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K&D joinery

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Offers services in CAIRNDOW
We’re just a small building firm with just 10 men We cover all areas from Glasgow. Edinburgh. Perth. Dundee Fife. Stirl...
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Composite Decking Glasgow

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Offers services in CAIRNDOW
Composite Decking Glasgow was founded in 2008 and remains a family-operated venture. Our inception was driven by a singula...
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Quality plastering

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Offers services in CAIRNDOW
We are a small building maintenance company... Who believe in quality and delivering the customer exactly what they want...
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We have over 14 years experience I have my team / taking big or small jobs Available any time 24-7 make booking with u...
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All garden work private contract professional qualified gardeners at competitive prices no job too small

Recent Carpenter Enquiries

15 Jan

Garden | Sheds

Cairndow - PA25

Enquiry from: Marian R

Start Date: Immediate

Pressure treated shed 8 x 10 Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have a: Large garden What level of service are you looking for: Supply, Install, Removal of old Please call to app...

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10 Apr

Interior work | Stud Walls

Gourock - PA19

Enquiry from: Ian M

Start Date: Immediate

Bedroom ceiling and plasterboard walls stripped out and replaced. Approx. Room size 4m x 5m.

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11 Nov

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Helensburgh - G84

Enquiry from: Eileen M

Start Date: Immediate

A quote for a Replacement window price

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08 Mar

Carpentry

Helensburgh - G84

Enquiry from: Carol K

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead Wooden window repair Lead

i need wood or mdf wood panelling in my hall way. also the holes in the skirting boards put right, because i have raised the sockets that where on the skirting boards. also a wood shelf above the hall...

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05 Feb

Windows | Wooden | Repair

Dunoon - PA23

Enquiry from: Denis H

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

refurbishment of late 60s extention are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what service are you looking for: reglazing how many windows are involved: more than 5 wha...

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11 Sep

Carpentry

Gourock - PA19

Enquiry from: Fiona M

Start Date: Immediate

Replace worktop and possibly new sink and hob

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25 Jun

Garden | Decking

Gourock - PA19

Enquiry from: Jill H

Start Date: Immediate

an extension onto current decking, already have the materials are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: deck only please cal...

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29 Mar

Garden | Decking

Gourock - PA19

Enquiry from: Kenny W

Start Date: Immediate

customer in the gourock area made an enquiry a couple of projects including wooden decking.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the pro...

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02 Feb

Garden | Sheds

Dunoon - PA23

Enquiry from: Douglas F

Start Date: Immediate

hello. i need a shed to accommodate a freezer and a clothes drier with some space to spare. the area i have in mind would take a 5ft x 7ft or perhaps larger. i would like a substantial shed with a do...

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26 Aug

Kitchen | Fitting

Helensburgh - G84

Enquiry from: Bernadette W

Start Date: Immediate

removal of internal wall and relocate kitchen units and in stalling an island are you the property owner: owner of the property what level of service do you require: design and install what is your bu...

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12 Aug

Garden | Decking

Gourock - PA19

Enquiry from: Vivien R

Start Date: Immediate

decking round area levelled for paddling pool, to allow safe access are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what level of service do you require: supply and deck pleas...

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23 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Dunoon - PA23

Enquiry from: Jonathan H

Start Date: Immediate

we would like a 6ft by 10ft shed supplying and building. door in narrow side, no windows. are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: large garden what level of service are you lo...

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22 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Dunoon - PA23

Enquiry from: Johnny M

Start Date: Immediate

I’m preparing a concrete base for a wooden Pent Shed : 10ft L x 3.5ft D x 7ft H. Ideally double doors.

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22 May

Garden | Sheds

Dunoon - PA23

Enquiry from: Margaret M

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Glass conservatory standalone 4metres x 4 metres Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have a: Large garden What level of service are you looking for: Supply, Install Time scale: 1-...

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12 Jun

Carpentry

Helensburgh - G84

Enquiry from: Kathleen M

Start Date: Less than one month

Door to be put on a recess and shelves put in and top wardrobe doors to be rehung

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31 May

Carpentry

Helensburgh - G84

Enquiry from: Kathleen M

Start Date: Less than one month

D oor putting on a recess and shelves installing

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09 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Gourock - PA19

Enquiry from: Rosemary L

Start Date: Immediate

Six feet x four feet.

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05 Feb

Garden | Sheds

Dunoon - PA23

Enquiry from: Mrs P

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

garden sheds and paved area Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have a: Medium size garden What level of service are you looking for: Supply, Install, Removal of old Time scale:...

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07 Jul

Garden | Decking

Helensburgh - G84

Enquiry from: Martin J

Start Date: Immediate

We are looking to get a large area of our rear garden decked with composite decking which will be strong enough to hold a hot tub & also have the wooden decking replaced with composite on our balcony,...

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11 Jan

Carpentry

Helensburgh - G84

Enquiry from: Eddie C

Start Date: Immediate

Build a stud partition to fit water closet. Unit 8.5 sq meters minus door opening. Quote to include labour, material incl sound insulation. - : - : - : Time scale: Immediate

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How much do Carpenter services cost?

Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!

Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.

The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.

View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice

The average price
of a Carpenter in Cairndow is:

£807

Carpenter job Carpenter cost in 2024
Kitchen Fitting in Cairndow £975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Cairndow £375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Cairndow £638-£978
Wood flooring in Cairndow £750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Cairndow £613-£1,363
Garden shed in Cairndow £275-£845
Wooden window repair in Cairndow £320-£480

Related Carpenter searches in Cairndow

Carpenter FAQs

How to dot and dab plasterboard?

How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

How much is decking?
How much decking costs depends on the type of material you go for, how big you want your decking to be and where you live in the country. But typically, the cost of decking is between £1,200 - £1,800. The most popular material for decking is pre-treated softwood, which will set you back around £1,000 for 15m2. Hardwood is more expensive but is more durable, and will cost approximately £2,000 for the same amount. Homeowners are also beginning to choose composite decking, which is made from recycled plastic and wood fibres, and is low-maintenance and eco-friendly. This will cost around £1,600 for 15m2, while uPVC which is also a low-maintenance option costs around £600. People tend to choose composite over uPVC because it looks more like natural timber. If you’re a competent DIYer, you might want to have a go at laying decking yourself which will set you back around £1,000 for a standard softwood timber deck. We think it’s worth paying the extra £600 for a professional to lay your decking, since they will be able to do it much more quickly. If you do want to try it yourself, we recommend leaving at least a whole weekend open to do it, but it’s likely to take you longer. Factor in the possibility of having to take time off work to complete it and it might be more cost-effective to leave it to the pros.
How much maintenance will a wooden deck need?

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

How to build a shed base on uneven ground?
Building a shed base on uneven ground can be as easy as digging out a sub-base and checking that it’s level. You can dig down until the soil is light brown and rather compact, then work out where the ground is uneven and move soil around to compensate. Add a weed-blocking membrane down then put plastic grids in to act as your shed base or continue to make a sub-base for paving slabs or concrete. However, you could also build a timber shed base on uneven ground using concrete blocks to level it out.
  1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
  2. Build a timber frame to size.
  3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
  4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
  5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
  6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.
If you’ve got any questions about building a shed base on uneven ground, it’s best leaving it to the pros. Get in touch with a range of builders who will be able to offer you a quote.
How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
How to fit wooden flooring?

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to put up plasterboard?

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

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