Insulation | Loft / Roof
Godstone - RH9
Enquiry from: Chandra M
Start Date: Immediate
There are six apartments in this 18th century building. We are on the top floor - 1600 square feet. Would like to get the apartment insulated
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Godstone - RH9
Enquiry from: Chandra M
Start Date: Immediate
There are six apartments in this 18th century building. We are on the top floor - 1600 square feet. Would like to get the apartment insulated
Godstone - RH9
Enquiry from: Debra G
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the myhouseextension.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Work description: Extend first floor bedroom and make good the roof above which has a dorma in it ...
Godstone - RH9
Enquiry from: Lola B
Start Date: Immediate
Property Type: Semi Detached Have you got a rough idea of the design you would like: Some Ideas How many bedrooms are you looking to have: 3-4 Bedrooms How many storeys are you looking for the proper...
Godstone - RH9
Enquiry from: Lola B
Start Date: Immediate
Property Type: Semi Detached Have you got a rough idea of the design you would like: Some Ideas How many bedrooms are you looking to have: 3-4 Bedrooms How many storeys are you looking for the proper...
Godstone - RH9
Enquiry from: Lorraine C
Start Date: Immediate
We are looking for a company that can help us from start to finish. From the planning and design to laying the last brick. Property Type: Terrace Looking For: Single storey extension Do you have plan...
Crawley - RH10
Enquiry from: Alan S
Start Date: Immediate
Build a garden wall foundations already laid 600mm height x 3.5m long 1 double thickness against earth so concrete blocks can be used at back
East Grinstead - RH19
Enquiry from: Maxwell B
Start Date: Immediate
Hi we are looking to get a feasibility survey for a gabled/box dormer in a first floor roof space in our semi detached house. Ultimately we want to use it for an upstairs wc/toilet.
Crawley - RH11
Enquiry from: Sophie C
Start Date: Immediate
looking for a quote to add ventilation and boarding possible additional beams to loft to increase ventilation and make safe for storage.
Crawley - RH11
Enquiry from: Kirat P
Start Date: Immediate
i have a porche which reuqire repair/replacement so looking for advice/estimate please. thank you.
Reigate - RH2
Enquiry from: Jinny K
Start Date: Immediate
New fence separating to gardens. Possibly my neighbour’s rear fence. Some shrub clearance
Crawley - RH10
Enquiry from: Mohammed A
Start Date: Immediate
i've place an offer on a bungalow and wanted to add another room. will i need planning permission? here is link if you can help https://greenawayresidential.com/property/crw240004-banks-road/ are you ...
Crawley - RH11
Enquiry from: Julie M
Start Date: Immediate
homeowner loft conversion please call to appoint
Crawley - RH10
Enquiry from: James D
Start Date: Immediate
House extention In back or side of garden
Crawley - RH10
Enquiry from: Alex L
Start Date: Immediate
Cavility wall filling with insulation
Crawley - RH10
Enquiry from: Shakil A
Start Date: Immediate
Price for single storey extension 3meters out 2meters high
Crawley - RH10
Enquiry from: Graham H
Start Date: Immediate
We have a raised planter in the driveway and attached to the wall of the house. We would like it paved with pavers to match the drive (grey & buff) and fitted with a drainage system. It is adjacent to...
Dorking - RH5
Enquiry from: Karen P
Start Date: Immediate
customer made an enquiry for building maintenance and confirmed on the quotatis site they would like quotes from a builder.mrs lives in the dorking area and would like a call to discuss options.see be...
Reigate - RH2
Enquiry from: David W
Start Date: Immediate
glass wool insulation of about 85 square metres of a loft and partial boarding are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 do you curr...
Reigate - RH2
Enquiry from: Sugandha T
Start Date: Immediate
raising roof height in 2 bedrooms cost alternatively cost for dormer conversions, the first floor already has velux conversion done. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: ...
Betchworth, Dorking - RH4
Enquiry from: Dan J
Start Date: Immediate
Replacement porch….will need to design, unsure re material etc. need to discuss
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2024 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceThere are many different types of extension. For example, you could install an orangery, flat or pitched roof extension, over-structure extension, single or double storey extension or a glass box extension. Which one of these is most suitable will depend on your existing property.
Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.
If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!
For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.
In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.
Over the years, more and more home and property owners are beginning to realize the huge benefits that can be derived from loft insulation being a worthwhile investment. It’s quite worrisome the way in which energy bills have soared over the past 10 years and loft insulation is a considerable affordable energy efficiency measure that can go a long way to help increase your home’s energy savings.
As far back as the 1980’s, the standard when it comes to insulation thickness was 25 mm to 50 mm which was, at the time, considered to be sufficient. However, building regulations have changed the norm that now states that a new build needs to possess 270 mm of insulation in the loft in order to achieve the required u-value of less than 0.16/m2k based on the standard rock wool or sheep wool insulation.
Generally with loft insulation, there’s a law of depreciating returns which implies that the first couple of insulation centimetres will save you many times the cost of the installation, however an extra layer or centimetre is going to add less value to the point where it’ll no longer be wise or worthwhile to add any further centimetre. Therefore, with cheaper energy prices 30 years back, that additional couple of centimetres was not just worthwhile, but with the recent alarming rises in costs of fuel, that additional £10 savings per year has all of sudden changed to £30 which makes it become a lot more attractive.
If you already have 270 mm of loft insulation, regardless of the material you’re looking to add you’re most likely not going to benefit from a top up. The cost of the materials and installation will definitely be too high for the couple of pounds it’ll save you per year.
