Find a Builder you can trust in Devizes.

Getting the opportunity to fit your very own bespoke wardrobe in your home is a really exciting prospect. However, when planning to install customizable fitted wardrobe, one factor that turns off most home and property owners is the belief that the bespoke solution is actually a very expensive one. But the fact, in reality, is that so far you’re prepared for any associated costs bespoke fitted wardrobes should not make you break the bank to get one done in your home. So if you’re planning to install this type of fitted wardrobe and wondering about the cost, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we’ve put together the price range estimate as well as the potential extra costs to help you plan ahead and get your dream wardrobe without having to worry too much about unpleasant surprises along the way. Let’s take a look!

With some companies you’ll be provided with a fixed price which can’t be negotiated. While prices from other suppliers will usually start within the range of £1400 to about £1700 for the standard wood finish wardrobe, but this can also reach about £5000 or more for high end or premium finishes, without taking the cost of the added extras into consideration. Ultimately, this often implies having to pay out more money for interiors and additional features than you’re likely going to need. Below is a rough guide to the cost of fitted wardrobes from Spaceslide:

✓ The price for a 2, 3 or 4 door sliding wardrobe starts at £452.37.

✓ The price for a 3 door fitted wardrobe starts at £659.07

✓ The price for a 4 door fitted fitted wardrobe starts at £865.77.

Additional costs you’ll have to consider before getting started includes the cost of hiring installers as well as delivery and removal cost.

Rendering a house’s external walls is one of the cheapest and most effective ways by which a building can be made waterproof and also good looking. If you’re thinking about rendering your house, figuring out the cost of completion is usually one of the most important things you’ll have to consider before you proceed and if you don’t know where to start, finding an experienced tradesperson who possesses several years of experience as well as the ability to overcome the different issues that he may be faced with while on the project is paramount. If you’re able to get one, however, you should know that they rarely come cheap.

When trying to determine the accurate house rendering cost estimate , a tradesperson will put into consideration a great number of factors. Even at that, a rough estimate still requires both skills and expertise to be able to take into account all the necessary factors. In general, a typical 3 bedroom home in the UK will cost within the range of £4000 to about £5500 for a complete render job on the outside and covering from top to bottom.

Usually, the most important factor which play the biggest role when determining rendering costs is the area that’s going to be covered by the render mix. Professional contractors will provide a quote based on the rendering costs per square metre. Below are some rough estimates of rendering costs of properties depending on their size (without VAT).

✓ For a small mid terrace house of about 40 to 50 square metre, the total rendering cost estimate is £3000 to £4000.

✓ For a large mid terrace house of about 70 to 180 square metre, the total rendering cost estimate is £3000 to £5000.

✓ For a three bedroom detached house of about 100 to 160 square metre, the total rendering cost estimate is £4000 to £5500.

Rendering is an external wall’s plastered finish which provides a smooth finish while also protecting the brickwork from the elements like rain, snow and the likes. The traditional rendering is normally applied in two or three coats which enables it to be more resistant to surface cracks. In modern times, the finishes are largely different from the grey pebble dash of post war housing. Today, we now have a plethora of specialist products to pick from such as through-coloured silicone renders as well as one coat renders. The types of renders include the following:

✓ Cement renders. These are the common option that are usually mixed on site and used in a number of applications, then painted when dried. There’s a need to paint this type of render regularly to keep them looking great.

✓ Polymer renders. These are pre mixed and mostly pre coloured (usually with through colouring).

✓ Through-coloured products. These rendered do not need to be painted as the pigment is already added in the manufacturing process to colour the whole render.

✓ Lime renders. These are superior to cement as they’re less likely to trap moisture in the brickwork and also more good looking. However, they’re generally more costly and more difficult to apply.

Overall, rendering on a house provides several benefits. Not only is it able to protect your brickwork against the elements like the rain and wind, but it can also make the building more efficient. Being fully aware that about 30 percent of the energy used in heating a home is lost via the external walls, making use of a product such as acrylic insulated render is a smart approach to improve your home’s energy efficiency without affecting your interior living space.

