House Extensions | Single Storey
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: James B
Start Date: Immediate
i am interested in a two story side extension on a detached property.
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Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: James B
Start Date: Immediate
i am interested in a two story side extension on a detached property.
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: James B
Start Date: Immediate
homeowner house extension please call to appoint
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: James B
Start Date: Immediate
homeowner house extension please call to appoint
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Pauline B
Start Date: Immediate
old loft insulation replaced are you the property owner: owner of the property how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 do you currently have loft insulationn: yes do you require a top up: yes age of proper...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Charlotte K
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the myloftconversionprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Property owner: Relative of owner, Looking to convert into: Living space, Work description: ...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: HOLLy B
Start Date: Immediate
Simple 3 x5 metre extension to rear of house Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Single storey extension Do you have planning permission: No Do you h...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: HOLLy B
Start Date: Immediate
Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Si...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: TANYA W
Start Date: Immediate
BRICK PORCH BUILT Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have planning permission: No What material are you looking for: uPVC What material would you like the roof made from: Tile...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Ralph B
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Customer visited the myloftconversionprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Property owner: Owner, Looking to convert into: Bedroom, Work description: strengthen floor a...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Gary A
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Single storey extension to rear of property. Optional second floor extension above previous extension to side of house. Outline layout plans have been prepared. Property is currently rented. Wor...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: P
Start Date: Immediate
I would like the top floor of my house sound proofed
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: J B
Start Date: Immediate
to screed kitchen floor size 25 metres sq. approx depth75mm ( over existing underfloor heating polypipe attached to 70mm celotex) with faster drying traditional sand/cement mix please asap. easy acce...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Jo M
Start Date: Immediate
Property type: Terrace, Property owner: Owner, Looking to convert into: Bedroom, Work description: Potential bedroom Please contact to appoint
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Richard M
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Garage conversion with bathroom. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have a: Single Garage What will the space be used for: Living Space Do you require Plumbing Work: Yes Int...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Alan H
Start Date: Immediate
Ground floor single extension to rear of house approx 4 x 6 metres, incorporating new kitchen ,toilet and utility room.
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: K R
Start Date: Immediate
two flat roofs to be insulated Homeowner Please contact to appoint
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Pat J
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
KITCHEN INSTALLATION to fit two new 3600 laminate tops with a new hob, new sink, and taps, to existing units Are you the property owner: Owner of the property What level of service do you requ...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Christine T
Start Date: Less than one month
Replacement wardrobe to be fitted in space measuring 1.6m wide and 2.4m high. Preferably 3 doors Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Are you looking to decorate the whole room: No I...
Hassocks - BN6
Enquiry from: Mark C
Start Date: Immediate
Homeonwer house extension Single storey extension Call to appoint
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceThis is an individual who is trained in the art of working with concrete blocks or bricks, clay bricks as well as other kinds of mortar building materials. In a combination of these materials and good bricklaying skills, a bricklayer can build and repair veneer as well as full brick construction, arches, partitions and other structures.
Contrary to many beliefs, a bricklayer actually does more than laying of bricks. There’s more to being a bricklayer than you can probably think of. A single bricklaying projects requires a wide array of skills. Let’s have a look at these skills!
• Using damp resistant materials to seal foundations.
• Spreading mortar between joints and applying them to serve as a thick layer binding the bricks together in rows.
• Reading and working from specifications as well as plans.
• Working with brick-cutting machines.
• Taking charge and caring for cement blocks or bricks, clay bricks and the likes.
• Construction of scaffolding - subject to possession of some licenses in some states.
A bricklayer mostly works outdoors, in the field and may also work at heights. Depending on the job, a bricklayer can work as part of a team or be in contact with the public. They are mostly recruited by building and construction companies and bricklaying sub contractors. However, they can also set up their own private construction firm or become a self employed tradesperson.
A bricklaying qualification is one of just two construction trades which can continue to become a registered builder. And regardless of the form a bricklaying employment takes, there are certain qualities that makes a really good bricklayer. These includes:
• Ability to work at heights and outdoors
• Enjoy practical work
• Technical aptitude
• Good hand-eye coordination
• Independent and yet a team player too
• Top physical fitness
• Attitude and attendance.
Driveways usually sink because they haven’t been laid properly. They may not have been dug deep enough, or the installer might not have used the right materials. This will need to be corrected at the earliest opportunity, although in extreme cases, the driveway may need to be completly be relaid.