Generally, a paved driveway is always subjected to regular usage and yours isn’t likely to be an exception, otherwise you won’t be here. Regular usage automatically necessitates regular maintenance of the driveway in order to extend its lifespan, make your property safer and add more value to it. This maintenance will involve a frequent inspection of the paved driveway so as to identify and repair divots, cracks as well as rutting. Paved driveways usually have a lifespan ranging between 15 to 20 years, but this can only be guaranteed when backed by regular maintenance activities. Failure to provide your paved driveway with a regular maintenance will lead to a rapid deterioration within just a couple of years after installation.
The issues commonly faced by paved driveways is usually different based on several factors such as the weather, your location, your property’s sub base as well as some other elements. The ability to identify the problems and solve or repair them on time is key to success while it’s also save you some time and money. In this article we’re going to look at how to go about do-it-yourself tasks that involves minor cracks. More intense damages are advised to be handled only by professionals.
✓ Prepare the area. Clear the debris, weed the plants or vegetation (if any).
✓ Use a strong spray from a garden hose to wash clean the cracks
✓ In the event whereby the crack is deep, simply fill it until it reach about a quarter inch of the surface with sand.
✓ Tamp down the sand to make it more compact.
✓ Apply a patching compound to the surface of the cracked paved driveway.
✓ Leave it for some time to cure.
✓ Once cured, you can then apply your sealant.
Damp issues on a property are usually generated by a lot of factors such as a poor or broken guttering, condensation and lots more. The question arising here is what is the possibility of External Wall Insulation (EWI) preventing condensation? Not only is EWI a reliable way to reduce condensation-caused damp, but it’s also one of the major reasons property owners in solid wall homes consider thermally rendering or cladding their external walls.
Condensation arises as a result of warm moist internal air hitting a cold surface such as the steaming up of both windows and mirror when having a shower. What happens here is the condensation of the water vapour in the air from a gas to liquid in the process of touching the cold surface - one whose temperature is significantly reduced to reach the dew point. At the dew point, condensation is very rampant, and to tackle this issue you’ll have to heighten the wall temperature in order to convert the moisture to vapour and permit it to pass through the wall. And that’s exactly the job of an external wall insulation!
To get started you must ensure that the walls are clean and dry prior to fitting the external wall insulation. The month of May through to September when the weather tends to be dry and more stable are usually the best period to carry out the project. The external wall insulation will function just like a cosy blanket around the building. Ultimately, changing the feel and temperature of the inside of your home. As a result, the previously cold walls will no longer be cold which goes a long way to mitigate the effects of condensation. Furthermore, when an EWI is installed, the rooms of your home will automatically trap more thermal mass as the heat is saved in the walls’ fabric and released back when the temperature drops.
How To Repair A Pothole In Gravel Driveways
When the integrity of your gravel driveway is impaired not only does it have a negative impact on the curb appeal of your property, but also makes your driveway a danger zone. If your driveway needs to be repaired, you’d simply have to grab the bull by the horn and get it done - the sooner, the better to avoid the problem getting worse and to have your beautiful gravel driveway back as soon as possible.
The major cause of potholes in driveways is usually water, when it gets trapped beneath the surface of the driveway. Therefore, you may also want to enhance the drainage in the area as part of your repair. The repair process is quite simple for confident do-it-yourselfers, but if otherwise, then calling in a reliable professional will save you some time and extra money that can result from possible errors. So how do you repair gravel driveway potholes?
✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing all forms of debris from the pothole. To achieve this, you can rake, shovel or brush the loose stones, soil and other debris from the pothole.
✓ Fill the pot hole. Make use of a coarse gravel to fill up the pothole to a depth of about 3 inches beneath the driveway’s level. Upon the filling, simply tamp down the coarse gravel using a commercial tamper or any available homemade option. Once done, the final 3 inches to the surface of the gravel driveway should then be filled up with gravel which perfectly matches the colour and texture of the remaining driveway.
✓ Compact the patch. To achieve this in an easy and fast way, simply run your car’s wheel up and down over the repaired spot gently a couple of times. This will be enough to compact the patch and seal the pothole.
Do you know about 25 percent of heat that escapes from an uninsulated house are lost through the roof? Fortunately, roof insulation is something that can done by all DIYers irrespective of their experience levels. However, if you happen to lack the confidence necessary to pull off this, then it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and money that could arise from potential cost mistakes. Let’s take a look!
To get started, simply make sure all cracks and gaps in the ceiling are filled using a standard filler or decorator caulk. Once done, clean the gaps in the joists and even to the point of hovering all the dust up. Finally,check for the hazards that can cause you problems before laying the loft insulation.
If you’re considering adding a two storey house extension, then setting a budget for this project would be a great way to get started. Similar to a rear extension, a two storey extension usually leaves the rest of the building needing some work and, due to its size, this may imply the re-development of the entire house - which is why they can be very costly. Some of the other influencing factors that can have big impact on a two storey house extension cost includes: your location, the size of the build, complexity of the design ( anything beyond the standard build will normally require more expertise and time), the glazing to be incorporated ( the more the glass used in the project, the more the material cost), as well as the team used.
Generally, when it comes to extensions, the major part of the expenses will be made on the build of the project. This is because it doesn’t only cover the material cost but also the contractor’s overhead as well as the daily rates. At this stage, the extension prices can be determined by the standard of the work that’s being done.
For a fairly average room size of about 18 square metre, the two storey extension should cost within the range of £2,500 to £3,000 per square metre - with the range being determined by the finishes incorporated. Therefore, a two storey extension of about 18 square metre should cost within the range of £45,000 to £55,000. However, this is with the assumption that there are standard window sizes, bathroom suits are modest, and without any need for any purpose joinery or glazing. If you wish to include all these extra features you’ll also have to pay more to make the total cost between £70,000 to £80,000.
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