Asides the questions relating to planning permission of a loft conversion as well as the total cost of completing a loft conversion project, this is perhaps the most common question on the loft conversion subject matter. Before making an investment decision, many homeowners will want to know just how disruptive a loft conversion is. Well, we’ve all heard the several horror stories when loft conversion builder with dirty boots tramples all over the fresh and just-acquired shag pile or the noise of the construction loud enough to annoy neighbours from four blocks away or an obvious shortage of teabags, sugar and lots more. Good news is, the disruption of loft conversion is not as bad as people make out. Let’s have a look at how it works!

Just like all other major building projects, a loft conversion is disruptive to your property. However, no two loft conversions are the same, therefore some are certain to be more drastic and invasive than others. In the long run, the project is worth the stress and inconveniences caused and in most cases, it’s usually a very good investment.

Normally, an average loft conversion is expected to last for about 9 to 12 weeks (depending on the complexity of the loft conversion project some might take longer). Some of the factors that affects the duration of a project includes the type of the loft, the design of the loft as well as the style of the property.

Generally, a loft conversion is a lot less disruptive than say completely moving a home. It all has to do with how you’re able to deal with it as a person. And besides, the effect it’s going to have to a large extent depends on the company you hire. A good company will always look to ensure to keep disruptions to a minimal when carrying out the loft conversion project.

Have you decided to improve your property instead of moving? The common problem most homeowners face after deciding to embark on a home extension project is not knowing where to start. In this article we’ll walk you through everything you need to consider and put in place before commencement of your home extension project.

• Is the extension worth it?

Before breaking the bank, you must be sure that the project will add good value to your home. In terms of “value, this is not only limited to the financial gain after disposal of the property, but also several other juicy benefits to be derived from extending your home like an extra living space for the household to spread out and more.

• Do you need a planning permission?

Check with your local authority to determine whether or not you’ll require to submit an application. You can also consult a building expert like an architect for advice.

• What are the building regulation?

Even though planning permission can be dodged, you can not avoid building regulations. These regulations are the set national minimum standards for construction and design which you must comply with to ensure the safety of the individuals in and around it.

• Who will design the extension?

You have to decided whether you’ll hire a professional architect to design the extension or not.

• Who will manage the building work?

If your home extension project is designed and built by a professional company, they’ll be responsible for the management. However, if you decide to use an architect or designed it yourself, you’ll have to hire a main contractor to manage the build.

• How to set the budget?

There are so many factors that can affect the cost of an extension, so it’s better to get the costs from your builder before proceeding.

• Do I need yo inform my home insurance firm?

Absolutely! This is very important as the new extension may affect the rebuilding cost of your property which could have an impact on the policy premium.

• Do I need to inform my neighbours?

It’s very important to discuss your plan with your neighbours before applying for a planning permission and communicate about the concerns they might have.

Over the years, more and more home and property owners are beginning to realize the huge benefits that can be derived from loft insulation being a worthwhile investment. It’s quite worrisome the way in which energy bills have soared over the past 10 years and loft insulation is a considerable affordable energy efficiency measure that can go a long way to help increase your home’s energy savings.

As far back as the 1980’s, the standard when it comes to insulation thickness was 25 mm to 50 mm which was, at the time, considered to be sufficient. However, building regulations have changed the norm that now states that a new build needs to possess 270 mm of insulation in the loft in order to achieve the required u-value of less than 0.16/m2k based on the standard rock wool or sheep wool insulation.

Generally with loft insulation, there’s a law of depreciating returns which implies that the first couple of insulation centimetres will save you many times the cost of the installation, however an extra layer or centimetre is going to add less value to the point where it’ll no longer be wise or worthwhile to add any further centimetre. Therefore, with cheaper energy prices 30 years back, that additional couple of centimetres was not just worthwhile, but with the recent alarming rises in costs of fuel, that additional £10 savings per year has all of sudden changed to £30 which makes it become a lot more attractive.

If you already have 270 mm of loft insulation, regardless of the material you’re looking to add you’re most likely not going to benefit from a top up. The cost of the materials and installation will definitely be too high for the couple of pounds it’ll save you per year.

General construction work should be restricted to the following hours: Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm. Saturdays 8am to 1pm. Most councils advice that noisy work is prohibited on Sundays and bank holidays but you should check with your local council to confirm this.

How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.