For 2 metre solid fences it’s recommended to use concrete posts to support each panel. For smaller 1 metre fences or for picket fences with gaps between each timber piece you can use timber posts. A fencing contractor will be able to advise you on the best materials from the length and requirements of a new fence.
Fitted wardrobes are the best choice of wardrobe for most households and they’re a popular option for several homeowners for a good reason. Not only are they able to efficiently maximize your space and fit into any space no matter how awkward, but they can also be customized to fit your personal needs to feature custom lighting and many more. So if you’re planning to have one fitted but on a tight budget, you’d probably be wondering how you can install a fitted wardrobe in an alcove by yourself. This is a relatively easy task if you’re attentive to the details, however, if you’re not confident enough to pull this off, we’d advise that you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help.
To construct a fitted wardrobe in an alcove, simply follow these steps:
✓ Take a measurement of the available space including the length, breadth and width.
✓ Sketch out what you want the wardrobe to look like while also staying within the measurements. Here, you’ll have to be particular about everything like the drawers, shelves etc.
✓ Build the frames upon which every other construction would be made.
✓ Attach the frames to the wall and floor. Make use of a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill the holes if its a concrete floor.
✓ At this stage, you’ll have to start building your shelves in accordance to the number you’ll need.
✓ Based on the design in step 2 above, you’ll have to add the door at this stage. This is however optional as some homeowners prefer door-less wardrobes.
✓ The final step is to paint the the finished wardrobe to your taste with your choice of colour.
It’s often said that a garage conversion can take anywhere between 1 week to 1 month, depending on the size and scope. But many standard conversions without any plumbing can take as little as 5 days. Your contractor will be able to tell you exactly how long your garage conversion will take.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
With the numerous benefits that comes with the installation of an external wall insulation in a building, it’s also important to find out whether it’s also safe before proceeding to fit one in your home. Firstly, to ensure that external wall insulation systems are safe, they must be BBA approved, which means they’ve been subjected to a thorough testing by the British Board of Agrement and therefore, suitable for use in UK homes.
Given the fact that cladding materials have recently generated a lot of debate and negative press about how reliable some particular materials are, questions are being asked of the safety and reliability of external wall insulation. However we must clarify that, although external wall insulation can be classified under cladding, it is very different to rainscreen cladding - which caused the Grenfell fire tragedy.
External wall insulation is completely safe. However, when it comes to fire, the safety of your system depends largely on the insulation type in question. The safest type of insulation you can have installed is the Rockwool insulation boards which are rated as Euroclass A1 non-combustible. The board is specially designed in such a way that it contains fire - preventing it from reaching the other areas of the building. They also do not produce harmful emission or smoke when impacted by fire.
Meanwhile, the Wood Fibre, is also a great insulation which is known to char and not burn. Contrary to many beliefs, it actually burns slowly creating this charring effect which produces an oxygen barrier that helps reduce the spread of fire.
To make your system safer, you can also make use of Fibreglass Mesh for reinforcement. It helps to improve the strength of the tensile which promotes the security of the boards attached to the wall.
Some individuals who have been in the construction department for many years may not be qualified, that is, they may not have undergone an apprenticeship and/or trade certificate courses, but they might still be very skilled at their work. However, anybody can pick up a sledgehammer and demand themselves a builder lacking any skills or training. The wise thing would be to ask the builder coming to your house about what qualifications they have and what training they have undergone.
Licensing of building practitioners
You can now check if your builder or tradesperson is a licensed building practitioner by using an electronic public register which has a record of every registered builder. Being licensed provides you with an assurance that the builder who is about to do your work has proven his shill to the government and earned his right to be a practitioner. If you wish for certain important building and design work on your home it is imperative that you hire a licensed practitioner, the act is very common when you compare the scenario with when you have to call a plumber or an electrician regarding any work.
In order to become a builder in the UK, you must complete an apprenticeship or an NVQ. NVQ is another popular route to becoming a builder. You can also get your NVQ even when you are working as an apprentice. You can also make it based on any recognised overseas qualification.
All associates maintain a Code of Practice and Conduct which sets the standards for all stages of the building procedure. The Code requires builders to:
• Submit quotes on projects for which they have time.
• Securing the contract with a sufficient insurance cover.
• Maintain honesty and integrity at all times.
• Obey the law and industry standards of conduct.
All members of the construction association must also follow a code of conduct. As a consumer, if you think your builder has breached the Code of Conduct or the Code of Ethics, you can file a written against him or her.
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