Conversion | Loft
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Hannah M
Start Date: Immediate
Stairs installed, loft conversion and boiler moved
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Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Hannah M
Start Date: Immediate
Stairs installed, loft conversion and boiler moved
Stourbridge - DY9
Enquiry from: Stephen G
Start Date: Immediate
Good evening Could you put me on your sub contractor list 4.2 bricklaying contractor fully insured many years commercial and domestic experience Stephen Griffin
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Carl R
Start Date: Immediate
I want to put 8n a downstairs toilet
Stourbridge - DY9
Enquiry from: Neil S
Start Date: Immediate
need a brick fire place to house an existing balanced flu stove fire the fire is already installed and the flue are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how much...
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Yvonne R
Start Date: Immediate
external wall insulation on a 1930's semi. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 bedrooms property age: 1930-70 please call...
Stourbridge - DY9
Enquiry from: Geoff D
Start Date: Immediate
Help to understand what might be possible in converting our lift into a useable office / children’s playroom
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Jon P
Start Date: Immediate
Looking into the option to remove chimney, add gable wall and dorma window to rear, to provide space for bedroom and ensuite?
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: David C
Start Date: Immediate
dormer or hip to gable as our current bedrooms are small. box room will become too small for *** child as she grows up are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached wh...
Stourbridge - DY9
Enquiry from: Freddy W
Start Date: Immediate
loft conversion to create master suite with en-suite. also looking for garage conversion and single story kitchen extension.
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Claire T
Start Date: Immediate
Dormer loft conversion. Loft has trusses but is full length of the house.
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Zoe B
Start Date: Immediate
dorma loft conversion with ensuite are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what are you looking to convert the space into: bedroom/s are you looking to have stai...
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Claire T
Start Date: Immediate
loft conversion with dormer are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what are you looking to convert the space into: living space are you looking to have stairs: yes d...
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Nadine P
Start Date: Immediate
conversion of cellar into a fully usable living space. will need electrics and plumbing for central heating. room approx 3.6x 3.6m thank you are you the property owner: owner of the property property...
Stourbridge - DY9
Enquiry from: Syma A
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
mr requested quotes for building maintenance from a builder around stourbridge. they are considering a couple of projects at the moment.call anytime to arrange appointment to discuss. the information ...
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Sarah R
Start Date: Immediate
hi there, we are looking to convert our garage into half home office and half home gym with the installation of one door and one window. ideally needs to be partitioned into two separate spaces with ...
Stourbridge - DY9
Enquiry from: Lindsey B
Start Date: Immediate
we are wanting a dorma loft conversion 2 bed and an en suite we just want the shell built and plaster boarded and the staircase in and the dormas and windows in... we can do first fix electrics amd pl...
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Gemma G
Start Date: Immediate
loft conversion required on 3 bed semi. hopefully for 2 rooms. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what are you looking to convert the space into: bedroom/s ...
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Gemma R
Start Date: Immediate
Our loft is already converted but doesn’t have a dormer. We would like a dormer put on the back and stairs moved to above our main staircase
Stourbridge - DY7
Enquiry from: Lynn G
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
repair to driveway being lifted by roots are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what level of service do you require: repair to bricks what type of material is your dr...
Stourbridge - DY8
Enquiry from: Alex P
Start Date: Immediate
the auto address is incorrect, my house is on glebe lane. my problem is that the basement wasn't finished. the ventilation hole was just left as a 10cm x 10cm hole. i placed a plastic cover on to mini...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceSand is a very important element in bricklaying as far as a mortar mix is concerned. Generally, the quality of the sand is the major factor determining the quality of a plaster mix or mortar mix. It’s recommended that the sand should have enough ‘fines’ (- 75 micron material) to get a good plastic mix with a water content that’s less than 350 litres/m3. Generally, a mortar mix or plaster mix is made within the range of one bag of cement to 200 to 300 litres of damp sand.
Apart from experience the next best indicator of the quality of sand is a field test. In other words, if you do not have the required training or experience in bricklaying, the best bet to determine the amount of sand for a good quality mix is by carrying out a field test. Let’s have a look!
• Get about 50kg of sand and air dry it.
• Scoop 25kg of the sand, 5 kg of cement as well as litres of water ( with 1 litre and 1.5 litres of the water in different containers).
• Mix the cement and sand to form a smooth, uniform and consistent colour.
• One after the other, mix the the sand - cement mixture in the three quantities of water. Do this until you’re able to achieve a mix that’s workable enough to use as plaster.
With that done, you should take note that if 5 litres of water is sufficient then the quality and quantity of the sand is perfect. If you’d require 6 litres of water to get a mix workable as a plaster, then both the quality and quantity of the sand is average. However, if you’d need 7 litres of water to get a mix workable as a plaster, then the quality of the sand is poor. Any requirement of water above 7 litres implies a very poor quality of sand.
Aside from the cold weather not being the most pleasant condition to work in, the winter weather can also cause a lot of problems for construction workers and even more so when you’re working with render. Poor weather conditions can generally cause a lot of harms on the final finish of a render. Below are some of the reasons why you should not consider rendering in a bad weather.
✓ Lime bloom. Render can be impacted by lime bloom as they are subjected to damp conditions and low temperatures while curing. This is due to the fact that cement are intolerant to slower drying conditions especially immediately affect its application.
✓ Top coats can be compromised. Coating are likely to get washed off before they’re even afforded the chance to set if drying conditions are low.
However, because its cold out there doesn’t necessarily imply that work must stop. It’s very possible to render during the winter months but to avoid potential pitfalls, we’ve got some tip that can be of great help. Let’s have a look!
✓ Check the weather forecast. Determine the drying and curing time and watch the forecast for the temperature dropping at night.
