Building work | Wall Rendering
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: James N
Start Date: Immediate
Re render of one side of the house due to water ingress and internal leakage. Please contact to view the property and give a quote to fix.
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Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: James N
Start Date: Immediate
Re render of one side of the house due to water ingress and internal leakage. Please contact to view the property and give a quote to fix.
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Chris M
Start Date: Immediate
we have a 1908 bay window which needs repair to its base of frame/sill. it's about 2m long. it's not a listed property, nor in a conservation area, but we'd like it to be done sympathetically to conse...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: James Y
Start Date: Immediate
full loft conversion of new build house. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what are you looking to convert the space into: bedroom/s are you looking to have sta...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Lynn F
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the home owner of that property? yes Are you replacing an existing porch or is this a new build? New Build What material do you require, UPVC? UPVC What colour do you want it to be? Unsure I a...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Lynn F
Start Date: Immediate
Conservatory roof insulation Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached Property Age: 1930-70 Please call to appoint
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Lynn F
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Bedrooms Property Age: 1930-70 Interested in quote for cavity wall and loft insulation...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Susan B
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Customer visited the myloftconversionprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Property owner: Owner, Looking to convert into: Bedroom, Work description: To convert loft s...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Lee H
Start Date: Immediate
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Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Paul W
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
We have the old foam in are cavity is there anyway to remove and fill a more effective one Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached How many bedrooms do you have...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Steve G
Start Date: Immediate
Raise the flat roof and replace with tiled one. Convert garage into a small shower room and toilet and knock through from bedroom. The garage is attached to a bungalow.
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Vicky B
Start Date: Immediate
Single story extension 4.6m x 10.8m. Block walling, flat roof, 2 x roof windows, one wall will be full windows and doors
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Peter T
Start Date: Immediate
Single storey extension to rear of bungalow to enlarge bedroom and incorporate an en-suite shower room with wc. Size approximately 3m x 4.7m with hipped roof to match style of bungalow. Also some inte...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Jackie B
Start Date: Immediate
Bungalow nUnsure whether I have cavity wall insulation but bungalow gets very cold - Approx Date: 19/01/2016 - Type of Property: Other - Purpose of Request: Find and Pick Are you the property owner: O...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Karen B
Start Date: Immediate
I run a small 12 bedroom hotel and 2 of the guest rooms underneath the water tank system are experiencing noise everytime the tank starts to fill up. I am now consistently getting complaints from gues...
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Graham W
Start Date: 3+ months
single storey rear extension Homeowner Will need assistance with planning permission Plans will need to be drawn up Please contact to appoint
Wellington - TA21
Enquiry from: Richard P
Start Date: 3+ months
Architectural firm on behalf of client New 3-bed detached property Please contact to appoint *
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2024 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceMost companies will make the building control application on your behalf and ensure that all the work is completed to the right standards. When a building inspector has inspected it, you’ll get a certificate. It usually takes around 6-8 weeks after completion to come.
In general, you won’t need planning permission to install soundproofing. If you are installing soundproofing against a shared wall, you will usually need to follow the rules and restrictions set out in the Party Wall Act. In listed buildings and conservation areas, there may be extra restrictions on soundproofing.
Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.
Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.
In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.
With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.
External Insulation Installation
lRender Test
• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.
• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.
• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.
lPipework Adjustment & Removal
• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting
• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.
lWindow Protection
• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.
lStarter Track Fitting
• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).
• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.
lInsulation Boards Fitting
• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.
• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.
• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards
lMechanical Fixing Inclusion
• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.
• This is to secure the insulation boards.
lBeading Fitting
• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.
lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition
• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.
lPrimer Application
• Paint on the primer
lFinal Render Application
• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.
lPipework Re-installation
• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.
Patios do not require lots of maintenance. They will only need occasional cleaning to make sure that the material keeps its original appearance. It's always best to clean your patio with a pressure washer and occasionally tap each slab or brick just to check the sand underneath hasn't washed away.
If you’re about to start your house extension project and wondering how long it’ll take to complete, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions that’s asked by homeowners in the UK and across the globe. However, there’s no single precise answer for this as there are multiple factors that’ll affect the length of time it’ll take to complete your home extension. These factors include the size of the construction work as well as whether you’re planning to live in the house after completion or otherwise.
For a single extension, the length of time it’ll take to complete the home extension is normally up to 3 months. So let’s break this down:
As you would have expected, the first step to be taken is the preparation of the site. You start by digging out the footing and preparing the foundation which should take about 2 weeks. This is then followed by the damp course installation as well as the fitting of any drains needed around the extension which will also take a further 2 weeks.
The 5th week will be for the construction of the external walls as well as putting the blockwork in place for the provision of the cavity wall insulation. A further 2 weeks after this, will be dedicated to the installation of the roof structure and the internal walls.
It’s at this junction that you’ll call on your weather proof installer to fit in your uPVC windows and doors. Once done, the gas fitters and electricians will have to be on site to connect power to your new extension building. Subsequently, this will be followed by internal wall plastering as well as breaking through your main house. Once the plaster is dried, decorations completed and all the required furniture and units installed, the extension is ready for use.
If you’re considering adding a two storey house extension, then setting a budget for this project would be a great way to get started. Similar to a rear extension, a two storey extension usually leaves the rest of the building needing some work and, due to its size, this may imply the re-development of the entire house - which is why they can be very costly. Some of the other influencing factors that can have big impact on a two storey house extension cost includes: your location, the size of the build, complexity of the design ( anything beyond the standard build will normally require more expertise and time), the glazing to be incorporated ( the more the glass used in the project, the more the material cost), as well as the team used.
Generally, when it comes to extensions, the major part of the expenses will be made on the build of the project. This is because it doesn’t only cover the material cost but also the contractor’s overhead as well as the daily rates. At this stage, the extension prices can be determined by the standard of the work that’s being done.
For a fairly average room size of about 18 square metre, the two storey extension should cost within the range of £2,500 to £3,000 per square metre - with the range being determined by the finishes incorporated. Therefore, a two storey extension of about 18 square metre should cost within the range of £45,000 to £55,000. However, this is with the assumption that there are standard window sizes, bathroom suits are modest, and without any need for any purpose joinery or glazing. If you wish to include all these extra features you’ll also have to pay more to make the total cost between £70,000 to £80,000.
Windows or lightwells can be a great way to introduce natural light into your basement, making it a more valuable, enjoyable space. However, they’re not always an essential requirement.
It’s important for your basement conversion to meet ventilation and fire safety building regulations. Windows can be a good way to do this, but they’re not the only option. Stack or mechanical ventilation, or ensuring that stairs up from your basement connect to an exit can be a good alternative.
So, while windows can be a great asset to your basement conversion, if you can’t afford them or they’re not structurally feasible, you can still create a basement conversion without them.
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