place to check if you want to buy your kitchen cabinets. According to a research carried out by J.D Power which surveyed over 1500 customers within the past one year, IKEA’s cabinet system ( Sektion) ranked the highest in terms of the overall satisfaction.
• KraftMaid. Another winner of the survey conducted by J.D Power as it took the second position when it comes to the overall satisfaction. Therefore, this store happens to be a good option based on the reviews. This store provides you with a wide variety of colour options to select from, so regardless of what your personal preference is, you’re guaranteed to find something worthwhile to install in your kitchen.
• Stoffer Home. When you buy your kitchen cabinet from an interior designer, there’s a better chance for suitability. Stoffer home offers top quality cabinets which can be manufactured in four various wood finishes and twelve varying paint colours which are all carefully curated.

Do you have existing floorboards and wish to fit new solid wood floor over it? If you’re planning to go for a DIY effort, there are a number of things you should put into consideration before you even get started. Firstly, you should have it in mind that existing softwood floorboards are usually not flat, implying that the surface of the existing might not be ideal to serve as the foundation on which to put your new solid wood flooring. Secondly, if you’re going to lay the new solid floor on the existing floorboards, it would be wise to select wood that is a minimum of 18mm thick to make your new solid wood flooring a lot more stable.

If you discover that your old floor is not too even, there are two option you can consider to protect your investment. You can lay the new floor at a 90 degree angle over the existing one. In other words, you should lay the new floor lengthways if the old one is laid widthways. Using this technique alongside a method of fitting referred to as secret nailing will go a long way to make sure your installation efforts is a successful one.

The second option you can put into consideration when laying solid wood flooring over old ones is to lay chipboard or plywood over the existing floor prior to the installation of the new floor. Here, there will be an increase in the cost of your installation, however it will be more reliable and durable as it assists in ensuring the stability of your new flooring. Some benefits that comes with this option includes the freedom to lay the new solid wood flooring in any direction you want as well as the freedom to use any fitting method you deem fit. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.