✓ Select the most suitable render. There are renders that are suitable for application in low temperatures to about 5℃ or even as low as 1℃. These types of render are fast setting which makes them perfect for the cold condition.
✓ Watch out for frost. Frost and render are enemies. Therefore, it won’t be wise to work with frosted materials, on frosted subtrates or apply below the recommended temperature that’s written on the product’s datasheet.
✓ Protect the finish. Make use of artificial enclosures around the scaffolding to battle adverse weather conditions.
Is there a hole in your asphalt driveway you feel you can repair yourself? If it’s something you know you can confidently do then this step by step guide is just for you. If otherwise, then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results while also saving you some time and extra money that could result from possible errors. In this article, we’d go over the reparation process of an asphalt driveway with a hole in it.
✓ Get the necessary tools. You’re going to need a broom ( to clean the area), caulking gun ( to fill the hole), a hand tamp a plate compactor or a hammer ( to level the filled in hole) and a weeding glove (just in case there are weeds growing in the hole).
✓ Prepare the area. Do this by weeding the plants or weeds that might have grown inside the hole and identify your asphalt filler.
✓ Wet your soil, if necessary. It’s important to note that this is only necessary if your soil is dry to help the filler stick properly.
✓ Fill in deep holes. If the hole goes down about 3 to 4 inches or more, simply fill it with any material like rocks, clay etc.
✓ Apply the asphalt filler. Fill the hole with the asphalt filler to about half an inch higher than the surface of the driveway.
✓ Level the filler. For a large hole, make use of a plate compactor or a hand stamp, but a hammer will be sufficient for smaller holes.
✓ Cover the hole, if necessary. If your home isn’t level, covering your hole with a piece of plywood is advisable.
✓ Clean off the seal. After the asphalt looks done and in place, simply brush away the debris from the seal to finish off the project.
Garage conversion is a great way to add extra usable space to your home without having to extend your property. A fun fact is that, in the UK if you have your car parked in the garage, you’re in the minority. According to a research carried out by Admiral Loans, just about 33 percent of home owners in the UK store their cars in the garage. For most people the garage is literally a dumping ground that’s never fully utilized as such. In recent times, the garage is now being used to store a variety of other stuffs asides a car which includes garden furniture, tools and appliances, utilities such as washing machine, fridge and freezer as well as food and groceries. These facts show that more and more people are underutilizing their garage when they may actually be in need of more usable space in their property. So why not put into consideration converting the garage into a new space that would be able to serve more purpose?
If you’ve decided to convert your garage, you’d probably want to know the how long the project will take. There are a wide range of factors that can determine the duration of a garage conversion project. These factors include:
• If the foundation needs reinforcing
• If the floors, walls, or roofs are in a bad condition.
• If the ceiling height needs some raising
• If the insulation required in newer builds.
All aforementioned factors will make the garage conversion project take longer than expected. However, in normal situations garage conversions are relatively quick to complete once you start the building works. A single-car conversion will usually take about 3 to 4 weeks to complete depending on the existing garage’s structure.
Driveways usually sink because they haven’t been laid properly. They may not have been dug deep enough, or the installer might not have used the right materials. This will need to be corrected at the earliest opportunity, although in extreme cases, the driveway may need to be completly be relaid.
When it comes to extending a home, the rear of the house often comes to mind a lot more than the front. However, this doesn’t mean that you can’t extend the front of your house. This can be done either as part of a renovation project whereby the entire house is incorporated or it can also be done in isolation. It’s possible to extend the front of your house without the need to apply for a planning permission, however, there are a bunch of limitations you’d have to comply with if you wish to carry out with such a project. Sometimes, this may imply that extending to the front of your home is more tedious and tasking than extending your home’s rear. So exactly how far can you extend the front of your home without planning permission?
The short and simple answer to this question is 2 metres square area with a height not more than 3 metres. Generally, you do not need a planning permission to build a front porch as long as its area doesn’t go beyond 2 square metres from a public road or walkway. Also, a tiled or slated roof can be as much as 4 metres but other roofs must not go beyond 3 metres in height. If you want to extend the front of your home beyond the restrictions specified, then you’ll have to apply for a planning permission.
Extending the front of home can be quite costly, but this can be controlled by not building to the extension to the highest specification, not including an extension on kitchens or bathrooms and more.
In general, you won’t need planning permission to install soundproofing. If you are installing soundproofing against a shared wall, you will usually need to follow the rules and restrictions set out in the Party Wall Act. In listed buildings and conservation areas, there may be extra restrictions on soundproofing.
Typically, loft conversions do not require planning permission except in certain situations. They’re usually covered under what’s known as Permitted Development. Certain building works like loft conversion, rear extension and conservatories are granted planning permission by local authorities. Permitted Development, however, gives you a free range to improve your home without having any issues from the councils or regulations. Before your planned loft conversion can be covered under Permitted Development, there are some certain criteria that must be met. This criteria includes the following:
✓ The extension must not go beyond the existing slope of the roof at the front of the house.
✓ The loft space converted must not go beyond 40 cubic metres in a terraced house.
✓ The roof’s height must not be increased by the extension.
✓ The loft space converted must not reach beyond 50 cubic metres in a detached or semi detached house.
✓ The plan for the extension mustn’t involve structures like balconies, verandas or anything other structures of this nature.
✓ The roof extension should be positioned as far back as possible or at least 20cm from the existing eaves.
✓ The side that faces the window openings should be at least 1.7m beyond the floor and the windows should also be obscured.
✓ The roof extension must not overhang the existing roof or wall of the house.
✓ The materials that are to be used must be similar or the same to the materials that has already been used on the house’s exterior.
However, you should bear in mind that there are some properties that are exempt from Permitted Development. Examples of these type of properties include conservation areas, Areas Of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage sites. Permitted Development does not also provide coverage for listed buildings.
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