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Most companies will make the building control application on your behalf and ensure that all the work is completed to the right standards. When a building inspector has inspected it, you’ll get a certificate. It usually takes around 6-8 weeks after completion to come.

Is there a hole in your asphalt driveway you feel you can repair yourself? If it’s something you know you can confidently do then this step by step guide is just for you. If otherwise, then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results while also saving you some time and extra money that could result from possible errors. In this article, we’d go over the reparation process of an asphalt driveway with a hole in it.

✓ Get the necessary tools. You’re going to need a broom ( to clean the area), caulking gun ( to fill the hole), a hand tamp a plate compactor or a hammer ( to level the filled in hole) and a weeding glove (just in case there are weeds growing in the hole).

✓ Prepare the area. Do this by weeding the plants or weeds that might have grown inside the hole and identify your asphalt filler.

✓ Wet your soil, if necessary. It’s important to note that this is only necessary if your soil is dry to help the filler stick properly.

✓ Fill in deep holes. If the hole goes down about 3 to 4 inches or more, simply fill it with any material like rocks, clay etc.

✓ Apply the asphalt filler. Fill the hole with the asphalt filler to about half an inch higher than the surface of the driveway.

✓ Level the filler. For a large hole, make use of a plate compactor or a hand stamp, but a hammer will be sufficient for smaller holes.

✓ Cover the hole, if necessary. If your home isn’t level, covering your hole with a piece of plywood is advisable.

✓ Clean off the seal. After the asphalt looks done and in place, simply brush away the debris from the seal to finish off the project.

Generally, it’s possible to extend a barn conversion, but there are certain conditions that you’ll probably need to meet. Ultimately, it’s up to your local planning office to decide whether to approve your planned barn conversion extension or not.

Typically, small extensions on the side of a barn conversion are often approved, particularly if they serve to preserve the original character of the barn. This could be because the extension will mimic the appearance of the original structure, or house facilities that would look odd in the original building.

However, you probably won’t be allowed to build a larger extension, or one that isn’t in keeping with the appearance of the original barn.

How Much Does A Loft Room Cost

In the event whereby you happen to run out of space in your home and extending sideways or moving out isn’t even a considerable option, the next best solution is to look upwards - the loft. The loft can be converted into a room that can used to satisfy varying purposes, be it a storage room, bedroom, home office, spare bathroom and more. There are a number of loft conversion styles you can go for including a room in loft conversion, dormer style conversion, mansard conversion, or a hip-to-gable conversion. Regardless of your choice, each of the types will not only give you new rooms to enjoy but also add value to your home. However, before getting started, it’s crucial to have an idea of the loft conversion cost to help you prepare a budget and begin planning. Here, you’ll discover the most likely loft room cost for each conversion style you opt for.

• Room In Loft Conversion

This is only suitable for some specific home, but it’s however the most affordable option of the lots. This loft conversion style will cost within the range of £15,000 to £20,000 (prices can be higher in regions where tradesmen are higher in demand such as London and the south east).

• Dormer Loft Conversion

These are relatively simple and straightforward to include in your home. The cost ranges between £31,000 to £58,000 depending on the conversion’s size and other factors.

• Hip To Gable Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is more complex than the aforementioned ones, hence they’re usually more costly to complete. The price ranges between £42,000 to £65,000.

• Mansard Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is the most complex of the lot and includes a complete overhaul of your loft. The price ranges between £45,000 to £70,000.

• Bungalow Loft Conversion

Any of the main styles above can be done to a bungalow if the planning requirements are fully complied with and if the property is suitable. The price ranges between £30,000 to £70,000.

The periods at which noisy work is permitted do vary across the nation because the Control of Pollution Act 1974 provided Local Authorities with the authority to regulate noise from construction sites and similar areas. At the same time as these do differ across unalike councils, the average hours throughout which noisy work is tolerable is usually between 8 am and 6 pm from Monday to Friday. This is usually based on the impression of ‘noisy work’ being carried out, so labours could start earlier to prepare things for the day but then not start carrying out their work until 8 am.

On Saturday’s builders are usually allowed to work between 8 am and 1 pm, but this can differ to some extent with different councils. It does mean that workers can start at the identical time as the rest of the week, but they are generally required to finish a lot prior. On Sundays and Bank Holidays there is not as much of detailed direction on hours, but most councils say that there should be no noisy work taking place. Although these are decent strategies, it is worth examining your Local Authority website as they can change slightly. Noisy work is commonly described as ‘noise audible at the site boundary’ and it may be the case that workers are there outside these hours but are setting up before carrying out noisy work.

Local Authorities also recognise that now and then it is unescapable to work separately to these hours, such as work on railway tracks that must be done when trains are not running. Though, local councils do have the authority to serve an announcement on individuals carrying out building or demolition works and tell them how the work should be carried out to evade a possible lawful noise irritation.

Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!

• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.

• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).

• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.

• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.

• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.

• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.

• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.

• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.

If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.

So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.

• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.

• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.

• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).

• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.

• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.

• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.

• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.

In recent times, more and more home and property owners are starting to come to terms with the large returns and little investment in cavity wall insulation provides. For a relatively little amount you can achieve a lot, from an increase in your home’s energy efficiency and reduction in heating bills to a huge boost in your property’s resale value and lots more. This makes you wonder how an ordinary insulation can help you achieve so much, right? Well, you’re definitely not alone! Several other potential investors are also eager to know exactly how the cavity wall insulation works to deliver all these juicy benefits. In this post, we’re going to go provide you with a detailed insight on how cavity wall insulation works. Let’s take a look!

Typically, cavity wall insulation works as acting as a shield which prevents the escape of heat from your home. It features a reflective surface which serves as a barrier to reflect heat from one side of the panel, effectively minimizing the amount of heat conduction that escapes through. This protection of your home from heat penetration comes with a couple of benefits with the obvious one being an incredible thermal efficiency. An insulated home or property is able to maintain a much more balanced temperature throughout the year – staying a lot cooler during the summer months and retain the heat generated during the winter months. However, a less talked about benefit is the fact that when an insulation is done during the construction of a house, the whole development phase can be completed a lot quicker. This is mainly because insulation offers total protection against weather conditions which enables internal trades to continue without the need to wait for brickwork or cladding to be completed.